markbxr400
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Everything posted by markbxr400
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I then use Durham's water putty to fill the remaining hole, and file/sand to shape.
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I drill and glue in the small (1/32 oz or 1/16 oz) bullet shaped worm weights along the bottom of my lures. I space them as needed to get the best orientation and action in the water.
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Good idea. Just started turning, carving and painting my own River Runts and Vamps. Search "Carving the face of a river runt" to see my tutorial. Search my gallery, or search on the hard baits gallery for "runt" to see the accompanying pictures. Each pic also has a description of that step. Thanks to everyone who have and are contributing to my learning. Mark
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I went ahead and took pictures of each step in my process and posted them in the gallery in the hard baits section. Each pic has a description of the process. You can find them by searching for "runt" or looking in my gallery (member name "markbxr400"). While there seems to be quite a number of steps, the whole process takes me less than 5 minutes per lure, and I get fairly consistent results from lure to lure. These lures dive well, and action is very good. I've caught dozens of speckled trout and redfish on these. I hope this helps. Mark
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The finished lure after painting and epoxy. -
Final product. -
wrap a piece of cloth type sandpaper around a dowel, and smooth the two sides of the nose. -
This is what the nose looks like after the rasp. -
Another pic of using the rasp to smooth and final shape the nose. -
Using a rounded rasp (I use a Dragon file), lightly continue to shape and smooth the two sides of the nose. -
Profile view of carved nose. -
This is how the nose looks after carving. -
Now, using the bent skew chisel, continue working the two sides of the nose to the new top centerline. -
Redraw the top centerline along the new flat area just created in the last step. -
Using your chisel, carve right down the top line to start creating a curve nose. -
Continue carving until you achieve carved sides that meet the two lines that are 90 degrees away from the top line . -
Using a bent skew carving chisel, start along the 1" line one either side of the top line and start removing material. Move from side to side to keep the two sides symmetrical. -
Runt blank inserted into soft jaw vise, ready for carving. -
view of the marked lines from the nose. -
Drill hook eyelet hole at intersection of two lines on bottom of lure. Drill weight holes if adding weights. -
Marking a turned blank for a river runt nose. Mark line along lure every 90 degrees. Mark a line around the lure 1" from nose. -
I try not to over think this. I tend to lose lures, so I don't get too hung up on them having to last forever. I'll usually knock out a dozen at a time. I use Minwax sanding sealer - dip the lure, use a wire or disposable Oral-B dental brush dipped in the sanding sealer to work it in all the hardware holes. I probably dip each one for 2-3 minutes. I'm more interested in making sure I have the sealer in the holes thoroughly, rather than the exterior. I let them dry about 12-24 hours, lightly sand and start my painting. After painting and installing eyes and hardware, I coat with a single coat of E-Tex, and turn 4 lures at a time for 8 hours on a simple rotisserie. I let them dry 48 hours total, clean up the eye hooks, install the rings and hooks and go fishing. I notice you don't have a rotisserie - Lowes is clearing them out for $22 now. I just screwed two 1x4 boards about a foot long standing up off a 3rd 1x4 board about 30-36" long (depends on the rotisserie you get). Mount the rotisserie, add 8 alligator clips, one to each rotisserie prong, and then use wire and a rubber band to mount the lures to the alligator clips.
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I've not noticed any shrinkage. I fill the hole completely, and just proud of the surface of the lure. Once dry, I use a small file to shape the filled area back to the surface, then sand. Once I've sealed and painted, I can no longer tell it was ever drilled/filled. It's a pretty quick and effective way for me. Mark
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I have been using Durham's Water Putty. Mix a little of the powder in a small cup with water to a putty consistency, spread it in, let it dry, file and sand it off. Waterproof when dry.
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I bought the vise to build a replica Martin OM acoustic after retiring. Amazing the things these vises can hold throughout the process without the jaws messing up the piece.