seanmarty93

I feel like this is the absolute best buy for quality on a budget. I moved last year and have just finally set up my "lair" again and getting back to it. Its been awhile since I've been on TU. Glad to be back. Such a wonderful source of good information and good people!!! Anyway, check out the link below if you're in the market for an excellent brush at a phenomenal price!! http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=331355454487&alt=web

Found this:

Thanks Ben, I'll do just that.

Unfortunately TU is saying my photo files are to big to upload, and I'm not sure how to fix the problem.

I'll post some this afternoon when I get home.

I built a plywood box out of 1/4" luan plywood. I used 1"x1" pine for the frame. Next I installed a Broan bathroom fan and a small light bar and connected those to a switch mounted to side of box. I used flex dryer vent tube and ran it from my paint box on my workbench in the basement and drilled a hole through the extieror floor joist, or band board as some may call it, installed a dryer vent that matches the siding on the house. I also installed a furnace filter to catch paint and lessen the amount that gets sucked up and out of house. Works beautifully. I should ad that I use createx water based paints. This set up would not be recommended for flameable paints as the electric fan components are not sealed, therefore sparks generated in the fan motor could possibly ignite fumes.I'll post some pictures if anyone would like to see my setup.

Isaiah, I build my own square billed balsa baits too. I notch my bills to fit around the through wire line tie like Mark mentioned. The loop in the line tie on my baits are located just barely above the bill. I'll post a pic when I get home to show you how I do mine. Its pretty easy to do.

I know guys use cedar as well. It's a relatively soft wood, and turns very easily on a lathe.

Hmmm.... I copied and pasted youtube link and it wont show up after i hit post button. Anyway, if you youtube search "airbrush marble effect" there is a short video by airbrush tricks. Basically he lays a base coat, then sprays the color he wants to have the marble or crackled effect. Next, while paint is wet, he lays wrinkled plastic cling wrap over the paint then simply pulls it away. It leaves a pretty cool looking crackled effect. Check it out and let me know what you guys think. Thanks! Sean

This is a pretty interesting how to that may be worth trying for a very similar effect with regular paints:

Holy Cow!! Changed to .03 tip.......what a difference! I can now spray paint nicely down to 10 psi! I cant believe that 1/100th of more diameter would make that big of a difference! Thanks for all your input fellas. Much appreciated! Sean

Well If I can thin the paint up to fifty percent than maybe I need to thin them more. I thinned my paint between 25 and 35 % if I had to guess. Some bottles seemed a bit thicker than others for some reason. I'll switch over to the .03 nozzle also. Bob I use stencils as well, but for, lets say a kill dot, instead of holding the brush closer and spraying a little paint, I have to hold it 5 or 6 inches away and waste a lot of paint in order to get an even coat because my pressure has to be so high to push the paint. I'm thinking I need to thin more. How much reducer to you guys use with your creates paints? I'm using the wicked colors and a few pearlized colors.

Hey guys, I've got another rookie question. I have a cheap, double action, gravity fed, master pro airbrush that I ordered off ebay to get me started making and painting crankbaits. I plan on getting another more quality brush in the future, probably the Iwata BR that Dakota Lakes recommends. I realize the Master Pro model is cheap and of poor quality, but it is all I could afford at the time, and I didn't want to spend a lot of money before I knew whether or not I would be good enough to do a decent job airbrushing. I have been happy with my airbrush for the most part. It has really done a decent job, especially considering the price, and the fact that it came with 3 needle sizes: .05 .03 and .02. However, I am curious about a couple of things I would like your input/advice on. I am using createx paints and have thinned them down to the consistency of milk or maybe a tad thinner. I basically poured out about 1/6 to 1/4 of the full bottle of paint, and thinned using the recipe I found that seems to be popular of denatured alcohol, glycerin, non ammonia window cleaner and distilled water. I am also using the .02 tip. In order to shoot my paint, I am having to set my air pressure at 25 to 35 psi for opaques. and as high as 40 to 50 psi for pearlized paints.Are those typical pressures to shoot paint? I am very good about keeping my airbrush clean, cleaning and back pressure washing the brush between colors, and cleaning it thoroughly every couple of days by taking it apart and getting every last atom of paint off of needle, out of nozzle and every other nook and cranny. This has been working fine for me, however, the problem I'm having is trying to get in close and do any type of detail work. I feel like that the air pressure is to high, so that when I get the airbrush close to the lure im working on (1 1/2" to 1/2") and try to apply paint, the paint wants to splatter rather than lightly mist. If I turn my pressure down, the paint wont flow at all, and If I thin my paint anymore, I feel like it will be way to thin. Can I chalk it off to just the fact that I have a cheap brush and am expecting to much, or am I missing something that I should be doing in order to accomplish some close in detail work? I also wondered if maybe I need to be using one of the other larger needles, but again, seems to negate trying to get some finer detailing done. Any input would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

Thanks fellas for all the great advice, I appreciate it. I'm working on my first couple of self made wooden cranks. Finally got them painted up and anxious to get the eyes on them and top coated!!!!