gliders
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Posts posted by gliders
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On 2/16/2020 at 4:46 PM, mark poulson said:
I bet they'd work on both trout and salmon. Those fish eat other fish, bigtime.
Hey Mark,sure they would, our Atlantic salmon stop feeding long before they run our rivers. I did build a few prototypes for pike, maybe get back to them in a few months, I bought a hundred stainless props plus cups !
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Snap !
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Hi Lizzie, nice story. You can't go wrong with a combination belt/disc sander, ( 6inch disk 4 inch belt) , a small bandsaw and a small bench/pillar drill. As I'm from Scotland, I can't recommend models, hopefully someone from U.S can help with that....glider
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fnf, if you want it to go side to side on retrieve , try making the front profile more rounded and bulbous. Most gliders I've used and make will go side to side on straight retrieve depending on speed, though not designed primarily to do this....
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hey fnf. have you tried jerking the lure ?
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And from Scotland..
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hey turtlela, 8 hours turning should be plenty, so thats not the problem. Possibly the amount you're applying ? p.s , no need at all to let sit before applying, is the uneven thickness caused by fish eye (contamination) ?
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turtlela, how long are you leaving on spinner ?
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out of interest spoonpluger, what are you sealing with ,and which zinsser primer ?....glider
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Another option is mix some nail glitter in a suitable clear base..
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Thanks guy's, Benton.b, that was one I have looked at, I'll probably end up making several prototypes and experiment. .glider
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Hi all, looking for any helpful info on prop type surface lures. I build lots of spook type surface lures ,but prop type lures are not used regularly over this way. I'm intending to build some large pike size - 6-8 inch double prop lures. I'm using the propeller shape props and plan on 1 at each end. I will either make them spook shaped ,or possibly shad type shape. These will probably be red cedar. I intend to ballast them for stability , casting distance and more importantly - attitude on surface at rest . I would imagine any type of walk the dog type action would be highly unlikely ? That being the case, what is the preferred attitude of this type of lure when resting on surface ? I'm thinking fairly low on surface ,slightly tail down . Appreciate any input if anyone builds and /or fishes this type of bait. Thanks..glider..
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I've heated under grill till they felt fairly warm but not what you would call hot. I personally don't thin ,as I've found it gets pretty thin when applying to the warm blank. Wait 5 mins after removing lure from heat before applying. ..
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Good stuff, look forward to seeing some new lures...
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You could do away with spar urethane and seal by heating lure before applying e-tex ,using just enough to soak in. Heating the wood makes it suck the e-tex in as it cools....
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Bonepile, if you really have to handle lure, do what mark suggested. If you actually had oily hands when you handled your lures, then they may well have had it. If your paint is bone dry and preferably heat set, it is possible to clean very gently with luke warm water and a small amount of washing up liquid - literally a few very gentle wipes or you risk lifting paint. .glider
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Hopefully you'll get to the bottom of it bonepile, for sure touching the lure will create fish eyes, with oily hands its guaranteed.....glider
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Mark, I've used a similar method-clear acrylic through airbrush over glitter with decent results . Bonepile, hope that's your problem solved. In my case it only happens with one glitter, and like I say I catch it no problem with next coat. I'm surprised vallejo gloss caused it, was it 100 percent cured ? P.s you can E-tex over foil fine...glider
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Hey bonepile, I also use wood stir sticks. It does not add bubbles or any other issues. I don't think it's bad Etex either. I also use a lot of glitter, I have found like yourself that certain glitters repel E-tex more than others. Personally I find the next coat catches it fine , however I'm considering cleaning the glitter that is most prone to this in soapy water. I wonder if it may be down to the actual surface finish of the glitter though, I'm going to clean the glitter most prone to this and see if it makes any difference in a day or two, will give you a shout with result.if it is contamination then this will solve it. I have some pics in gallery of glitter perch patterns , the gold glitter one's use the glitter I have found most prone to this. I'll stick some pics of other patterns using different glitters up later.
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Unfortunately, when it comes to tech I'm a few pixels short of a gigliobyte....glider
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I think its a really unfortunate drawback to this great forum, that once you have posted a certain ammount of pics ( even if few and far between) you are unable to ever post anymore due to using up attachments quota. I find it less interesting when you are unable to see pic's of various experiments from the likes of guy's like 'vodkaman 'and probably lots of others, because they are no longer able to illustrate with pictures. Is there no way for old attachments to be deleted , or something else that could be done to solve this ! FREE OUR ATTACHMENTS T.A ! FREE THE VMAN ! (and anyone else it may concern )..
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I've also used most of those of those methods above chuck, would be interesting to compare different methods results, but unfortunately not able to post pics here-only in gallery, due to 'attachments full' ...glider..
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I make big pike cranks from western red cedar which seems ideal, you could use epoxy coats over balsa to create a tough shell. You could also seal with epoxy. ...glider
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You can clear over nail glitter no problem. .
Great idea shot all to hell.
in Hard Baits
Posted
Surely if the lure has the same overall shape and volume, it will not matter what you make it it from in terms of micro baloons,wood density etc. ? At the same sink rate, the lure will weigh exactly the same regardless?