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JD_mudbug

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JD_mudbug last won the day on August 27

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  1. JD_mudbug

    Screw Eyes

    I agree with the others (and Engineered Angler) that wire through is best, especially for musky/pike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIEhsMILC08 If you do use screw eyes on big baits, I would also drill slight cup on the bait body after pre-drilling the thread. That way the screw eye gets countersunk a bit and the opening in the eye gets covered with epoxy. You could try Hillman screw eyes from the big box stores. They come in stainless and zinc plated. Sizes 212 to 206 will fit big baits. They don't have as long a thread as the LPO screws. But, the bigger diameter and deeper grooves in the thread provide a lot of holding power. You want the thread to go in a minimum of a half inch. Maybe try a strength test on those like Zimmtex's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkTQanwhnU0 You could also try gate hardware screw eyes. In the big box stores, gate hardware comes in a package with one screw eye and a second screw eye with a long latch hook attached. My small local hardware store has the screws and latches separated in pull out boxes on a rack so you can just buys the screws individually. The gate hardware screws come in sizes similar to size 212 to 206 screw eyes (and larger sizes) but the gate screws have a slightly longer thread. My local store has some of these in stainless. Some boating stores have them in stainless too. I pick through the boxes to find the ones with the longest threads as the length seems to vary from screw to screw. I have several of Mike Shaw's Slammers and it looks like he uses gate hardware screws.
  2. Nice finish. It's annoying when you can't recreate a happy accident. Like RPM said, probably not enough pigment. Could there had been something in your gun after rinsing out the green that hit the lure first when you sprayed the black? Is it possible the green paint wasn't not fully set? I have accidentally got some crackle finishes and splotchy finishes when the underneath paint was not fully dry when I thought it was. I put on the top paint evenly. The underneath paint still has a bit moisture causing the top to pool to random spots. Sometimes the top paint semi-dries first. Then, the underneath paint finishes drying and pulls the top paint to a crackle appearance.
  3. I usually go with trial and error. I find that to be quicker. I bought some 1/4” diameter solid lead wire sinker coil off amazon which you can cut to any length. I also made some ballast weights for bigger lures by drilling a bunch of holes partially through scrap wood with 3/8” and 1/2" forstner bits. I drill the holes at varying depths. I melt some old saltwater lead sinkers in a big heavy spoon with a propane torch and pour the lead into the holes (do it outside, wear a mask, gloves, etc.). Just don’t use any hole that goes through the wood. When the lead cools, tap the wood upside down and most fall out. If the weights stick you can pry them out with a screwdriver. You can do some light filing to make the weights smooth. You end up with various length cylinder lead weights in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch diameters to use as test ballast weights that will slide right into ballast holes in a lure drilled with those bits. I seal the lure and attach test weights with rubber bands or hot glue which is easy to scrape off. If I am sure of the ballast location but not the weight, I will drill the ballast holes and then seal the lure. I can drop the weights into the ballast holes and cover it with 2 pieces of scotch tape in an ‘X’ or rubber bands. I have a tub of different length weights. I can swap out weights off different lengths for testing. In my notes/lure body templates, I will mark the weight location and size (ex. 3/8 diameter weight that is ½” long). I also weigh the weight before I seal it in the body just to have that info too. Just make easy lob casts or drag the lure through the water down the shore/along a dock. Check to make sure any tape/rubber bands are in position in between casts.
  4. JD_mudbug

    My first Wobbler

    Well done on the lure and the video.
  5. Thanks. I like a tail fin that will collapse somewhat for the best shot at a hook up on a tail strike. I have some fins made from a pulley belt off an old piece of machinery. The belt fins only last a couple of years but the belt was a free trash find. Coffee can and nut can type covers are decent too. I try to save any flexible plastic stuff from the packages of the stuff I buy normally. I cut off any flat sections to build up a stash of different colors. My favorite fins so far are the silicone place mats because they cut easy with scissors and last a long time.
  6. For easy soft fins, you can cut them out of a flexible plastic containers (margarine tubs, milk jugs, etc) or cut them out of plastic notebook covers. You can also make them out of paint brush bristles. Because of pure simplicity, my favorite so far is cutting them out of silicone place mats which you can get on Ebay. They come in a bunch of colors and are durable. I still haven't found a way to add detail to the silicone mat fins. You can draw lines/spots on them with some sharpie type markers which last for a while. The ink eventually washes off the fins. If you are going into carving a lot of detail like scales, you should be thinking about using the carved body without cuts as a master to make a mold. You can them cast multiples of the body to experiment with different joints, joints locations, lips, lip angles, amount of ballast, and ballast location. Just remember to take notes of what you did so you can repeat successful lures. I agree with the others who have said you should complete it. I have made numerous duds. But, those baits gave me the chance to experiment with attempted fixes. One of the first lures I made did not come out the way I wanted it. I totally botched it. The lip shifted when the epoxy I put in the lip slot was curing. I didn't drill the eye sockets equally on both sides as the forstner bit walked on the second side. I completed the bungling by painting the lure before the sealer was completely dry and the paint came out mottled. I finished it anyways. I had decent action but ran to one side. I tried tweaking the line tie, hook hangers, slightly shaving the lip on one side to no effect to make it better. I finally drilled a small hole in the side of the head and jammed a piece of nail weight in the hole and resealed the hole. The lure ran great and has been my most successful self-made lures even though it is embarrassing to look at. I am stubborn and save my duds. Periodically, I go back and try something to make them work.
  7. I usually draw the center line one of 2 ways. The first way is sort of like Dave said. I lay the pencil horizontally on something I have hanging around the shop. For example a 1/2" center-line, I use a scrap piece of 1/4" trim board, with 2 pieces of scrap sheet metal stacked with the pencil on top. I sometimes have to use index cards, cardboard or whatever I can find that is flat to get the pencil at the right height. Trace the bait around the pencil, flip the bait and repeat for the 2 lines. Try to get the pencil to the height of one of your center marks and a lot of times the two tracings will be on top of each other. The other thing I use, once I get a good center mark at each end, is a plastic notebook cover. I cut the cover off a notebook and cut it into pieces preserving the straight edges. You can get a piece with an 11" straight edge from the side of the cover and two six to seven inch straight edges from the top and bottom of one cover. To make them easier to use cut the straight edge sections into whatever lengths you want depending on the size baits you make . The plastic cover material is flexible enough to conform to the curve of the bait and hard enough to use to trace a line between the center marks and each end. I once had a flexible plastic ruler that I used for that. I lost it somewhere, probably buried in a tool box. Make sure you note where you start the tapering on a bait. If your bait has the action you want, you can put marks on the side template indicating where to begin tapering. Just trace those marks around the corner a bit once you have the side profile cut out. You can then make 2 marks equally distance from the center mark on the ends. You can use the plastic straight edge to make a straight line form the tapering mark to the end of the bait.
  8. For the hook tangling, you could move the front hanger back just a bit as long as you have the room so the 2 hooks don't hook each other. For the front hook, you could also go with a short shank treble or an EWG treble that has the points tipped in a bit . You can add a Suspend strip or wire to the hook shank if the difference in hook weights affects the action. You could also use a stiffer leader like a heavier flouro to keep the lure from swinging towards the line. That switch to a heavier rod may help with the tangling too. If the medium rod was under powered for the glide's weight, you might have been doing a saftey lob cast with more of a flick at the end to prevent the rod breaking. This can cause the lure to cartwheel and tangle more. Etex should be easier to repair than D2T. Etex is thinner. On your glide after you repair the paint, I would put the epoxy on on the damaged area first to try to even out the surface. Then as Mark said, use fine sandpaper to scuff a slightly larger area. Then put on a thin coat of epoxy over the scuffed area. When I do a repair job, I look for a place to put on the epoxy where the patch will show less. I would start that final bit of epoxy at the black paint line and go to the belly. The paint line will hide the edge of the new epoxy. It's so much easier to do on a yellow perch paint job. I mostly use D2T because I have had good luck with it and my local hardware store carries it at a good price. Denatured alcohol works good as thinner. I have never used acetone as a thinner. I have seen posts on here where people have used 100% pure acetone as a thinner. I was thinking on switching to a UV clear just for the ease of use and speed. No mixing would be nice. I have been too lazy lately to build a curing box. I may have to give the Kleer Kote a shot at that price.
  9. It looks like an Allcock Nature Series lure made by Samuel Allcock Co. from the U.K . They were a fishing tackle distributor that also made some lures. I would not fish it. It could be worth some money. Hardy Brothers lures, James Gregory lures, and Gutta-Percha made somewhat similar lures in the U.K./europe.
  10. Nice lure. I think it comes down to personal preference. I have used Etex and D2T. As Mark said, Etex is more flexible than D2T. My lures cleared with Etex get punctured by teeth more frequently than D2T. I have had small pickerel under 20” puncture Etex. Some of my Etex lures look like they have been hit by miniature machine gun fire. On the positive, I have not had a chunk of Etex break off yet. Any pieces that have broken off have been very small, usually because of multiple punctures in close proximity. D2T seems more resistant to toothy fish damage and hook rash. But when it does break, the damage is worse than what happens to Etex. Wood swelling is more likely to crack D2T than Etex. I once had a 1” x 1” piece of D2T break off from a pike bite. I have had another chunk of D2T the size of a nickel break off. The damage to D2T can be catastrophic when a rock or bridge piling darts in front of your lure mid-cast. Small pike can be just as deadly to lures as the large ones. The small ones don’t have the power of the big ones. But, the small ones make up for it with their finer teeth. I have only lost clear coat and paint. I have not had any of the lure body (the wood) break off. I use either superglue or wood hardener for sealer to prevent damage to the lure body itself. Nothing is bullet proof. Also, it looks like you are getting some hook point nicks around the rear treble which may have cause the damage when the lure landed. You can increase your lure’s chance of survival by going to a T-type treble like Owner ST-35 trebles. Decoy used to make T trebles. I don't know if the Decoy trebles are still made. You can also make your own T trebles by bending a treble with a softer wire. Be careful doing this as it can be dangerous, use gloves, pliers, and safety glasses. Owner ST-36 trebles are too stiff to try to bend into a T. I will save you from leaning that mistake the hard way.
  11. I believe piano wire vibrates more. The downside is that loses it shape more easily and thus requires more tuning.
  12. Like Hillbilly said, you could hit the lure with a hair dryer/heat gun to warm it, dry the paint fully, and blow the dust off before clear coat. Also, you could build a quick lure holder like the one I made in this post. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/33862-big-lure-holder/?tab=comments#comment-278455 Put an eye screw in each end on the side so you can hang the holder on a nail with the lure nose down or nose up. You could just stand it on end and fasten it with tape to something so it won't fall over. Clear coat another big lure on the holder. Hang the holder nose down for 5 minutes, then nose up 5 minutes, maybe do that process one more time. If the epoxy comes out fine and all the other conditions are the same, that would have to mean there is something wrong with the turner.
  13. I have used D2T on similar musky blanks. So, I don’t think the type of plastic is the problem. I don’t think the vibration from the rotisserie is the problem either. Many people use rotisserie motors for turners without problems. Mine has a slight vibration to it. I don’t think they have the power to create vibrations drastic enough to effect epoxy curing. In theory, I guess massive vibration could cause the epoxy to heat up and cure before it has time to level out. But, I doubt that is achievable from a rotisserie unless it defective. I have seen other posts on here where people have sprayed Createx clear as a mid-coat. I have never done it. You could also use a rattle-can acrylic clear and not have to worry about cleaning your airbrush. Rustoleum X2 clear is pretty good. I have used that as final coat on small baits. With 2 part epoxies, improper mixing is always a suspect. You had good luck on smaller baits. Maybe not enough mixing when doing a larger batch on the larger lures? You could add a couple of drops of denatured alcohol to thin it a bit and get the components to mix more thoroughly. I seem to have better luck mixing with a plastic stick. I usually cut off half the handle of the paintbrush that I apply it with and use that for a mixing stick. Also, you could try doing the lure in several small batches, one for each section. On really big lures, I do a small batch to coat the eyes, gill plate, around the lip, basically the first 2 inches of the bait. Then, another batch for the rest of the front section. Then check for missed spots under a bright light. Then, a small batch for each section afterwards. What is the rpm of the turner? It could be too fast or slow? 5-8 rpm seems to be good. I make mostly large lures and sometimes you need weight distributed evenly around the turner. When a heavy lure reaches the top of the rotation, make sure it doesn’t sling downwards faster than when it is on the upswing. Another problem with larger lures on a turner is they pivot and rock on its long axis. I have to put something on one of hook hangers to a fixed point to prevent the rocking/flopping (loop a rubber band around the main shaft, tape it so the wrapped part so it doesn’t move, bend a small piece of wire/paperclip into an S shape, hook the S on the rubber band and stretch to the hook hanger). The fast down rotation and rocking/flopping will prevent leveling I mostly use D2T as it is pretty forgiving. So, I don’t know about your other clear coats. As for D2T, 50% Humidity is at the bottom end for D2T. It works best at above 50% humidity. Maybe try a humidifier. Also 70 degrees is good for D2T, 72 is optimal. When you get below 68, its spreading and leveling are decreased. It could be combination of both the humidity and temp being a bit low.
  14. I put a rivet on the wire, super glue/epoxy the rivet stem in the body) to prevent wearing on the lure body, put on an LPO disc washer or a bead on the wire for a bearing, put on prop, then another bead (sometimes I will put 2 beads on here- see below) , make a loop with round pliers or a nail in a vise, when making the loop leave a small gap between the loop and the last bead, put the looped part of wire vertically in vise, use vise grips or needle nose to grab tag end of wire, wrap the tag end around the main shaft of wire working from the loop back towards the lure body, wrap until desired tightness, clip off the remaining tag end. The extra bead is a precaution. I use a hollow metal bead for this. If I wrap the wire too tight and the prop doesn't spin, I cut off the extra bead with side cutter pliers. Once I got the hang of it, the extra bead wasn't necessary. Instead of the extra bead, you could make the gap a bit larger than necessary and just add an extra wrap or 2 to take up the space. The gap between the last bead and the loop depends on the the wire gauge. You need a 1/8" gap to get 2 wraps of .051 wire. Here are a couple of videos I found useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsRDGgXnWbU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtYVmGtfx3s This last one I followed to make a flaptail lure. No loop on end, just a hanger for a flap tail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fzSQgy_6QU
  15. I use a sharpie a lot just because of the convenience. In addition to trout dots, they make nice crappie marks. As Seakarp suggested, I have also taken a sheet of plastic and punched holes in it to make quick stencils. Punch holes with just about anything (or lay on scrap wood and drill) and use a razor knife to flush cut the underside if the stencil gets slightly dented in around a hole. I also sometimes use those round dot stickers from walmart found the office/school department to make dots. They are like masking tape. You get 500 stickers for a couple of bucks. I paint one color, let dry/heat set, then put the dot stickers down, paint a second color, peel the stickers off with an Xacto knife and you get a dot of the underneath first color. It's useful for making those dot-within-a-dot brown trout spots. Paint silver, put down dot stickers, paint dark metallic bronze or whatever trout back color you prefer, peel stickers to reveal a silver dot, then use a black sharpie to make a smaller black dot inside the silver dot. I have a hole punch that makes a small star. I can use it to punch small stars out of masking take. I have used the little tape stars to make stars on a lure like the dot method above. I could have done the same by buying star stickers.
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