HAWGFAN

Just use a circle template. For a few dollars you'll have every size you'll ever need. The holes will be close together, so blind the nearby ones with masking tape to protect from overspray. I use one similar to this: http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/c-thru-small-circle-template-198358/

Just spoke with Balsa USA. Nice people, and very helpful. The prices look competitive. There is a 25% surcharge for hand select, and shipping is $15 for orders up to $100. They said the sizes I buy should be cut from the density I want to begin with, so probably no need to specify hand select. Not to hijack this thread, but they also sell a 30 min epoxy that might be worth experimenting with, and a selection of CA glues.

I use Tower Hobbies http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=BALSA+++&CATEGORY=RC&MANUFACTURER=TOW&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch

Is that the pattern you're starting with, or the pattern you're trying to copy? Transparent paints will allow your hologram to show through. Your paints will be more transparent, thus making this process more forgiving, if you reduce them. I also use more pressure, and hold my airbrush farther from the bait when trying to keep my paint more transparent. For me that's 50 psi versus 30. Just slowly build your color, heat setting often, until it's at the level you desire.

Thought about it and had customers ask about them, but haven't attempted it yet. I'm not sure if i'd rather try carving one, or modify a minnow bodied plastic bait.

I honestly haven't done a true comparison, but I'd say very little. Some guys claim the CB has better action. I'm assuming because it's lighter. Most of my baits are pretty extreme on wobble to begin with, so I really don't notice a difference. I rarely get to fish waters clear enough to see them swimming either. It's probably like everything else in this game. There is probably a scenario where it matters, and if I say it doesn't, I'll be promptly blasted on here. For the baits I make, any difference seems to be negligible.

Thanks Mark. It performed as good as it looks for a while. I found out the hard way that the rocks in my home lake really love circuit board. After 8 hours the bill had almost ground down to the line tie. I use Lexan now for myself, but still offer the circuit board as an option to customers.

I do mine with the overspray toward the head, and the bass don't seem to mind. I added a pic to my gallery that you can look at. I've seen it done both ways.

You may find that a hair dryer is a little more forgiving for heat setting paints. The heat gun can cure the paint too fast, causing it to bubble. It also can cause plastic baits to crack. I've experienced both issues. I'm not saying you can't use it, but just take it slow.

They contacted me about setting up a store on their site. Basically, if you sell an item, they make a small commission. If I remember correctly, you list items for free. It sounded like a pretty good deal, but I haven't tried it yet. My regular customers keep me about as busy as I want to be. I think it could be a good way to get exposure for your products. If I ever hit a slow time on sales, I may post a few. The guys that run it seem very helpful and informative. I'm sure they'd be happy to answer any questions you'd have.

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Your 30 min epoxy won't be wasted. You'll use it for the top coat. 5 min will yellow as a top coat, so only use it for assembly steps.

Iwata Neo CN, .35mm tip

I only use prop as a sealer for balsa baits. I know some have figured it out for a top coat, but not me, so I can't comment on it for that use. From what I know about it from my experience, I think there are far better choices for a top coat.