Bois d'Arc
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Posts posted by Bois d'Arc
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Iwata airbrushes are hard to beat...might invest in an extra needle. Senko makes a model PC1010 compressor that is awesome for airbrushing...and other stuff. Use the correct thinner with each different brand of paint....Createx use Illustration base....Wicked use High Performance Reducer...they just spray better that way. Don't spend too much $$ on colors. There are some good posts on this site with color selection for lure painting...do the search save the $$. Don't buy cheap blanks...they're cheap...for a reason. Get a few vendors who do you right and a few blank styles you like to paint and stick with them. Use the blue painters tape to cover the diving bills on your blanks. Take the time to tape them up cleanly...looks much better when done right. Sometimes it helps to stick the tape to your jeans once before putting it on your lure blank...gets some of the glue off. Lots of opinions on clear coating lures. Most folks start with epoxy ...Devcon 2 part 30 minute handling time is a good place to begin....search and read up on this subject in order to save yourself infinite amounts of grief. Lure Layouts sells stencils...lots of stencils...mostly flat...not vacuum formed 1/2 shells. Making stencils is a whole nuther subject...yes I know nuther isn't a real word...but it fits well. Search and read up on stencil making, it's a necessary skill for most of us. If you have questions this is the BEST place to find answers. Good luck and keep thinking good thoughts. 
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Best place you can go for information on any tackle related anything!!!
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A few thoughts on D2T....use the 30 minute handling time for lure finishing. Home or Industrial??? Marketing stuff...both work the same way. Thin it with a little denatured alcohol... careful not too much.... causes fish eyes and sticky lures. Mix the two parts together first then stir well...next add a few drops of alcohol and re-stir. If you get bubbles in the mix when stirring just cup your hand over the mix cup and exhale into it a few times...presto... no more bubbles. Mix small amounts and do two or three lures at a time...when the epoxy gets stiff you can cut it with a little alcohol and stir it up until it thins out again. (see: careful not too much) Use a lure turner to avoid sags and runs. If you can get your hands on a dehydrator hang you D2T coated lures in it, after turning them for 15-20 minutes, and set it on 95-105 degrees and cook for an hour or so....lures come out dry and hard as a nail.
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Heat guns work great if used properly...use it wrong and your blanks will blow up like a dead toad in the hot sun.
Be sure to keep the gun moving across the lure and don't hold it on any one spot...also keep it a safe distance from the blank (Ben's post is right on). I use a heat gun with Createx paints because it seems to set and dry the paint better. With Wicked paints a hair dryer works nicely or just let the paint air dry ... works great either way. -
I have several of their stencils in different sizes. I use them a lot to get individual spots, stripes and misc. shapes on painted patterns. Good designs and very useful.
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Yep...mostly in the Bois 'd Arc unit of the Caddo-LBJ Grasslands. Lots of good fishing in two small lakes make it well worth the drive.
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I fish a lot of small lakes also. Some of the same ones JRammit mentioned. If there's a line of junk moss....the stuff that grows off the shoreline out into the water, usually only a few yards out into the water that can be a gold mine. It may be under water after a heavy rain but it grows to the surface very fast. You may have to cover a lot of it but when you find a spot it can hold a lot more good fish than you would imagine. Pay attention to pockets and points in the junk, particularly along wind swept shorelines.
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Very light braid in the 8-10 lb, range makes a great spinning reel line. Super small and very sensitive...you'll feel every tap. No need to set the hook hard just a quick snap is all it takes. The stuff lasts for years. Its available in hi vis (mostly yellowish) and I've used it for a while now and love it. Now that spinning reels are using larger spool diameters even on smaller lightweight reels wind knots aren't a big problem. Downside is the small braid tends to be a little $$.
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Opaque white, black and yellow. White for a base, blk/yellow for shades of green. Makes a very nice range of olive green for back & side color.
Transparent yellow, blue, green, brown, grey, orange. Black and white for tint and shade when mixing colors.
Pearl white, silver, black and gold....maybe copper
Iridescent blue, yellow, and green.
Probably missed a few transparent colors but not a bad place to start out. Good luck painting...just know that if you start you can't stop
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Barlow's sells Mustad (TG76) short wide triple grip and VMC (9651bn) short wide hooks both in black nickel. Great hooks...use them on all my lures.
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A friend and fellow tackle maker from another forum introduced me to the Senko model PC1010 for airbrush painting. Its simply awesome...super quiet, twin air tanks, accurate gauges, its small and lightweight with a carrying cradle as its base. I'm sure there are other equally great compressors, but this is my favorite.
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Started out buying a kit from TCP global for small $. Switched to Paasche airbrushes and used a standard air compressor from Husqvarna (loud) for a while. Ended up with a Senko compressor (very quiet, wife loves me again) and Iwata airbrushes. Its a progression that I think most lure folks go thru. If I could redo everything I'd probably just grit my teeth and pay $$ for a kit from Iwata.
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Gallon plastic milk jugs. Cut the flat sides out, usually at least two per jug. Cheap, durable and easy to heat and mold. Been told some folks get a little coin for recycling the jugs so they might be scarce depending on where you live.
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It's from an article by Greg Vinall. "Why Fish Don't See Your Lures", is the name of the article. Very interesting stuff lots of good useful information to consider when painting a lure pattern.
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Interesting facts to support Mark's observations:
*As a general rule, the eyes of fish species that live in relatively clear water tend to distinguish a wider spectrum of colors than those that live in dirty or tannin stained waters. Fish that are adapted to the latter conditions don't get exposure to blue and violet wavelengths and tend to be adapted to the spectral ranges of red-orange and yellow-green (chartreuse).
*Largemouth bass, perch, bluegill, crappie and walleye are most sensitive to light wavelengths in the 590 - 650nm range (red-orange) and are also sensitive to the 510 - 570nm range (yellow-green).
Keen observation on Mark's part.
I was the probably only white kid in Mesquite Texas who watched Soul Train back in the 70's.....Sooooooul Train, with your host Don Cornelius!! Afro's and disco
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I've used Createx paints to put a pattern on lead head spinner baits with great results. Base coat with opaque white then paint whatever pattern you want. Heat setting is necessary with Airbrush colors, not so much with Wicked colors. I use Devcon epoxy thinned down with denatured alcohol to clear coat the head. Be sure to mix the two part epoxy well before adding denatured alcohol. I use a disposable plastic shot cup for the mix and an an eyedropper to add alcohol to the mix then stir it in thoroughly. As for the bubbles, just cup your hand over the shot cup and exhale into it a few times. Just like magic the bubbles will rise to the surface and disappear. Apply the epoxy sparingly so as to avoid blobs on the hook, hook eye or wire. An LED desk lamp will show any voids in the epoxy when held at angles to the light. I normally put the lure on a turner for about 15 minutes then once the epoxy is levelled and set, hang the lure in a dehydrator at about 95 -105 degrees for 30-45 minutes. Comes out hard as a nail and looking good. I'm sure there are other methods that work just as well...just sayin' this one works for me. Keep thinking good thoughts!
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I use cheap craft brushes. They're flat and about 1/4 inch wide and have nylon bristle. I use denatured alcohol to clean them after using the epoxy. I have a jar of denatured alcohol that's been used to clean epoxy off brushes for use as a first rinse and a small shot glass I use with fresh denatured alcohol as a final rinse. After the epoxy is on the lure just wipe off the excess with a paper towel and swish the brush in the trash alcohol for a first rinse...wipe the brush and finish up with a dip into the clean alcohol. Don't wipe the brush...tap it against something to knock the loose alcohol off the bristle. I let the brush lay horizontally between a pair of stick pins to dry. Cleaning this way your brush will last months. OK ...so I'm cheap...a six pack of brushes costs $1.50
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For me the Pumpkinseed Bream is by far the most difficult to paint. All the dots, spots and streaks of color combine to make a prettycomplex pattern. There are huge numbers of shad in my area lakes so the most productive scheme is shad on silver foil. Goes something like this: white belly, grey upper sides, blue/green/copper back, yellow along the lateral line, pinkish lower gills, gold upper gills and eye sockets, flat black kill dot, light mist of burnt orange on the throat. Very effective during the summer and early fall months when the shad school up.
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I've purchased from Dinger several times. Good quality blanks every time.
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As long as the Federal government continues to over regulate and over tax small business and manufacturing in America we can look forward to being exploited by the Chinese and other opportunistic foreign countries. Its up to us to change the way government deals with our businesses by voting for folks who will support US businesses. Don't want to get too political so let's just agree that our government is failing to create a friendly business environment in the US. I buy all my blanks from American resellers....but its difficult to get a clear fix on where the blanks originate from. I've bought from offshore sources in the past and was disappointed with the overall quality of the blanks in at least half the orders I placed. Decided to focus on a few US based vendors....all of which have been mentioned in previous posts. No regrets. America 1st!
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Using plastic lures like you can buy online. Apply D2T and rotate the lure for about 15 minutes to level any heavy spots. Pop the lure into a dehydrator set to about 105f /41c or a bit higher . The lure is ready for hardware to be attached in about an hour. D2T is a wonderful thing.
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Interesting thing is that AC1315 coated lures don't have this problem. Not pushing 1315 here....just sayin'. Jury is still out on Garco MCU but none of those lures have shown any issues yet. Thinkin' its the summer heat and some chemical reaction thats causing the Eagle to melt away. Summers on the way, so we'll see
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It's pretty clear that there is some kind of a chemical reaction between the storage box plastic and the top coat, so that's why I suggested a physical barrier.
AC1315 that's been on a bait for months will melt if left in contact with plastisol for more that a day, so I know there are still reactions possible, even with cured baits.
Good response....I'm thinkin' its something with the FTO box and Eagle Supreme. May have to toss all the sealers and go back to D2T or something like it.
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Maybe laying a piece of paper towel over the lures will keep them from sticking.
Interersting thing is the lures aren't sticking ....it seems like the finish is just melting away. The lures have been cured in a dehydrator for a few weeks before being put to use so the finish is dry. They don't stick to one another or the lid of the box.....very odd thing....I'm at a loss to explain this.
Airbrushing glitter paints
in Hard Baits
Posted · Edited by Bois d'Arc
Larger needle sizes work best. I use a Paasche TG Talon airbrush with a .66mm air-cap, tip, and needle for spraying glitter paint. This setup works pretty well but requires frequent and thorough cleaning. I use FolkArt brand glitter paint mostly because its readily available and inexpensive.