gliders
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Posts posted by gliders
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Lurch, I think some guys reckon its stronger because the twisted section is slightly thicker with barrel twist, and therefore has a bigger surface area to glue ,in theory making it harder to pull out . In practice and testing ,I've found it means nothing, a twisted screw eye properly glued in will be almost impossible to remove.......glider
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No doubt ron, if someone did this to me I would be more than angry believe me.....
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I get it 21xdc, just not sure this is the right place for it ....
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Personally I'm not keen on the idea of guy's naming and complaining about specific companies on here, absolutely not doubting problems you had ron , but too easy for guy's with a personal chip on shoulder with some problem with a small company to ruin someone's reputation on Internet forums with no good reason whatsoever. Again, I'm absolutely not suggesting this is the case here ,and fact you never mentioned the companies name suggests to me you are being completely genuine , in my opinion you are correct not to name.....glider
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Just wondered how the guys who tried artresin found it perfomed over time ? How do you rate it against E-tex in terms of durability ?
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Personally I now use spray gun, but used spray cans prior to that, as well as airbrush. I would choose rattle can over airbrush .
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Look just fine whitaker...
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Tiny compressors like that are hopeless dubyap. They cant keep up doing even 1 lure. There are some half decent chinese airbrushes which will be much better and do a decent job . If you think your going to stick at it , buy a reasonable sized compressor if you can. Using a set up like the one in the link could really put you off, Spray cans would be better in my opinion. ..glider
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Bigblue, best replace with quality split rings, the temper/strength will have changed. Be bad to lose a monster!
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Ddl, if you mean foil to use with this method, search for hot stamp foil, also nail transfer foil is easily found, smaller width,usualy an inch wide, lots of holographic nail foil options, and inexpensive. .....glider
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Hi ddl, mostly speed, But spraying gives a nice even coat without brush marks. If time not an issue then you can brush and sand. The bin advanced is better if you wet sand seemingly. ..
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Ddl, this seems to be a water based alternative to normal spirit based bin, unlike normal bin it is also flexible. Seems to have decent reviews when tested by furniture makers,decorators etc. I suspect it will be o.k but have not used it, not sure about adhesion over epoxy or varnish compared to standard bin which I find sticks very well, but according to reviews it should be o.k . I don't brush primer personally, I spray it. Another option is dipping and hanging or putting on lure turner. ....
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Not used bin advanced synthetic shellac ddl, only used standard shellac based bin. ...
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Had a look mark, interesting looking lure. These type of spin baits not really used over here, have toyed with some experimenting with spin props..
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Zambini, search for propionate wood lure sealer on ebay, guy from Slovakia selling it.
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Bob p, that's a method I use a lot on fry feeding trout and other predators over here, we call it fishing on the drop and I make patterns designed purely to be taken on the slow descent when predators crash into fry shoals and then pick off the stunned victims.
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Suspenders can be tricky for sure.
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Sorry dave, posted at same time. Your right, there are so many variables , using archimedes on an unfinished lure will only give an approximation ,which For some lure types may be enough. ..
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Mark,I've done lots of testing to see what happens in various temperatures with ultra slow sink/float and 'neutral ' density gliders. I don't have the results to hand but can probably find them if interested, thing is , as bob kinda alluded to- the difference in lead ballast between each stage, i.e float,suspend and sink is tiny . I tank tested using 3 temperatures of water ,lets say very cold,medium and tepid . I also chilled and heated the lure ,very cold, medium and warmish . The lure reacted differently with each combination, this showed me that if you manage to achieve neutral suspended density it will only do so under the exact temperature conditions when it was tested. The chances of encountering the precise temperature of lure and water again are practically zero. At one point I managed to truly suspend a big glider midwater which was pretty weird looking , almost certain the water had temperature layered and lure sunk in top layer till it suspended /floated on bottom layer. When I mixed the water it sunk . In practice a lure ballasted to sink ultra slowly in a test tank can float when fishing ,which for a slow sinking glider is no good , hence the exact figures from my tests are meaningless - a sinking lure has to sink regardless of conditions ! Dale I get what saying about preferring a crank to rise but for many species a lure that stops abruptly and near suspends in a fishes face can be very effective. ..
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That's the one....
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Ddl, brands will be different for car primer here, I used good quality cellulose based primer with no issues, I use zinsser bin mostly now. I spray using a spray gun ,but comes in cans also. Rui- zinsser works well, though touch dry in 20 minutes , it reaches full cure after 1-3 days . Personally I only use on sealed wood.
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O.k fair enough. ..
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Ddl, you might want to consider spray can primer if doing big muskie size lures, 2 coats of decent white primer and your done. Much quicker /easier and very effective for bigger lures......
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Nice one doubleT , may all your gliders glide ! Now you just need a lead mine....
Defective Blanks
in Hard Baits
Posted
It's a tricky one dale, I'm all for shining a light on the good guy's, nor do I have a dog in this fight. I also get that it's good to let fellow builders know the dodgy suppliers to avoid. Just not sure this is the place to be doing it ? Is it actually allowed on here ? I'll but out on this one because I'm not sure if it's a good or bad thing......