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wallyc14

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About wallyc14

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  1. Forgot to add that the heads are dipped to hold the eyes. As said above dipped at 340 degree plastic
  2. The top pick is clear coated with sb clear . No technically you don’t have to clear with sb clear and it holds up ok however I do give it a coat of clear to make it hold up better . The bottom pic are dipped in plastisol . When i mix powders in with sb clear I don’t clear over it . It holds up fine. Another side note:-) you can also add Color for plastisol to sb clear to get colors sb does not make ( see second pic) those are colors I made. What I generally do when I dip baits is get the plastic to about 340 then dip . The plastic is about as thin as it will get. I also agree I don’t like super thick baits but sometimes the fish like it! :-)
  3. I’ve had great success with the lureworks sb coat yes it is solvent based and it does smell but it’s no worst than the cooking plastic imho. Paint and hit with a sb clear coat and no need to dip. On a side note you can also do a lot of cool looking effect with sb clear coat and the pearl powders for making soft plastics .
  4. Yes 50/50 split for the most part , however you can play with the temps of your color and it will effect the split . Hotter color will overpower the cooler color. The only problem is its hard to be consistent .
  5. Above is all good info and let me add my 2ct worth with some colors such as chartreuse or florescence you need to cook the plastic with the colorant added to cold plastic or some color tend to chaulk and not be as vivid as it should be. Me personally I use a thermometer for gauging the temp it guarantees my consistency .With that said you can judge it by looks with time under your belt but , it is best practice to use a thermometer . You can get close by judging but you don’t want to find out the hard way you were 10 degrees under target temp and your baits start doing weird things and you waste your hard earned money and time on baits that end up in the trash . Also welcome to the fold ! There’s a lot of good info here and it will save you a lot of foible in the long run. tight lines!
  6. +1. It’s about what you like.Yes there is a difference in brands for the most part. Here again it’s what works for you. I hate to sound so cryptic but it really is that simple . Just one thing to remember have fun!!
  7. Frank is spot on . That’s the Easiest way I have found to do it. Really makes a difference when doing lams. And keeping two cups warm for multiple shots on one heating.
  8. Best practice is to ask for bait samples, it will keep you from buying a bunch of molds you don’t use .
  9. Your colors will change when you add flake . Watermelon green will turn brown when you add red flake.
  10. Thanks for posting your solution :-)
  11. I don’t recommend cooking indoors , but you should get a respirator and a couple of fans to move the fumes outdoors. Breathing the fumes is NO BUENO . I use as exhaust hood I made to get the fumes out of my work space.
  12. I agree with all that’s said above and add : 1- Heat stabilizer is a good thing on reheats you need it and a little raw plastic with that said to much is a bad thing it’ll make your baits stink and it will turn your plastic a yellowish color. 2- when using hardner you should add heat stabilizer if your using paste type. If your using the hardner from MnF you don’t need to . My preference is paste type hardner. 3: when using softner I don’t use heat stabilizer . How much is to much? Reheats of 4 oz of plastic with a little raw plastic added 4 drops of heat stabilizer works for me . 4 oz of raw plastic a table spoon of hardner and a 1/2 teaspoon heat stabilizer
  13. Check out lureworks . Sb coat they are solvent based but you can do all kinds of stuff with it . I use the clear with the same colorants and pearls as the ones for making baits. Then hit it with a coat of clear.
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