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gliders

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Posts posted by gliders

  1. Hi aulrich, the guy I saw doing it was on a stripers fishing forum, he found various nail varnishes effective. I would imagine these are acetone or cellulose based ? Cant find article at the minute, not tried it yet so don't know how paint,nail varnish,

     and top coat compatibility would pan out. I actually went as far as acquiring a selection of suitable looking nail varnishes but never got round to trying it, mainly because I don't really have a use for this type of variegated pattern. He did produce some striking mother of pearl and marble type patterns, if i get time and can remember where I put things I can give it a shot if it helps, might save you an embarrassing   "it's for fishing lures honest " visit to the ladies department, my local pharmacists are used to me buying some strange things over the years and just nod and say' fishing stuff ' now . 

    • Like 1
  2. Hey guy's, im not far from the Falkirk wheel, being a responsible adult I will not be tempted to attach a big glider or two and take pics , actually if I was just a tad younger and sillier I would be sorely temted to go over at night and  paint the next barge in line for the 1st  morning lift  in a nice firetiger pattern ( obviously with water based paints, see- responsible adult now) If you hear about a man arrested for Falkirk wheel fishing lure shenanigans you'll know I've martyred myself in the name of T.U .....glider

  3. Have seen this done on saltwater lures, guy used various nail varnishes ,pearls and coloured - gave it a swirl and dipped lure, some striking patterns possible, I got hold of  various colours  to try it but not got round to it yet . I know many of you guys seem to be fond of  lady's beauty products so your good to go !  .......glider

  4. Raghubir, using to much heat can hasten the issue but not the likely cause ,the epoxy appears to pull away completely in places and then gathers in lumps. This is because the envirotex is trying to get away from the uncured or contaminated belly paint and has to go somewhere.  Dont over do with the hair dryer /heat , a few passes 2 or 3 times 10 mins apart should be ample.  To save lure for fishing with you can either sand belly lumps without going to deep into paint ,then coat. Or gentle wipe with alcohol then another coat e-tex.  Its tempting to add a realy heavy coat and hope for the best ,this usually makes the problem worse. Purely for fishing with - I would give them a gentle wipe with alcohol  and a light coat of e-tex  and go easy with the hair dryer............glider

  5. Raghubir,  looking at the  pictures the worst problem seems to be the belly - if thats correct then I suspect you are probably using more and/or thicker coats of opaque to hide the foil edges. If thats the case then your belly paint is probably  not completely cured - it's easy to forget you have far more coats of paint there on foil baits. 4 hrs is also on the short side raghubir but not what caused your issue. I assume you coated foiled lure with envirotex before painting ?  Another issue that can occur with envirotex is a reaction with the adhesive used on the foil tape ,but if its been coated already and your painting onto that coat then its probably  uncured  paint . As for saving the lures ,you could try wiping with alcohol and re coating,  if you touch epoxy bare patches with alcohol the paint will be rubbed off. You may have to carefully sand belly to a be bit more even ,repaint the belly and go fom there.  Good luck.....glider

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  6. Thanks dave, I did send message but no reply yet, I would delete my attachments if I knew how. I was going to share my lure turner lure holding method using neodymium magnets cause I thought someone might also find it useful, a few pics explain easily something that sounds more complicated when using only words ........glider

  7. Hey guy's, not the most computer literate!  Tried to post in hardbaits with some pictures to illustrate,  says have reached limit of attachments. I see I can look at all my previous attachments but can't see how to delete, thus allowing me to post attachments again ? Seen old post by vman describing procedure but suspect it's maybe changed since then, thanks.....glider

  8. He stuck with it dave and had many more crashes ! Then decided to learn to drive and in his own words- passed test after 8 attempts purely by luck,  went with him to get third used car, 5 minutes later it was wrote off , came over brow of hill and blinded by low sun and proceeded to drive straight into a wall and hedgerow !  

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  9. Ha ! My 55 year old buddy declared he would take up cycling to work but asked if I would accompany him for a practice cycle as he assured me he had never rode a bike, absolutely never believed him till he went ten yards straight into  a new merc sls ! After an hour and numerous crashes I was worn out laughing, on a serious note ,within a week he had crashed off 2 buses ....glider

  10. Whitaker201, I think you'll find t.u to be a great site, friendly and a great resource with something for everyone. From beginner to grizzled veterans!  Good luck with the crankbait building (there's still time to go back to wire and metal ) ........glider

  11. Woody,I've solved the issue ! Yes ,because it's a heavily pearlised paint mix, I make absolutely sure its bone dry (2days air drying) . This never used to be an issue with the particular pattern I use it on, then it dawned on me, it's not the pearl paint thats causing the issue,its the masking material I use to mask the the underlying colour  that is having a slight reaction once removed and epoxy applied. I had made some replacement stencils using a different material I normaly use because I needed it at the time at short notice, it must be leaving a slight residue or contaminant of some sort. Cut some stencils today from  stuff I normaly use ,painted up a quick test lure , bingo , just stopped turner and finish perfect!  also applied a bit of the other mask to a test lure over plain colour very firmly to exaggerate possible residue issue ,removed and epoxied, bad reaction and finish ! moral-if it works ......................., thanks,glider

    • Like 1
  12. Wondered if any of you guy's ever use an acrylic type clear spray or similar to creat a barrier over paint prior to epoxy clear ? The reason I ask is that one of the pearl paints I mix myself is particularly prone to causing epoxy issues, only happens occasionally and only this particular shade/mix. Im thinking some sort of envirotex friendly acrylic clear might be the simple solution.  Any thoughts or experience? ...thanks,glider

  13. I think dave and anglingarcher are both correct, you can never make everything perfectly symmetrical. However if the glider obviously and consistently favours one way or the other then I think its not symmetrical enough, either the water facing surface shape (front) or tow point,or density /ballast ,or a combination of the three. I have seen this happen on 1 piece gliders with each of the above . Gliders are dead easy !  So I've heard........glider

    • Like 2
  14. Glideb8 ,though I make 1 piece gliders I'm sure the some basic rules apply ,I was going to suggest screw eye placement,everything including tow point and density/ballast has to be as centred as possible or a glider will favour gliding to one side or other. Apart from the anything else make sure your tow point is dead centre and eliminate that, symmetry of shape also helps consistent left/right action. Certainly with 1 piece gliders I find this crucial. Being 2 piece ,as others have said ,there's other issues to consider ! Good luck and keep us posted......glider

    • Like 2
  15. Raghubir, createx opaque white is fairly thick, try different amounts of thinner or water till it shoots,practice on paper or whatever. Also try raising the air pressure and/or try adjusting the needle stop knob at the rear of your airbrush to allow more paint to flow. Really is a matter of trial and error, also, painting the belly of foiled lures to hide the edges of the foil with opaque white is tricky - with the  higher pressure needed for the opaque paint ,it is very easy to get overspray up the sides which is ugly and takes away from the foil effect on the sides. I understand it must be frustrating when you can't easily get various brands of paints to practice with, however if you can get hold of any cheap water- based arylic craft or artists paint ,you can thin these with water and use for practising on paper to save your airbrush paints. Good luck,keep at it and you'll get there. .......glider

  16. Hey raghubir, good to see you on here. I'm sure you'll get some good info, lot's of knowledgeable builders and painters on T.U, as for paints clogging - if you've got nothing else just thin with water till it shoots.........

  17. Thanks travis, I've also used shellac sanding sealer to do the same job ,worked o.k also . I think sanding sealer may have another ingredient to stop sandpaper clogging and allow smooth sanding ? I can buy what you guy's call laquer in larger more cost effective amounts and suspect it would basically be similar to nitrocellulose sanding sealer without the ingredient which makes it a sanding sealer rather than just a sealer if that makes sense.

  18. No ben, with most gliders I make ,each one has to be individually balanced in water,there's  no way round it. With certain glider designs and types its not as crucial ,but with others, it is in my opinion . Basically just a sealcoat to allow balancing, and then epoxy over. ..glider

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