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About JD_mudbug

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  1. I made a big lure holder out of scrap wood and cheap L brackets. There is a description and picture of it in the post titled 'big lure holder'. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/33862-big-lure-holder/?tab=comments#comment-279044 Works well for me on jointed baits too. To cover the joint, I wrap a rubber band or 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch wide painters tape from Grainger.
  2. T Trebles

    Owner has a hook that is close to a right angle T. The hook is the ST-35. It's a short shank and comes in sizes 1, 2, 4, and 6 so far.
  3. Avid bass tackle

    I ordered several different types of blanks (glide baits, rats, swim baits, cranks) from Avid, around 2 months ago. I received them quickly. I only ordered items that were in stock. The blanks were very good quality. Avid is one of the few places I have been able to find larger blanks.
  4. big lure holder?

    Hi FishCandy, When you click on the link, it's says - Google. 404. The requested URL is not found on this server. Jim
  5. Chrome Eyes 5/8"

    You're welcome. I knew I had seen them somewhere in the past couple of days.
  6. Chrome Eyes 5/8"

    How about these? Stinson 5/8. Pricey. https://www.etsy.com/listing/487208791/real-eyes-realistic-3d-lure-eyes-58-64 I was just looking for snake/slit pupil type eyes and finally found what I was looking for. After seeing your post, I am trying to remember the sites I was on where I came across chrome eyes.
  7. Chrome Eyes 5/8"

    I don't know if this will help. LPO has 3D chrome eyes that are 1/2", not quite 5/8". http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Lure-Eyes_10/3D-Chrome-Eyes.html

    I prefer snaps in most cases just for the convenience of being able to change lures quickly. I find it difficult to tie knots in cold weather. I also don't like the possibility of the line slipping into the gap of a split ring where the ring is a single layer. I only use snaps that have a rounded end at the lure line tie so the lure can move freely. The snaps I use also have a hook bend at the end of the clasping part so it won’t be pulled open. If I am targeting larger species like pike or striper, I will use a snap like the Decoy Egg Snap. I have yet to see one of those fail.
  9. Next tool

    I agree with a dremel and a sander. Making a lexan diving bill is so much easier with a sander.
  10. big lure holder?

    This holder is set up for 2 lures. The lure in the picture is a 6 inch popper. Swivel snap wired to the L bracket on the left. Eye bolt with rubber band and snap on the right. 1 inch by 3 inch scrap wood. You can also put an eye screw on the side of one the ends to hang it vertically for drying. I recommend setting it up for 2 lures at the most as would be hard to paint lures in the middle. If the lure is 8-12 inches I only put one lure on it at a time.
  11. big lure holder?

    I took a piece of scrap wood that was 1” thick by 3” wide. Make the board around 3-4 inches longer than the lures you will be painting. I screwed an L bracket at each end of the board, down the center of the end. I got 4 L brackets with screws for $2.60 at Walmart. The backside of the board will lay flat on a table. The L brackets will stick up on the top side at the ends. I wired a swivel snap to the top hole in one L bracket that was sticking up. I put a small eye bolt held with a nut through the top screw hole in the opposite L bracket with the eye towards the middle. I threaded the nut on tight but making sure the bolt would still spin. I got the eye bolt for 50 cents at a local hardware store. To paint a lure, I clip the lure’s nose to the swivel snap. I put a regular snap or paper clip bent into an S on a rubber band. I run the rubber band through the eye bolt and then back through the rubber band. I attach that snap to the tail hook hanger. The rubber band will hold the lure tight, even if it is jointed. You can rotate the lure by spinning the threaded end of the bolt and the swivel snap on the other end will allow the lure to rotate. I am sure there are better things to use. But, this was cheap enough to make a few of them. You could use almost anything like flexible wire and an alligator clip to re-MacGyver the rubber band and snap. Sorry, I am having phone issues and can't get a pic posted.
  12. Australian lures

    I am guessing you don’t hear more about the banana style lures is that they don’t sell well in the US. Those baits look a bit funky and ‘old-fashioned’. They typically don’t have the better paint jobs that other baits have. I still use the Heddon Magnum Tadpolly and Clatter Tad (rattling model). They have a very strong thumping action, great for murky water. It comes through cover well because the belly hook is shielded by the curve of the lure. It backs out of most snags because the rear is bulbous and the whole back (top-side) of the lure has a smooth curve to it. The lip is part of the body which also reduces the chance of snagging. Once stopped, the bait floats up slightly away from the caster freeing itself. Unfortunately, it was discontinued. There are some banana style baits around like the Lindy River Rocker, Rapala Tail Dancer, Reef Runner, and Flatfish. I think the key to making one would be to weight the lure so it floats rear-end up at around a 45 degree angle. With the smooth slope of the back and weighted properly, it should back out of many snags.
  13. Ballast hole / adding weight

    I still use this mod on occasion in deep water where I am trying to get a bait to suspend/sink and run deeper than normal. As better suspending and deep diving baits have come on the market in recent years, I use it less and less. I have also also drilled holes in the back (top) of crankbaits to add or remove rattles and replug the hole. I have heard people call it the crankbait ‘drill and fill’. Some crankbaits from the 70s-80s came with holes in the bodies and a small cylindrical sponge. You would soak the sponge in attractant and put the sponge in the hole in the lure.

    If you are going to use a pool to test lures, you could hang paper clips or some wire on the split rings instead of hooks. If you have a good scale that weighs fractions of an ounce, you could exactly match the weights of the hooks.

    I have found a few spots that never seem to freeze even when the lake ice is over 2 feet thick: winding rivers, a channel that connects 2 lakes, pools below dams, town docks/marinas that use bubblers to prevent freezing. If the winter is a brutal one, those openings do shrink some. But, I can usually get in a decent cast. Some rivers only get a skim coat of ice right along the bank. You have to be careful when there is snow on the ground because you can't tell where the land ends and the river begins. I usually break up this thin ice with a stick and walk out a couple of feet in knee high boots to make my casts. There are probably some areas like that near you. It's just a question of finding them. If there is a bait shop in your area that sells live shiners for ice fishing, you may want to ask them. There is a bait shop in my area that keeps shiner traps out in the local rivers in the winter. I am not expecting to catch bass in these areas. I am just looking to see a lure's action and how it runs. A pike or pickerel is possible, maybe a river smallie.