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osutodd

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About osutodd

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  1. Paint sounds expensive, but 2 oz. paints a lot of baits. Even for doing a full white base coat, I only use 5 to 8 drops per bait, depending on bait size. And I still end up shooting some into my waste jar. It ends up being one of the least expensive items once you are stocked up. Blanks, clear-coats, and hooks will all set you back way more than the paint.
  2. For your first baits, use Devcon 2 Ton. There is a ton of information here about it - what people like and don't like. The reason I suggest this for your first baits is that it is the low cost, and that it's easy to find, and the finished product is high quality. There also isn't a lot of equipment needed to do a few at a time. Some other clear coats require turners, UV lamps, or special storage. It wouldn't be my choice if I were doing hundreds of baits, but getting started it is a great option. Do a few baits, and if it's something you will stick with, then get a turner and start exploring other options.
  3. osutodd

    CEMENT SEALERS

    I still have some but I don't use it for top coat anymore. I have found that if I leave two baits coated in concrete sealer touching each other after a while they lightly stick together. My boat is kept in the garage, and it gets pretty hot out there in the summer, so that's part of the problem. But I had two others stick together over the winter as well. They were sitting in a bowl on the workbench for four or five months months. It's not a major sticking problem, but it's enough to keep them stuck together when picking one of them up. A light tug separates them, and it doesn't seem to leave a mark any more significant than a little flat spot. Just more than I want to deal with.
  4. I'm using a concrete sealer, but it's a brand that's no longer available. Wouldn't surprise me if it's still for sale under a different brand name. I like it because I can dip baits and hang them. The one downside to it is that it seems to take a couple of weeks to cure fully. It's dry to the touch overnight, but if you leave two fresh baits touching in the box, they'll stick together a bit. I haven't tried any of the MCUs but will when I run out of the current stuff.
  5. I like your work. So much of this is personal preference - the real standard is whether you got what you were trying to get. Often I paint something that friends all say it's beautiful, but I'm not happy because it wasn't what I was trying to do. As an example, on your bluegills, I would have brought the color from the back down further onto the shoulders. That's how most commercially painted baits are. But maybe you were trying to get one with less of the back color and more of the side color. But they look great! If I were doing a "sexy shad" style bait, I would have used a stencil for the stripe and made it thinner. But I like what you have done with this one. I might have to try that sometime. It's a little wider stripe, but less defined at the edges. Keep going. It can be addicting.
  6. osutodd

    Smallmouth colors

    At times, bubblegum is magic. But most of the time for me, it's tough to beat a craw pattern with just a touch of chartreuse added somewhere.
  7. Same here. When dipping baits, I dip once, and then sprinkle on glitter. I use salt shakers to do this, and put tape over most of the holes. I learned that when putting glitter on, I tended to apply too much. I taught myself to stop at about half of what I think looks right. After the first dip is mostly dry, I dip a second and third time.
  8. The only way I have ever gotten fluorescent paints to look really bright is with a base coat of white. But, I have wondered if without a base coat they look brighter to fish than to us, since they see more into the UV portion of the spectrum than we do. I have a craw pattern that I paint fluorescent orange dots over dark green without a base coat. They look sort of orangish-brown, and not bright at all. But the smallmouth still eat it.
  9. That trycolors.com is a pretty cool tool. I messed around with it and got a few ideas to try on some colors I never could get exactly how I wanted. I did notice that it doesn't quite match my experience in how some colors overpower another with airbrush paints, but it still helps figure a new direction to try. One shade of brown I want, I never thought about adding blue, but after messing around with this, that's my next step. In my experience, red changes yellow a lot more than it does with the simulator. Ratios also seem to be a little different with black and yellow. Thanks for the link!
  10. I glued in 3/4 inch sections of poplar dowel rod and put screw eyes into that. When we were pulling them apart to test it, the screw eyes were opening up before they puled out. We were well over 80 lbs before anything ever failed with that method.
  11. Green pumpkin is pretty dang ugly, but fish like it. They might like your ugly scales.
  12. I have a bait similar to that color I did just messing around . never caught anything on it though ! Finally got to see what color I used. It was Createx fluorescent green, with just a tiny bit of black to tone it down , sprayed very lightly.
  13. Looks to me like just transparent green on a clear body. Maybe a chartreuse belly. The marbling effect is just the light reflecting differently over the shape of the bait .
  14. Just experimenting with different techniques, I discovered the glue/epoxy is usually stronger than the wood, and sometimes even stronger than the eyes.
  15. Is the scale pattern molded in or painted?
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