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About Fishermanbt

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  1. A trick I picked up from another board to address hard pack is add a little bit of softner if there’s room then scrape the bottom and shake/stir. I have also found that those small paint mixers on amazon work great for getting smaller bottles completely mixed. Time and hand cramp saver
  2. Not 100% on this but the part where the injector goes in is the spur. The part where you top off after injecting. The channel leading to the baits is the runner. The size of the runner tends to be determined by the size of the bait. This is because as the bait cools it is drawing hot plastic from the runner. This keeps the bait from denting. For example my Jacobs 3” silver fish has a 5/16” runner. It is a thin profile bait. Where as I have a 3.5” grub mold that has a 5/8” runner. It has a thicker body. As far as mixing plastics I don’t have a straight answer other than trial and error.
  3. Personal preference varies but let them set overnight then test things out. DOP is what I use and I have noticed they firm up pretty good by the next day. I shoot the AI double dipper so can dip the rod then shoot a cover color. Never had a problem using do it tube jigs.
  4. Those are some nice tubes you poured there. Slowfish replied as I’m typing and said exactly what I was going to. Looks like you’re not getting a solid bond due to low plastic temp. Essentially you’re asking two very thin layers of unbounded plastic to hold up to that big lead head distorting it. I doubt that it’s the brand of plastic. Shoot a few in one color at a higher temp. Let them sit overnight then see what happens when inserting the jig with worm oil on it. If that helps move back to the two colors and try the same. Please let us know how it goes I’m intrigued.
  5. If you have access to a food vac sealer that welds the bags shut you could try what I did to save a few bucks. Side note, most of my plastic is in the 2”-4” range. I found large 12”x4ish” sized 4 mil zip top bags at a decent price. Made a reference jig and cut them in half-so 6” each. Meaning that I cut them from the bottom up through the zipper. I then placed the cut side in the vac seal and just used the heat feature on the vac seal to weld the cut side shut. Depending on the zipper thickness you might have to heat up a flat screw driver and flatten the cut end of the zipper before welding the cut end. I therefore doubled my stock and have only had one fail so far. To load them I put baits in a plastic container with a few drops of scent and a few drops of oil. Shake until baits appear coated. Using a flexible cutting mat cut to fit inside the bag I arrange baits on the mat. Slightly bow the mat and slide into the bag. Flip the bag over on the table and the baits usually release allowing you to remove the mat again using a slight bend. Now the baits are nice and neat in the bag not all bent or distorted. Hope this makes sense.
  6. I know it’s one more expense but alsworms gives some good advice. I started out with kitchen ziplock bags and drowning the baits with oil/scent. I learned fast this was not the way to go especially for long storage. I started using some 4 mil bags a while back and they are a night and day difference. I also just do a lite coating of oil/scent. It will not seep through a 4 mil bag, thus you will not need as much. If I’m stockpiling I will forgo the plastic bags and just use a plastic tote with a decent lid and no oil/scent. I just stack the cured baits the best I can and add to bags as needed.
  7. I know I’m not the right guy to be answering this due to my work habits but let me just say this. Being an explosive technician (I apologize if that’s not the right title) is dangerous but it all comes down to what consistent measures one takes to be safe. It sounds like you’re on the right track and I like that you added the mechanical dangers. A few additions I would mention is where are you venting the fumes from the fan; where are you pouring at in your residence and are you using equipment dedicated solely for this fantastic craft?
  8. Try using a digital thermometer that you put into the plastic. Heat plastic, stir gently, take temp. Just don’t let the thermometer rest on the bottom of the cup. Hold the tip slightly off the bottom. Note the temp and then try your inferred thermometer and compare your readings. I’m curious if you’re getting false readings.
  9. Back you temp down to around 290-315. The molds will let you know if you’re to cold. Jot down what temp gets a complete bait for each mold. This should help the problem.
  10. That is either a piece of graphite or carbon I suspect. There is a plant about 15 minutes north of me in WV. Used to make high heat high wear molds https://agmwv.com/products/grafstar/
  11. I made a stir stick to mix up my Dead On gallon jugs. Chuck it in the drill and mix away. Beats shaking the guts out of it. I used a 12” long 1/4” wooden rod with a groove cut up the center about an 1 1/2”. I then inserted a piece of plastic milk jug cut just shy the opening width and drilled pilot holes through the wood and plastic. Then I applied glue and used finishing nails as holding pins. All that’s left is to trim the corners up, cut the nails off, grind them down flush and wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol to remove any debris.
  12. I scavenged my motor from a junked microwave. It is the turntable motor. It is listed as a 5/6 rpm and seems to be a good speed. Not hard to extract and a breeze to wire into the power cord cut from the same microwave. I have not had any trouble thus far but I will say it is not as robust as a rotisserie motor. It however was free. Just a thought.
  13. Fishermanbt

    Tube Jigs

    I have never seen the set up your looking for. If my memory serves me correctly I remember reading a post one time pertaining to this topic. Someone had mentioned it most likely comes down to cost. Most fishermen would rather drop a few dollars on a few bags of different color tubes rather than the cost of an intricate machined mold. Jacobs Molds sells small tube molds 1 1/2” and 1 3/4” with core pins. You just have to cut the tails. Not hard to make a tail cuter with razor blades, washers for spacers and a couple bolts.
  14. Glad to hear you got the lead pot dialed in and working for you. Just use caution when it starts to drip with the gate shut. Seems to happen to most of these Lee pots over time including mine. A small can like a cat food can will catch the drips and keep them from splattering onto you and the work surface for the most part while allowing you to access the spout.
  15. I’ve never made any crank baits before but I do pour jigs and have a lee pot. What number do you have the dial set to? Sounds like you have it set way to hot. Most of the time I keep mine at around 4-5 for molds and that’s with junk wheel weight lead. I watched one of those videos you mentioned where he was doing belly weight pouring. If I remember correctly the stream of lead was somewhat broken (not a fine, thin consistent stream if that makes sense). This causes me to think he had his temp down just hot enough to make the lead liquid.
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