Jump to content

JD_mudbug

TU Member
  • Content Count

    100
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

JD_mudbug last won the day on March 23

JD_mudbug had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

88 Excellent

About JD_mudbug

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

581 profile views
  1. Thanks. I agree on the hook size. I am out of 2/0 to 5/0 trebles. I have been waiting on some 2/0 and 3/0 hooks for a while from overseas. I had to used the biggest I had, 1/0 and short shank 2/0. The white one is so bulbous it needs a 3/0 on the front, maybe even a 4/0.
  2. Pic in the gallery. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/19807-musky-ploppers-and-130-whopper-plopperjpg/ They have varying degrees of bulbosity.
  3. 130 size rainbow trout whopper plopper for size reference.
  4. I have made a couple of the musky plopper baits. On one, I followed this guy's video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqrzyXAfJlA&t=231s I made the bodies myself. The shape is simple to make. One I made was a split body like in the video and epoxied back together with D2T. Another I made was a solid (non-split) body made with a dowel: (Sorry in advance for the length) It was simpler to make than the length of description implies. The only real tricky part was drilling the center shaft hole. That was easier once I found a long 1/8" drill bit a Home Depot. Drill a hole all the way through the center of length of a section of dowel (6" long, 1-3/8" diameter) with a long (1/8") drill bit, I used poplar because it is cheap and readily available at big box stores, shape the piece with a bulbous head and taper to 1/2" diameter tail (razor knife and sand paper) , round off the very end of the tail down to 1/4", cut approximately one third of the dowel's narrow end off for the tail (or use an existing lure for a reference of the lengths of the sections). Front part: superglue a rivet into the nose of the main body, put the glue on the underside of the rivet's lip (do not get glue in the rivet hole, used super glue for a quick dry time), put a .051 loop wire through the rivet (loop will be the line tie), the wire should extend several inches out the back to accommodate the tail section/loop for rear hook/hardware, find someway to brace the front section standing so the loop is pointed down (taped the loop to keep it from dropping and wrapped the front section in a rag and clamped it in a vise), fill the shaft hole with epoxy, slide a rivet down the wire to cap the other end of the shaft hole, rivet head should be on top and will help as a bearing. Once the epoxy is dry, drill a hole mid point of the front section and epoxy in a small lead belly weight, drill eye sockets, add a .092 screw near the belly weight for the front hook or drill a hole to use a cross-pinned swivel for a hook hanger. "...use Spro #4 heavy duty swivels for belly hook hangers, and pass a short piece of sst wire from side to side/cross-ways through the buried eye of the swivel to add some insurance". Mark Poulson, circa 2019 Tail section - cut a slice into the tail section along its length, try to keep the slice depth parallel to the center shaft hole, the cut will be deeper towards the thicker front part of the tail, shallower towards the tail end, do not cut too deep you do not want to breach the center shaft hole, this slice is where the plopper blade will be epoxied in later, coat 1.5 to 2" of the outside of a coffee straw (or small metal tube) with epoxy, leave the ends of the straw un-coated, slide the coated straw into the shaft hole, make sure no epoxy gets inside the straw, a coffee straw is a couple inches longer the the tail section, you should have 1-1.5" sticking out of each end, tape off the thicker end of the shaft hole around the straw with masking tape, pour epoxy down the shaft hole along the outside of the straw from the narrow end and fill the shaft hole like above with front section, let cure, remove tape (sandpaper and razor knife if necessary), trim straw ends flush with tail section, slide a rivet into each end of the straw, use a small amount of super glue or epoxy under the rivet heads to hold in place (again do not clog the straw), let dry, cut a plopper blade out of sheet metal (or buy like I did - below) and curl it with pliers using a whopper plopper or other bait for reference, you can change the curve somewhat after it is epoxied in, epoxy the blade into the slice cut and let dry, you could then drill a hole and cross pin it, but I did not. Finishing - seal the 2 sections, paint, add eyes, clear coat, yet again make sure you do not clog the straw in the tail section, just clear coat to the edge of the rivet heads. Once the 2 sections are dry, add a disc washer - see below (or other small washer) on to the wire behind the front section, this will provide a tiny bit of space between the 2 section in case of an imperfect cut when cutting the body (also acts as an additional bearing between the rivet heads), slide tail section on, slide another rivet on with rivet head facing the tail section, add 1-2 beads, I added 2 to give me a margin for error if I screwed up making the final loop, make final loop and wrap to get the 2 section close together but not too tight or the tail won't spin, if you wrapped too tight and the tail doesn't spin cut off one of the beads with side cutter pliers, add split rings and hooks. They are not too hard to make. Lots of simple steps. You can adjust the bend of the metal blade after it's finished to adjust the sound. Hold the blade stationary with needle nose pliers where it enters the bait and adjust the bend with a second pair of needle nose pliers from the center of the curl. You want to keep the blade stationary near the bait so the clear coat or bait doesn't crack. Tail Blade - https://www.lurepartsonline.com/TallyWacker-Tail For pronunciation, please see the following https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbedV0cPajg Disc washer - https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Disc-Washers You could probably make one from the blank below. They do have a center drilled option. Not sure it if bulbous like the musky plopper type baits. it looks more like a spook type body. https://www.pebblelures.com/product-p/msky001.htm
  5. It reminds me of a lure I bought a few years ago, JLV lures deep diver. They are still sold on Amazon in a few colors. https://www.amazon.com/s?i=merchant-items&me=A1H8JQEX5G83L7&page=6&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1584804636&ref=sr_pg_6
  6. I found some blades from China that will take .092 screws. From Countbass, they sell some on Ebay and some on Aliexpress. They have the specs of the props down near the bottom of the page. They accept Paypal. I ordered from them once and it took around 5 weeks for delivery to northeast USA. These blades are 1.65” and have somewhat pointed tips. https://www.ebay.com/itm/50Pack-Pointed-Propellers-Stainless-Steel-Propeller-Style-Spinner-Blades/162225960153?hash=item25c56bb4d9:g:1o8AAOSwTbJdP7n0 These are 1.34” and have pointed tips. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32761696077.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.17.76a013939UJoKR These are 1.72” and have the round tips. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32840844465.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.31.76a01393hvpqnC These are 0.94” and have one round tip and one pointed tip. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32761798887.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.33.76a01393AyZo3t
  7. Could you use that lure body for a different lure type. That body with far less ballast and a lip would make a great 'Shellcracker' type bait. I have made a couple that size from cedar with ballast just in the front half. They weigh 1 to 3 ounces depending on size and ballast. They are so bouyant that they wake with the rod held up and they dive 2-3 with the rod tip down, making them very versatile.
  8. Unfortunately, most of the props with a .092+ hole are big. https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Stainless-Steel-Prop-Blades-Propeller-Blades-DIY-Topwater-Fishing-Lures-/162710994902 I stumbled across these props from China. These are 1.02 inches long. The hole is .091, just a bit too small. You could expand the hole a hair with a small round file instead of having to drill. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Steel-Precision-File-Set-with-Storage-Case-6-Piece-707476H/207112197 I use this file set a lot. The round file to expand holes. The square file is great for finishing perfect lip slots for 1/8" lexan. The flat and wedge files are great for sanding in tight spaces.
  9. I used these LPO props to make an amazon ripper type bait by putting a clockwise one in front of a counterclockwise one separated by a bearing washer. They will work with a .092 screw. Each prop takes up 1/4" of the screw so you have to account for that in choosing the screw length. The props are 2.5 inches tip to tip. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Chopper-Prop 2.5 squarebill shown for scale.
  10. JD_mudbug

    Wire Size

    Thanks Woodie. Do you know what grade the tig wire you are using is- 304, 308, 316, etc ? I can't find a supply in my area to check out and will most likely have to order it.
  11. JD_mudbug

    Wire Size

    I have not tried tig rod yet. Based on what Eastman said, I am hoping it is softer than the LPO shaft wire. According to an old post, tig rod comes in varying hardness. I just need to locate a welding supply shop near me. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/9762-stainless-steel-wire/ I tried using the LPO .062 and it was brutal to shape. I was barely able to bend it into a safety pin loop for a trolling spinnerbait for pike. We have some big pike in the some of the waters I fish. I've had .040 wire ruined by 40" pike, bent and twisted so bad the wire broke when trying to fix it. I have not had a .040 wire break during a fight yet. For bass in the Northeast, .040 and .051 is strong enough. I have had .051 bent by pike, but I was able to bend it back without damage. Pike thrash a lot during the fight. They usually go crazy in the net. I use a rubber hook-proof net. If a part of the lure gets hung in the holes in the net, pike can can exert a lot of force on it.
  12. JD_mudbug

    Wire Size

    I also use the .051 stainless wire for most of my lures like through-wired lures, whopper ploppers and globe prop lures. For line ties and hook hangers, I typically use LPO stainless .092 magnum screw eyes. On small lures (2.5 squarebill or smaller) , I use the stainless .072 screw eyes. I no longer use thinner diameter screw eyes or brass screw eyes as I have had those break. Occasionally, I use gate hardware screw eyes on large baits (2 oz and up) especially if I can find them in stainless. I find these in the draws in small hardware stores so I can just buy the screws. They typically come in a package with one screw eye and a second screw eye with a long latch hook attached. I don't want to waste money paying for the latch I will never use. The gate hardware screws come in sizes similar to size 206, 208, 210 and 212 screw eyes but the gate screws have a longer thread. I had to pound a nail in a wall stud so I could bend .062 wire around it. I knew that size wire was not for me. I will have to try finding some .062 tig rods. On some really big baits (5+ oz), I would like to use that size wire.
  13. I have done a couple of things on that particular blank. For a fuller skirt, attach a size 2 split ring to the lure tail hanger; attach a size 3 split ring to the size 2 ring; put the the skirt on the size 2 ring with some needle nose pliers (slide it right past the size 3 ring); after the skirt is on, hold the bait head down so the skirt falls to the nose and put your hook on the size 3 ring. The skirt sits on the size 2 ring up against the lure body and is kept on by the larger size 3 ring. For thinner skirts, I just run a tab (or a tab and half tab) of skirt material through a treble hook eye; run the material half way through and fold down; slide a small piece of shrink tubing over and just past the hook eye; shrink the tubing with a heat gun; there will be enough room on the hook eye to attach it with a split ring. Probably best to use marine shrink tubing. But. I have not had any breakage on regular shrink tubing yet. The second method gives the skirt a lot of action as it swings freely with the hook. It does give a smaller profile than the first method as the second method is limited to the number of strands you can get through the treble hook eye.
  14. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/33862-big-lure-holder/?tab=comments#comment-279044 My holder is sort of like Raven's holder. I use scrap wood and L brackets to make them. The eye bolt and swivel allow for manual rotation. Tighten the nut to prevent rotation. Add an eye screw on the side of the end to hang it vertically.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top