Wadeeng

Every Menard's store carries it..

Right or wrong, this is what I've been doing and I have had excellent results with great durability. All I use is Createx and Dick Nite. I always dip my baits in acetone and let them air dry. Never touch or wipe them down! Apply your paint, and as noted above, many lite coats with proper drying time in between. I then dip my baits in pledge and let dry overnight. Apply your final sealer coats after that, and your rock solid.

Ben, thank you for the feed back. Can you offer any comments as to the suggested ratio of acetone to S-81?

I've been using the MCU S-81 for some time now and have always applied it by dipping or brushing with great results. Last week I attempted to spray the product with one of my Iwata "cup style" air brushes.At first it sprayed great but after a bit the product began to dry and get stringy as it existed the airbrush. I never used a reducer because I was spraying a small amount. What am I doing wrong?

All Menard's stores carry that pledge product, that's were I get it.

My copper blades are finish coated, unlike my other blades. I've been thinking that is the cause? For some reason the paint is bleeding and fanning out. I've always used the S81 as well. It's great stuff. Thanks for the insight,

Looking for a little feedback on a couple problems I'm having. I'll briefly discuss my methods: 1. I'm wondering why I almost always experience MCU penetrating my paint on my "copper blades" and not not any others? I use same process with all types and let dry days, sometimes weeks before clearing. If i pre-dip in pledge I never have a issue. I always sterilize my hard baits and blades by dipping in acetone first. 2. When dipping a deep cup blade in MCU, how do you get every bit of the product off the bottom of the back side? I pat it with a foam brush, but I'm kind of a picky when it comes to quality. 3. If you spray MCU on a blade, do you flip the blade and spray the back, or only spray the side you have painted?

I keep a mason jar of acetone and quickly dip the lure, and then hang to dry. Don't touch or wipe the lure. I've never had adhesion troubles and it cleans all the impurities from the bait.

Sorry for the mistake on my post moments ago, I meant to write .020" not .20". As for my setup, I went to a local paint shop and purchased a new/ unused 5 gallon paint can and had them crimp and seal the lid. I also purchased a adapter nozzle from Home Depot that is specifically for my vacuum brand, cut a hole in the bottom and siliconed it on place. I placed a couple dowels in the interior of the can so the suction pressure would not indent the can. Few holes in the top and it works great for me. I tape one corner of my stencil material as it is placed on top of my bait. From there I heat it until it conforms to my bait. I keep a sharpened pencil near by to coax the tight corners and to also bring out the scales patters on the bait. I also let the vacuum run for a few seconds to cool the material before releasing it.

I use the .20" thick material and I purchase it from Carl Sievering. You get 8 square feet for $10.00. You can reach Carl at Carl@greenhills.net. It's also available in larger sizes. The product works great for me.

Are you adding this product to your paints or just the clear coat?

When a bait is cleared or complete regardless of the final method, do you loose some of the glow properties or intensity?

Does anyone have any information or feedback on the Createx UV glow paint. I'm wondering what your results have been? I'm thinking abut trying it out.

Bob: what kind of foil do you use?

I'm having a problem finding a source where I can purchase in-line "lead" trolling weights by bulk? I'm looking for the minnow body style, and unfinished. Any pointers out there...