Jump to content

JRammit

TU Member
  • Content Count

    1,793
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

JRammit last won the day on November 6

JRammit had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

437 Excellent

1 Follower

About JRammit

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/12/1980

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rhome Texas
  • Interests
    Fishing, stock market... And Fishing!

Recent Profile Visitors

1,647 profile views
  1. I keep a bag of every size split shot sinkers hanging on my wall for ballast weights... 1/32 oz, 1/16 oz, and 1/8 oz... ive weighed them and they are within a few 100ths of a gram from sinker to sinker, an insignificant difference If you know where you need the weight, you can install it before carving and then sand the weight almost seemlessly into the body.... if you have to float test and place the weight after the body is carved, just cover it in super glue and baking soda, then sand that down flush with the body
  2. Dug this old mold off the shelf and poured these baits to target hybrid stripers I wasnt happy with this bait when i originally made it and tested on a 1/4 oz jig head... but today i gave it another test swim on a 1/2 oz head and it made all the difference..... has a fast subtle wiggle at a medium/fast retrieve (no good for slow retrieves)
  3. JRammit

    The Dead Stick

    Specifically designed for dead sticking hybrid stripers later this winter... 4 1/2" long forked tail worm, custom fitted to a 1/2 oz ball head jig...... most use a fluke for this application, but i wanted somthing tailored, and i have that power as a lure designer.... slender worm style body for a drop shot like action, and a pronounced forked tail for a shad like profile Strait chartreuse and clear with heavy silver glitter
  4. Someome, a non fisherman, once asked me how i come up with the ideas for all my lures... i didn't have a good answer to give him, because every lure has its own story... then later i realized that IS the answer When i go fishing im simultaneously designing lures in my head... im thinking to myself what would be the perfect bait/rig/presentation/thing for these exact circumstances/conditions and indeed sometimes the specific spot im fishing... ive even designed and made a lure tailored to one cast i wanted to make Thats the power we have as lure designers... we don't have to pace the fishing isle at Walmart making compromises, wishing they made this bait in a smaller size or that bait in a different color or this tail on that body or that lip on this profile or what have you Lure design to me is filling a specific need without compromise... sometimes its a new idea, sometimes its a tweak on an old idea, sometimes its a triumphant success, sometimes its a spectacular failure.... either way its what makes me tick... ive transformed fishing from a sport into a puzzle its human nature to always strive for incremental improvements in all aspects of life, and this hobby is no exception... it took me 2 years to completely fill my tackle box with homemade lures that all work, and in the process my building skills have improved to the point that im now pulling old lures out to be replaced with the new...... in my shop i have a "wall of shame" with all my failed designs and screw ups hanging proudly on display... my next project will be a "wall of fame" next to the former where ill retire all my successful lures that caught alot of fish but no longer meet my asthetic standards
  5. Weight centered in one spot creates kind of a pivot point that a lure can easily rotate around... spread the weight out and it reduces the pivot point A great analogy for this was posted here some years back.... imagine holding a broom stick with a weight attatched to the center and spinning it back n forth... then imagine spinning the same broom stick back n forth with a weight attatched to each end
  6. Epoxy used for hardware ill handle gently after an hour... epoxy used for top coat i put it away somewhere safe and wont touch it until the following day... even if its set in an hour its still soft and sometimes still sticky
  7. JRammit

    Mini Rat-L-Trap

    Im completely satisfied with the action, and it didnt take any tuning to get it that way surprisingly ....... it has a tight subtle vibration, enough to clearly feel down the rod, but not as heavy a vibration as a real rat-l-trap, likely because i did not flatten the leading edge of the nose
  8. I did however find a good use for the bad tube... since i also make soft baits, i used it to seal my masters... doesn't matter if theyre cloudy, as long as theyre smoothe and shiny I use alot of devcon too, so getting the one bad tube is not indicitive of the quality of the product... theres no telling how many good tubes i went thru before and after that one... I always say D2T is like the Franks Red Hotsauce of my shop.... i put that sh*t on everything
  9. Yup... i got a bad tube once before, but only once.... also i run into difficulty in cold weather (unless i preheat the epoxy and everything it touches)... and the last bit in the tube never mixes right and can be cloudy sometimes
  10. Finally got to the real world test.... good thing i took the time to make a second diver modeled off the first one, because i lost the first one right off the bat... pretty sure i trolled over a barbed wire fence, i didnt think it ran out that far from shore, but i snagged the hell out of somthin If it was the fence, it would have been about 4' tall, water was 27' deep and i had 100' of line out, so thats roughly 20' deep which correlates with almost losing the second one in 21' of water Kinda frustrating that the only way to test the depth is to run it until it drags bottom, especially since this thing seems to dig into the bottom.... so thats another design aspect to think about, something that can drag bottom without getting stuck So... it worked... but its not ideal
  11. For smaller/thinner swim baits i use twisted wire eyes and spinnerbait wire for the pin... For normal sized jointed baits i use screw eyes and a bicycle spoke for the pin
  12. No prob... definitely easier to see in a picture than to explain in words The hard part tho, for me, is cutting the hinge slots once you have your pieces separated... i came up with an idea for that, but havnt tried it yet.... cool thing about PVC is it melts, so next time im gonna try heating up a nail or a piece of wire and melting the slots instead of cutting them
  13. Heres the basic idea... just set your fence up at the length you want to cut your joint and set your (idk what its called, angle guide) at 45 degrees... then cut without cutting all the way thru, then flip the block over without moving the fence and cut again....... then drill your pin hole.... then cut out your shape and do all your carving
  14. I will as soon as i can get back in the shop... its our busy season at work (i haul propane) and these 14 hour days dont leave alot of time between work and sleep
  15. Oh, and its also easier to drill the pin holes in the block before cutting... youll need an acurate center line around the block to line up the tru hole on each side.... heres an easy way to mark the center of any flat piece of material
×
×
  • Create New...
Top