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JD_mudbug last won the day on October 15

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About JD_mudbug

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  1. JD_mudbug

    Is there anyway to fix my lure?

    It looks like moisture can get into the lure through the belly hook hanger. How about trying a vacuum with an attachment on the line tie / hook hangers or leaving the lure in some uncooked rice to dry out the inside? I had a fogged-up squarebill with a transparent paint job. There was no scale foil inside. I think it had a tiny leak at the rear hook hanger. The moisture in the lure didn’t dissipate without some help. I used a small shop-vac attachment rigged up to a small rubber hose with duct tape to suck out as much moisture as I could. After that, I left the lure in a sealed Ziploc bag of rice. I forgot about the lure and found my bag of rice a week later. Then, I sealed the 2 hook hangers. It has been clear for a couple of years.
  2. JD_mudbug

    underwater photography

    I never tried a wire leader. I think a wire leader on the main line to the camera would be o.k. The problem is there would be a wire leader, camera, normal line, and lure dangling from the the rod when you cast. Even a 6 inch wire leader makes it harder to cast. I was paranoid about having the camera sail off into the distance. I took a few practice casts in a clear lake casting to a sandy beach area in 4-6 feet of water to make sure it was castable. That way if disaster happens you can go for a swim and get the camera or grab it with a long handle net. From the camera to the lure, I went with mono on spinnerbaits and cranks and flouro on jigs and soft plastics that would be fished slower. I think a wire leader would stand out too much in the footage. I was using slightly heavier mono/flouro than I would use normally for a particular type of lure, but the pound test was still way below the main line. I wanted a some extra stiffness in the leader line to the lure to minimize the lure getting caught on line or camera during casting. I never had any tangling. I will try using normal pound test next time. The images are clear and you can see the leader line, especially near the camera. The less visible you can make the line in the footage the better. I think a wire would stand out too much in the shot. Plus, if you somehow get managed to get lure snagged you don't want a chance of the knot/line failure occurring before the camera. You want the weakest point to be after the camera. A lure connected by a wire to to camera would transfer a lot of the shock up the line and to camera harness. If trolling, a wire leader to the lure would be very risky. I used a mono leader for that. It was mesmerizing watching the footage. After a lure change, I was sloppy and left a 1.5 inch tag line on the knot at the lure. I just didn't notice I left it too long. It ruined the shot. You could see this tag line sticking out to the side in front of the lure and the drag from the tag caused the lure to run tilted to one side. I didn't realize it and got about 10 minutes of footage of that.
  3. JD_mudbug

    underwater photography

    The vibration from the lures didn't mess up the image. I tried some spinnerbaits, cranks, jigs and got good images from all of them. The tube-shape of the camera keeps it stable. On some lures, I couldn't feel any vibration in the rod. The camera comes in straight and dampens any feel in the rod tip. There were times when a bass slapped at the lure and knocked it to the side a few inches and I had no clue until I saw the footage. When you hook a decent fish, the camera can swing around some during the fight. It makes for some dizzying footage. Just make sure the line to the camera is way stronger than the leader to lure. I used a somewhat of loose drag and didn't hammer home my hook-sets. I was more interested in the footage and wanted to reduce the risk of line/knot failure from a shock/impact. I would use a net or have a partner land the fish. Boat flipping is not a good idea. Using the in-line set up works best. The lure was always in the shot. I also tried casting just the camera weighted to sink to a bed, rock pile, other object and let it sit there. Then, I threw a lure on a second rod to where the camera is. You can make it float and point down and retrieve lures under the camera on a second rod. The 2 rod technique is hit or miss as to whether you get the lure in the shot unless at close range I also just rigged the camera on a pole to see what was under docks and boats. I had it at a 90 degree angle to the pole, held it over the side, and slowly drove down a shore lined with docks to see what was underneath. You do have to get fairly close to the docks ends due to shadows. I would try it first in a clear lake. You will have gauge leader length based on clarity. Make sure you keep track of the leader lengths you use and the conditions so you know what is best to use in a given situation. It's a bit of a learning experience. I did not have much luck using the camera near weeds. The camera seemed to collect a lot of weeds. Long stringy weeds are guaranteed to ruin a shot.
  4. JD_mudbug

    underwater photography

    I have used a Water Wolf as well. I throw it on a swimbait rod with 80 lb. braid to the camera. The camera I used weighed a bit over 2 ounces. Off the lens end of the camera, I tied a mono or flour 18-24 inch leader to the bait. The length of the leader depends on water clarity. You have to use heavy gear to cast the camera and to make sure you don't lose the camera. Occasionally, an aggressive fish, like a pike or big pickerel, will pass the lure and strike the camera. It really is something to see. The different ways fish strike a bait is cool to see. It also nice that you get to see fish approach and turn away. It's great to troll a bait on this set up so you can see what the bottom structure looks like.
  5. JD_mudbug

    Devcon 2 ton problems

    I had the same thing happen to me once. I had just purchased the D2T in the double plunger tube. It got tacky fast and never fully cured. When I compared that ‘new’ tube to another tube of D2T, I could see that new tube had a slight cloudiness to it. I only noticed it when comparing the 2 tubes under good light. It’s possible the D2T you bought ‘new’ was actually an older tube that had been on the shelf for a while or had sat in some warehouse. Maybe it was exposed to a very high or low temperature at some point? I had a new tube go bad before it was opened because I left it in my car for a day in winter. It turned to a very milky color. It never fully cleared up when stored at room temp. I tried it on a piece of scrap and all I got was a gummy mess. I try to buy my D2T in person and compare all the tubes to see if any are cloudy.
  6. JD_mudbug

    Using masking tape

    So, true! This past winter, I decided to make some different types of baits I had never made before. I made so many mistakes including some of the epic variety. I even managed to implode a Shop-Vac when attempting to make my first stencil with a vacuum-form stencil box. It was a great learning experience. Note to self: do not use plastic materials of unknown origin. The only reason I knew about the tape was last year I noticed the different day numbers. I had never noticed those before. I was in the store trying to figure out which would be best for lure painting, making the same rationalization as you. One of the employees in the store saw me looking at the different tapes and told me what the numbers meant.
  7. JD_mudbug

    Using masking tape

    I believe that is incorrect on the masking tape. The 'day' number of the tape indicates the amount of days the tape can supposedly stay on a surface with a 'clean' removal, as long as it is not exposed to sunlight or heat. I use 60 day tape which is very low tack. The lower the 'day' number, the higher the tack, the higher the chance of peeling off the underlying paint. The 60 day tape will have less tack than the 14 day tape. Typical blue painters tape is 14 day tape, relatively high tack. "Scotch 60-Day Ultimate Paint Edge Masking Tape 2480S is a thin, strong, smooth, flat back paper tape that provides straight, sharp paint lines with a low paint ridge, indoors or outdoors. A strong acrylic adhesive holds on contact to most surfaces, yet peels away smoothly and cleanly without residue and fogging, even after 60 days in the sun or temperature exposure of up to 200°F." Scotch Blue Painter's Tape is among the top selling painter's tape in the U.S. for a reason-it's the original blue tape that both pros and DIY painters have loved for more than 25 years. It can be used on a variety of surfaces: walls, trim, glass and metal, and it removes cleanly for up to 14 days and will not cause surface damage within that period, even if it's exposed to direct sunlight."
  8. JD_mudbug

    Need advice on top coating a jointed bait...

    I have used thin rolls of masking tape on some joints. Grainger sells 3M making tape that is only 1/8 inch wide. A 60 yards roll is $2.12 to $3.35 depending on the tape's thickness. I just wrap the tape around the joint a few times. It's also great for adding perch stripes and other details to a bait if you don't have stencils. https://www.grainger.com/category/masking-tapes/tapes/adhesives-sealants-and-tape/ecatalog/N-85cZ1z0fgu0?okey=1%2F8"+masking+tape&mkey=Masking+Tapes+1%2F8"+Tape+Width+&NLSCM=4&EndecaKeyword=Masking+Tapes&searchBar=true&searchRedirect=1%2F8"+masking+tape&sst=subset
  9. JD_mudbug

    Rattle can clear coat problem

    I got a milky result once using a spray can clear when I was spraying the lures outside when the humidity was high. I sprayed 2 more coats on the lures in my basement with a dehumidifier running and the baits cleared up. You could just barely make out the original milky-ness. Maybe the clear had water vapor trapped in it and heating the lure caused the water vapor to off gas?
  10. JD_mudbug

    Soft tails for swimbait

    I have used silicone place mats bought off ebay and a cooking/rolling mat found at a discount store. I found some place mats under $3 each. You get a couple of dozens fins out of 1 mat. They come in a lot of colors. Cut the fin out with scissors or a razor knife for crisper edges. Started using them last year on a half dozen baits. Not a single one has ripped. Flexible and durable and give off a nice tail flap. I recommend pre-punching a hole before putting the pin in in. The mats are stretchy and it can be tough to get the pin to go through them.
  11. JD_mudbug

    3D lure eyes

    I have bought 10 mm and 12 mm eyes from Mountain View Flies in Pennsylvania. They do not have 13 mm. The 12mm fits nicely in the hole made by a 1/2 inch forstner bit. The packages are small so probably not the best place for a large bulk order. http://stores.ebay.com/Mountainview-Flies-and-Supplies?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
  12. JD_mudbug

    Best way to drill into circuit board lips?

    The Storm Arashi Square Bill and Deep Diver have a self tuning line tie. They usually are $9. But, they are frequently on sale for less. I have some of the squarebills and divers. All of the ones I own run true. After a few years of moderate use, I have not needed to tune one. They have good action. In my experience, they don't catch more fish than other lures with the typical fixed line tie. I seem to catch more fish on a standard 2.5 sqaurebill than the Arashi squarebill. I assume the line tie has a hole in the end inside the bait. A horizontal pin passes through that hole so the line tie can freely move side to side so it will find the center when in motion. The hole in the lip is a bit wider than the line tie allowing it to move.
  13. JD_mudbug

    Hand crafted frogs

    I would also guess that they are a hobbyist creations for all the reasons Anglingarcher stated. The BB9 looks like an attempt to recreate the Paw Paw Wotta Frog. The body shape is similar, but the hardware doesn't match up. The Wotta usually has metal diving lip and hooks on the leg ends. The Wotta also has different hardware to connect the legs. As for the BB7/BB9 , the BB might be initials and the numbers might be the maker's 7th and 9th frog attempts/models. Maybe the decedent's initials were BB? If the decedent had a last name that began with a B, the maker could be a relative. If the sale was at a residence, you could find the former owner's name at the registry of deeds/town tax assessor.
  14. JD_mudbug

    Which urethane

    I have used Minwax Wood Hardener as a sealer after reading about it in another post . It works good as a sealer. It will last in the can indefinitely. It is thin and can get into small openings. It is easy to apply just by dipping. I use water bottles with the top cut off or empty Crystal Light tube packages. You can also just brush it on. The longer you leave the lure in the hardener, the deeper it penetrates into the wood. The downside is it if you leave the lure over night in the hardener, it will take a few days to off gas. It does not work as a top coat.
  15. JD_mudbug

    Which urethane

    I used Helmsman Spar Urethane on a few baits in the past before switching to 2 part epoxy. The Spar's durability seemed better than other urethanes. The bait will smell for while which will fade away after a few uses. As MG said, it will amber/yellow over time. I also used it on the supports and decking for my 14' jon boat. I have used the boat for over a decade.