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Esoxkid06

TU Member
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About Esoxkid06

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 07/23/1989

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northern Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Muskies, they consume my life
  1. My original testers were alumilite. To be honest they priming/painting went smoothly. And I didnt wait very long. I think I need to go back to their products. Im honestly starting to think it's something with this specific resin? I literally have a tester with no epoxy and water based createx on it. And I have thrown that thing in a pool and let it roll around in my car etc. And the paintjob still looks good. I may have waited a day of 2 before I painted... But you are the 2nd person that has said that to me now. So I will give it a shot. Alumilite say that you should paint right away? Or paint in mold. Which isnt really an option. Could I put adhesive promoter in the mold before casting?
  2. Well that may be my problem. What do you do as far as prep? I an am currently doing wax and grease. Plastic primer and then kilz. I wait after priming 24 hrs. Will this work out?
  3. Hey guys, So I have this new glider that guys are going nuts for and ive switched to plastic and its pretty much ready to be produced in quantity. Unlike my previous models that were wood. I opted to go hard plastic so I can produce more to sell. My only problem is that painting is seriously kicking my butt. Im not quite sure what the issue is. I use plastic resin from a company called fabricast 50 from specialty resins. Now the main problem im assuming is the bonding. But it only really occurs on the back and belly of the bait. So thats no good when it comes to epoxying. It's almost like something is coming through the bait which I thought was some sort of contamination. But I use wax and grease remover prior to priming. Is it the spray bomb primer? Should I use a adhesive spray instead?
  4. awesome thanks for the info. I figured the best way to do it was the way you described. I'll try that out and let you know of the results
  5. Yes, I have thought of through wire construction, And using egg sinkers for weight, its going to be a rise and Dive jerkbait. I was just thinking that the wire wouldnt be thick enough, as far as attaching split rings and the eye for attaching the straight wire jerkbait leaders to. most jerkbaits, even plastic have larger eyes, like screw eye size. just cant figure out how to do it! lol
  6. Hey everyone, So I'm brand new to the forum, I have been getting a lot of learning in just browsing around. I have recently started tinkering with lure building and making blanks, molds etc. for Musky fishing. The thing Im wondering is if screw eyes work for hard plastic baits? I haven't been able to find much info online regarding this, only wood baits. I'm thinking of finding a way to make the mold work so I have the eyes in it, when I pour the resin. on The other hand will the plastic crack if I attempt to screw in the eyes after the bait is made? this is all pretty new to me, and I'm sure there is going to be plenty of trial and error along the way.
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