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McLuvin175

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McLuvin175 last won the day on November 20 2018

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  1. Is there purple glitter in that bait or is it my imagination?
  2. Oil Dry or some equivalent oil absorbent product. Something you can probably get a Auto Store or even big box hardware places. Wipe up any excess liquid. You can then do as mentioned above and wipe with mild solvent or degrreaser cleaner. Then pour a small amount of the absorbent over the spill. Grind the granules down with your foot, kinda like your trying to get gum off of your shoe or putting out a cigarette butt. This makes a fine dust out of the material and helps to pull out the oil from the concrete. Pour more material to cover the spill again and let sit overnight. Thats about as good as you can do. In a pinch cheap cat litter will work too, not the fancy designer types.
  3. Odd. Turing towards a green shade doesn't make sense for reheats as it seems it would just turn your batch more amber. One explantion might be is you got the plastic hot enough to actually melt the glitter. Adding black color to a yellow(amber) will turn it towards the green shade. This would seem hard to do as you'd have to get that glitter to around maybe 450F to do that. And when plastic is that hot you know it. Outside of that the only other thing I can think of is some outside contamination that snuck in somehow. (from your injector, stir stick, something)
  4. Where was the glitter from? The colorant?
  5. if your having issues with that mold 10 minutes is way too long. Depending on how warm your mold is you should be able to de-mold about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes after shooting; maybe sooner. You'll have to experiment a little to find the sweet spot for this mold.
  6. Topping off may not help if the gates are freezing off. Try and de-mold the baits as soon as possible after shooting. Cooling and shrinking baits do so more evenly when not in the mold. If they "shrink" while still in the mold during the cooling process they tend to do so unevenly and dents can occur at the softest spots. Toss them in some cool water to finish or lay them out straight on a level clean surface. See if that helps.
  7. LureWorks Methiolate 132 Methiolate is a pinkish shade of fluorescent Orange. If you dont want to invest in a new colorant then you would be better mixing fluorescent orange and fluorescent pink, although depending on what you have it may be hard to match the transparency of the single pigment. Good luck.
  8. Never add hardener during heating. Always add to cold virgin plastic and mix thoroughly. If that is what your doing and it is not mixing then something is going on. Whose plastic are you adding the hardener to?
  9. It might be only 320F where your reading with your thermometer; especially if it is an IR type. Right where that flame is hitting that pan that plastic is probably easily 400F +. Its called a "hot spot". Constant stirring will help but with that setup you'll never not burn plastic. For a small amount like that you cant beat a cheap microwave. Did you add any hardener to that mix? That may explain the blob that wont mix in.
  10. What colorant / color were you using? What was the "load" on that colorant?
  11. Hard to tell just from a pic, but it looks like either Zooms version of Cotton Candy with Black and Blue Flake. Could more likely be Carolina Pumpkin as well. (Hat tip to Land Big Fish for the Pic)
  12. Which Chartreuse are you using?
  13. I guess it depends on which manufacturers bait you are trying to match. In all the Houdini colors Ive seen the base (belly) color is Sand colorant with small (0.015") and medium copper glitter (0.035"/0.040"). You can find Sand 208 at LureWorks if you want the exact color. If you have Carolina Pumpkin you could make that work, just keep it light and that should make a good substitute. Oh and the back color is Watermelon Red Flake.
  14. Heres the White: https://www.ispikeit.com/product/293/white-3012 . For small jobs you could consider the Worm Paint in Unscented or Garlic here: https://www.ispikeit.com/category/4/lure-paints For even bigger jobs or production work you could step up to their VPI series here: https://www.ispikeit.com/category/85/vpi-paint That should keep you busy.
  15. The FB consensus is wrong. I don't know where they get their colorant but its not from LureWorks. I don't think its from any of the other known sources either like MF or Lurecraft etc.
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