Les Young

Glenn, i cut the grooves in the tubes of the ukranian injector & changed o rings to some caterpillar o rings a guy i work with had that had just a tad less thickness & it's easy now to remove the tips. Thanks for the picture of yours.

Thanks for letting us know.

Hm. I don't know what could be causing that then. Sorry i couldn't help.

Basstackle every time. I have one of the ukraine 4 ounce twin injectors with blending block that i'd sale cheap, but you'd have to put new o rings in it & probably make a notch to remove the ends like Musky Glenn did his.

I just click on the individual pics & they open.

Some plastic soaks up more oil then others. Worm oil is a plastisizer which is added to a synthetic resin to add flexibility etc. so it naturally soaks into baits made with it. Kind of the nature of the beast. You can always apply more right before you use them although the oil will wash off when you fish them.

Has anybody used it instead of medium & what did you think? I’m talking for stuff like brush hogs, worms, jig trailers, ned rig baits etc. pretty much using it for everything as a replacement for the medium. Thanks

Jazzatomo, , 3 cm outer diameter & 3 mm thickness is what he said.. This is for the 120 ml dual injector.I'm going to try some o rings at work so we'll see what i come up with. If the guys i work with have the right size silicone o rings that's what i'm going to try.

Glenn, that would definitely work. I talked to the manufacturer ( authentic handmade) & he says the o rings are pushing it on size so that the ends don't come off very easy & told me the exact size he uses so i'm trying replacing them first. If that doesn't satisfy me i'll be doing that. I don't use it since i have a single 6 ounce basstackle & also a basstackle twinjector, but figured if i cured it i'd let another member have it real cheap to help them out if anybody was interested. Thanks

Most plastic has to get to around 350 to fully cook. You'll more than likely have to let it cool a little to where the plastic will build on your dipping rods depending on how thick you want the walls on your first dip. If heating in a microwave different colors will get thinner then others so you'll have to worry about usability more so than temp after the initial heating until it's gets to cool to use. You'll get it pretty quick with a little experimentation. Sorry for the way i replied as far as actual temp info, but this is just what i found when dipping tubes myself. I never use a thermometer after i have a pretty good handle on what my microwave takes to get to temp, but definitely recommend one until you get yours down pat.

Angling ai has a tail cutter that you hit with a hammer. I have a home made cutting press kind of modeled after lurecrafts tail cutting press that i cut tube tails with. Works good, but i doubt would be of much use on something that small. I've cut tails on a lot of different baits including ned rig baits & it worked great.

Interesting. Thanks OIR. I always look at your threads & videos because you show some neat stuff.

Side imaging definitely will not be use less in an 8 foot deep river. Although i realize that this isn't deep what about scanning when idling up or down river & finding a huge school that you wouldn't have saw otherwise? It's also good for finding brush piles, rock piles etc. I have side & down imaging at the console & trolling motor both & wouldn't have it any other way. Humminbird units are pretty easy to maneuver through. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one if i were you & if you get another boat you can also move it to it. I have an old humminbird 798 ci si that is loaded with hours at the console that i've had on an old sprint boat, an h-56 Xpress, a Dyna Trak 180 STE & now i have it on my 2003 Stratos 18XL that i've had for almost 6 years. This 798 has a bunch of hours on it, but it's been flawless. I use it for running, but do use it for scanning for bait & fish. Works real good when striper fishing in spring at night. I run a helix 9 up front & split screen 2d, down imaging & maps sometimes too. I absolutely wouldn't hesitate to purchase the unit i was interested in. They'll do so much more then tell depth & water temps.

What about Baitjunkys or angling ai? I know Baitjunkys make a big one.

Mark, l've been meaning to try the pam deal because i've saw you post on using it a lot. I have a pint bottle that's like a colorant bottle that i keep a little worm oil in it. When my injector just starts to tighten up i give them a shot & then squirt it back into the bottle. The o rings in the original basstackle injector that i bought when i first started are still in great shape after all this time & i have shot a lot of molds with it. Both decks on my stratos 18XL are literally coverd with baits not to mention the tackle wall in the garage right now. Lets don't talk about the storage compartments in the boat. lol

Thanks guys, i figure it's o ring related so i'm gonna see what i can come up with to try to cure it You can use it, but it's just really hard to clean out & put the tips back on. I don't use it since i got the basstackle twinjector from Frank anyway. If not what have i lost ?

Good job. That's the thing about this site is that somebody knows how to do anything you want when it comes to making lures & they don't care a bit to help with any problems a person has.

Just wondering, but could a person not lay a sheet of metal on it & get a flat back?

Yes they are.

Apdriver, i was thinking i'd try the oring first.

After learning the safety part of it & starting to make lures write every recipie down on every lure you make even if in the same colors because thickness of plastic will make appendages look totally different between different lures. If you use sand cast or artificial stone molds you may also need to tweek recipies to get the look you want. Although there is a learning curve it's actually easy after you get the concept down. Another pointer is have fun & take your time when buying molds so you'll get exactly what you want because it can get expensive real quick like. Ask about anybody here that's been at it a while.

I liked it when we could get it in 1 gallon jugs from you Leonard & don't want to deal with 5 gallon buckets or i'd order some myself because i sure liked it.

First off i have a basstackle twinjector & a single 6 ouncer too, but I also have a Ukranian twin injector too that after shooting is extremely hard to remove the tips after shooting. It's almost like the actual tube could be contracting while cooling off after shooting. I thought about trying different orings since they look like standard black orings. I also thought about taking a chain saw file & making a small groove in each tube to see if that helps. You litterally have to strain really hard to remove them & have to push against the bench to put them back on. I'm just wanting to see if i can cure it because i'm not going to use it & thought if there was a safe way to cure it that i may possibly let another member here that's interested in making laminates have it really cheap since i don't use it anyway. Any suggestions? Thanks

Joel, i just looked & Curt has a more plain style 3 & 4inch, but if you'll look in the lower left corner you'll see a 3 " with fins etc. that looks pretty good. Another thing about Curt is his stuff is usually very affordable too.

Joel, send Curt at enforcer a message. I was just reading something the other day about goby molds he was getting ready to put on his site.