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gliders

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Posts posted by gliders

  2. best way to prime with zinsser bin?

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Hey chuck, I'm not implying your confused, I was saying the terms laquer, laquer based etc. Can suggest different things in different parts of the world. I personally only use bin on lures I intend to be smooth. Only on sealed lures, and always with multiple epoxy top-coats. When it comes to bin curing unevenly indoors and the re-coat issues when used on walls etc. , I have never had this issue when spraying my lures with the method I described - not once on many hundreds of lures. Regardless of multiple top coats, every pike lure will get pierced through the layers to the wood, and I've not had any extra  issues because bin was the primer. Like I said ,I've had similar results with cellulose  ( laquer? ) primer. ..

  4. low price hvlp gun ?

    in Hard Baits

    Posted · Edited by gliders

    Yes ddl, that sounds too small. As huesey  suggested - you could try dipping them, I've also done this but prefer spraying. I got the best results by dipping and hanging them the way they come out, my results with dipping and putting on turner were not good, I think because of consistency  (viscosity ) combined with quick drying time. Definitely worth considering dip and hang though...glider

    • Like 1

  5. best way to prime with zinsser bin?

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Chuck, I think there's confusion across countries  with the names and meanings of various solvents and laquers etc. Bin is alcohol based pigmented shellac. I use it -as opposed to airbrush primers because when doing a lot of large baits it gives a perfect white base coat/primer over scuffed, epoxy sealed wood lures. Because I shoot through a spray gun ,the bin can be used in much thicker consistency than possible with an airbrush /airbrush primer. One coat on an 8 inch lure takes about 10 seconds, 2 coats 30 minutes apart gives complete coverage. Let dry for 1-2 days depending on temperature etc. I've also used cellulose  (laquer? ) baed primer with same equipment with similar results. .

    • Like 1

  6. low price hvlp gun ?

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Ddl, I take it you are making muskie size lures ? The rattle cans are great if you don't intend making too many. If your making a fair few regularly then the spray gun is the way to go, you will need a different hose and fitting from your airbrush hose. I'm sure as big blue says, you'll get a suitable set up from harbour freight. We don't have harbour freight over here but I can have a look to find one similar to mine, this is basically a generic cheap gun, 1.4mm nozzle . Zinsser bin slightly thinned is still VERY thick compared with anything you could put through an airbrush. ..

    • Like 1

  7. best way to prime with zinsser bin?

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I use bin after sealing, as a white primer prior to paint. Use a cheap auto type spray gun, lays down very well. Dries flat. I find it very good for priming large lures very quickly. Had zero issues with water damage even when top coats are pierced, which they are regularly with pike. I've left a floating  lure (which had caught lots of pike) attached to a bhouy underwater at mercy of waves etc. For 3 months as a test. No issues - cleaned the algae and dirt off and good to go......

    • Like 2

  8. Glitter and Epoxy

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I also use half cured epoxy method ,either lightly sprinkled or completely covered. Can't put pic's on here,will put in gallery if someone wants a look. Like A.A said,I'd be wary using your finger to smooth out...

  9. Dippdidee?

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Thanks AA and WD, was pretty sure the spelling was wrong !  Thats the one WD,  Back in the day, a uk  company  starting importing American lures, a friend who has some in tatters and wearing rose tinted specs  asked about getting some made and painted in original  patterns. ..Thanks ..glider

     

  10. Dippdidee?

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Wonder if any of you guy's know of , or have pictures of an old topwater prop type lure called something like a dippdidee or dippedy d . I think possibly a muskie lure ? , thanks, glider..

  13. T Trebles

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Decoy t- trebles, only to 1/0 I think though. Savagegear used to do bigger size t- trebles and I regret not buying up more before they disappeared.  I've also 'T,d  big savagegear Y trebles as well as mustad ...glider

  15. Epoxy Primers

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Don't listen to woodieb8 dinger, your not doomed getting into making wood musky /pike lures. Its an easy and relaxing hobby ,and think of the thousands of pounds you could save. Nor does it require 70 hours a week, 40-50 hours per week is fine to start with for first year or two !

    • Haha 2

  16. Drilled holes in the wrong place...

    in Hard Baits

    Posted · Edited by gliders

    Just re-read pickadoll ,if it's seriously big and deep ballast holes, surely just fill with dowel or foam ? Then re- balance with new ballast hole ?  much easier and less messy and wont take a huge amount of epoxy if it's 50 big ballast holes . Hope you get it sorted o.k .  ......glider

  17. Drilled holes in the wrong place...

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    If its critically balanced gliders david, I've used closed cell foam or balsa dowel which adds slightest of bohyancy.  Glue in hole leaving enough room to add tiny bit of whatever  lead needed to balance  before filling with your usual filler. It does mean ballast adjusting and tank testing each one though ......glider

    • Like 1

  23. AIRBRUSHES AND COMPRESSORS

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    I use a tool compressor, you can have moisture trap on compressor no problem, I use a small inline trap attached to airbrush and have no issues with mosture. One big advantage I've found no one has really mentioned is, with a big capacity compressor you can turn off compressor when full and used stored air for quite a few lures in silence ....glider

  24. Balsa Bait Lip Slots

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I made a sled and jig for cutting slots in large crank blanks in the square. With flat sided  cranks you can cut slot on shaped lure if needed.  One advantage of  cutting on finished lure is perfect clean finish around slot with no unsightly buildup of multiple epoxy coats around slot . I also planned on using my jig to do this on big jake type lures, just finished making a batch for someone and didn't want to risk it though !  Will be trying it with a few completed lures next batch to see how it goes...

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