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FrogAddict last won the day on January 26

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About FrogAddict

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    Grand Forks, ND
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  1. Thank you for the fluxing advice!

    Interesting read LimpNoodle. sawdust seems like the best solution but wax will probably suffice for my needs.
  2. Thank you for the fluxing advice!

    The guy that I received the original advice from said that when you set it on fire it works much better. but you have to stir when its on fire to bring the impurities to the surface. He's a metals guy who explained it much better than I can. It basically carbonizes that impurities I believe. I'll try to find the original thread and post it here. Here it is, sagacious is the one who gave me the great advice!
  3. Best crappie mold with tail mold

    yeah, the picture is a 3.5 inch swim bait I make but the idea is the same. I'm still working on a 1 inch version for crappie. It's hard to get the right action with such a small lure. I'm on version 3 now. Still looking for perfection or at least close. I fished a 1 inch boot tail/swim bait last year for crappie and it worked great! I just ripped it and let if fall. The crappie mostly hit on the fall.
  4. Thank you for the fluxing advice!

    Thanks for the replies fellas! APdriver, I use paraffin wax now. I started with some old birthday candles but they didn't work that well. They would burn for a moment but then go out. Oh, here's a tip I forgot to mention in my original post. If you keep your fan on at low speed when you light your smoke, it'll keep the flames going for a longer period of time which helps carbonize the gunk (technical term). One more thing, I bought my lead from Rotometals but I went through Amazon. The price was about the same shipped and I needed it quick so it all worked out.
  5. Thank you for the fluxing advice!

    I just started pouring lead and I was a bit concerned with the impurities in the lead I was using. I jumped on good old TU and found some great advice on using wax and lighting the smoke on fire to clean the lead. Now I can't remember who posted it but it sure worked wonderfully! Thank you whoever you are! This site has been so helpful in getting my small tackle business off the ground (Crow Wing Lures). It seems every time I run into an issue, the answer is only a TU search away. I'm not making much money yet but I'm sure enjoying myself! Thank you to all the TU contributors that are generous with their knowledge and wisdom!
  6. Injector nozzle adapter

    I had the same issue, I just drilled it out as someone else mentioned.
  7. Best crappie mold with tail mold

    Grady, A boot tail is the flat tail (see attached picture). I have the 1.5 inch stinger btw.
  8. Replacement hook Arky jig

    Just an FYI, I have the same mold and recently modified it to take the 32796 hook. It wasn't too difficult or I just got lucky. I just used my dremel and went through a couple burr type bits. My advice is to take it slow and steady. Check for fit often. You don't want to take too much material around the hook eye or you'll end up with lead seeping into the hook eye and that will just piss you off.
  9. Painting dots

    I use the other end of the disposable paint brushes I buy from Wally World. Since they taper to a point, I just cut them off about where I want them. I then sand them a bit to make sure the end is flat and dip them into craft paint. On my roundhead jigs, I hit them with a bit of solarez once they dry. It's a bit of a hassle so I may look into those Component Systems Quick Coat Lure Markers that SmallJaw mentioned.
  10. Jig tying Vise

    I also own a Griffin Odyssey Spider vice and highly recommend it. I love that it holds the smallest of trout flies all the way up to 5/0 jig hooks. just clamp it down and tie until your wife wonders what happened to you!
  11. Best crappie mold with tail mold

    I personally like the Stinger from BassTackle as well. I have been working on a 1 inch boot tail for Crappie as well. Those little baits are a real son of a you-know-what to work with though.
  12. Injecting detailed molds

    In my experience every mold has it's own personality. I have considered putting the "directions" for shooting a particular mold on the mold itself (laminating first) but I haven't done it yet. I have molds that are very forgiving and others that require me to hold the pressure for 20 seconds etc. Some molds are just fickle. I had to cut vents in my Croaker molds from Do-It to get complete feet. I have a craw mold that will get dents in the claws unless I shoot it fast and hold pressure for dang near 30 seconds. As discussed previously, plastic temp. is also an important factor. Some of my molds shoot better cooler and others are almost impossible to shoot cool (310-320 degrees is what I consider cool). Oh, and if you change any variables along the way like plastic type, increasing the amount of glitter etc., the whole learning curve starts again! Not trying to scare you off. Just enjoy the ride!
  13. Tube Dipping - Video

    Great videos Joel, thanks for sharing!
  14. Do you still have the 4 cavity BJ 7.5 inch worm mold for sale for $50?

  15. Making Own Silicon Strands - Is this possible?

    I once saw someone cut open a bungie cord and use the white strands inside as a skirt, does that count?