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JimP

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JimP last won the day on January 10

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About JimP

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  • Location
    Northern West Virginia
  • Interests
    Fishing, woodworking, and out door stuff in general. I have been making lures since I was a kid, started off tying flies.

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  1. Good deal! Thanks for the reply, now we all know that warming the ETex will return it to a usable form.
  2. Mark, Too bad you pitched the hardened portion, I have read about but never actually tried this. The hardened material in the bottle can be returned to liquid state just by warming the bottle in warm water. At that point it should be good to go for another extended time period. Has anyone done this?
  3. JimP

    Bobbin ?

    Les: Yes they are a necessity. You will end up with several bobbins. I have some expensive bobbins with tension adjustments and ceramic tubes but I like the dirt cheap no frills the best. They all are adjustable tension just by over flexing the legs apart or together to get the tension you want. Something like this will work fine for a lifetime of tying for under $10. You can always get a couple more when you find the "got to have that" model. Most of all have fun tying.
  4. I'm buying the factory made foam blocks. Same material just bypassing the mixing stage. Problem with my process is that the material in sheet form is the expense and availability. Expensive to buy and everyone wants to sell full sheets which makes shipping beyond reason. I'm very curious about your 8 pound foam. It's on the light side but I think it will work since it will be topped with a rigid topcoat. When you get something built with that resin love to know how it works out. Thanks
  5. Are you forming blocks and then carving or pouring into a mold. I have done it both ways and seem to like carving from block better. The material is more consistent where the mixed and poured varies from pour to pour, at least that's how I remember it. The 8 pound sounds a little fragile for crank baits. Did the 8 pound hold up for you?
  6. Goolies, which foam are you working with? Mac and I are referring to HDPU (High Denesity Polyurethane), if that is what you are using I have seen the pin hole that becomes visible after the first primer coat. If that is your problem try a thinned out dip into Zinsser Bulls Eye 123. A bright white shellac product that dries quick and seals well. Just decant some into a pint or quart size jar and thin it down to water consistancy with DNA then dip, and rotate. A quick brush sanding between coats should solve your problems.
  7. JimP

    Bottle openers

    great idea,
  8. Mac: Get back with me when you make it home and we can exchange some notes. Thanks! Jim P
  9. Mac: I have been making crank baits from block HD foam for a while and love the stuff. Having played with 20 - 30 pound per cubic foot materials and find the lighter weight materials best suited for lures. The only downside is cost and availability. I have been shaping and cutting weight pockets, wire tracks and lips slots with a CNC. Works very well. Can you tell me your source and details about the foam you are using? I will respond in kind. Respond here or PM your choice. I. would prefer here to benefit other makers, that's what this site is for. Thanks,
  10. Big fan of water base products here. Go to a craft store (or Amazon, I have seen "Fusion in fly shops also) and buy a small bottle of "Liquid Fusion" fill one of the small dispenser bottles from a fly shop about one third of "Fusion" and top off with water. The "Fusion is so thick that it will take about a day to mix thoroughly with the water. (adjust the ratios to suit you) You have a life time supply in a four ounce bottle that will not dry out or thicken unless you do not cap it at all. Provides fairly quick drying water proof shiny tie offs to flies or jigs. Good all purpose glue also. No fumes at all.
  11. Here you go: Axis Outdoor Products 210-845-7456
  12. If you are top coating with an epoxy consider no glue or a non-epoxy glue in the lip slot. Your first topcoat will completely encapsulate the lip/lure junction with epoxy and capillary action will draw a considerable amount into and around the lip. Your second topcoat layer will build a nice fillet around the lip/lure junction providing more strength. I have made several musky lures without any epoxy added to the lip slot, just a friction fit to the painted lure body, then topcoat. So far no problems with 40+ inch Musky and the tie wire is through the lip. The tie wire also provides another anchor and adds strength. If the tie wire is attached to the body it should work equally well since the only resistance it needs to withstand the resistance of water and an occasional underwater obstruction. A couple pro musky lure makers use this method and some drill a hole for a small pin from the top of the head and through the lip for added holding power.
  13. Azsouth: Various sized containers, not sure of the sizes. Price said to be in line with with other products that lure makers are using. Seems to be very durable.
  14. Raven: I do not know about the compatibility with other poly materials. I did not try dipping but I think it should be doable. Excess can not be put back into the can. Its a two component material, once mixed its going to cure into a solid.
  15. This is being offered to distributors as a lure top coat. I was given a small sample to test and the results were very promising. Good gloss and coverage and thinner coats. Much thiner viscosity than we are used to with epoxy coatings. Without a doubt the hardest epoxy I have used. It's going to be marketed as "ClearShield-HD Lure & Fly Coating" A web site for the distributers is up and offers some information that users may be interested in. http://www.lurecoatings.com/index.html I have no financial interest in this product just letting you know to keep you eyes open, you might like to give it a try. The lures below are finished with "Clearshield - HD" Have fun, Jim P
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