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JD_mudbug

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Everything posted by JD_mudbug

  1. Etex seems to be one of the more sensitive epoxies. I don't have the best luck with it. Don't forget to check for high humidity as well as temp. High humidity can affect the curing of some epoxies. Etex cures best at below 50% humidity. I was surprised at how much humidity there was in my basement during winter. When using Etex, I run a dehumidifier. https://www.eti-usa.com/sites/eti-usa.com/files/bulletins/Envirotex-Lite-Professional-Tip-Sheet2.pdf Lately, I have started using D2T more just to carry me through until I stop procrastinating and build a UV setup. D2T seems to be more
  2. You might be able to find a black metallic power paint that matches the black nickel blades. I know it is available. I just don't know if you can get a small container to test for matching. It is usually sold in large containers for car parts. I use metallic black nail polish or just a regular black with a glossy clear like epoxy on my bodies. I only have to make a few so that doesn’t help you. Paint will hold up much better on the body than it will on the blade. Paint on a blade will end up wearing down eventually. There is just so much rotation and a thin edge that the paint wears off t
  3. I have painted spinnerbait blades, Colorado sz 3-6, willow and Indiana sz 4-7. They worked fine but I did keep the paint thin and those are bigger blades. Some have a thin coat of spray clear on top of the paint and they still spin fine. A size 1 blade is fairly small. If the paint goes on too thick, it may be hard to get the blade spinning. Have you taken a look at the painted French blades or the black nickel French blades sold by the usual suppliers? Just buying the blades may be cheaper than buying the spray gun and paint, plus it saves the labor. I like the black nickel Fr
  4. You’re welcome. I have seen a few posts lately from people new to lure making. It’s nice to see. A couple of decades ago when I really started trying to make lures, I was usually disappointed my lures did not look like the masterpieces you see on this site or the hand-made lures I would see at fishing expos. I found painting in particular to be frustrating to do well. My painting skills have improved over time. I am even proud of some of my paint jobs now. They still don’t look like masterpieces. But, they catch fish. I just want some of the new people to know your lure doesn’t hav
  5. I have only used the skirt hubs a few times. I got the skirt on the hub using 3-pronged skirt making pliers.They may have been called skirt expander pliers. The company that made them was called Skirt Master. I tried finding a link and could not. They may have gone out of business. That would be a shame. I like that tool. Give Jann's and Barlow's a look. They sell skirt making pliers. Barlow's is out of stock at the moment. Not the same as the 3-pronged pliers, but they should be able to do the job. https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/skirts-material/088456030048.aspx You may want to
  6. This is a tale of multiple ‘happy accidents’ making a memorable lure. I have a bond with this lure that is tempting me to not retire it, even though it belongs on the wall now. My favorite lure is one I call Dicky Moe after the whale in a Tom & Jerry cartoon. The cartoon whale was the first thing I thought of when the lure was finished. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bttiQVVweJE It is all white, 9.75” long, and weighs 3.1 oz. without the hooks. The bait came out longer than expected because I forgot to take into account the joint gaps would add close to an inch of length
  7. I use mostly Lexan (polycarbonate). I know Lexan is just a brand name. It is easier to type and is shorter than Makrolon. In addition to the fish species, I also look at the size of the bait. If I make a 10" 3 oz slammer type bait for bass, I am still going to use a thicker 1/8" lip. That size bait will crack a thin lip when it hits the water on the cast. Generally, I go with .093" Lexan for small lures 4" to 6.5" usually under 1.5 ounces. I go with 1/8" (.125") Lexan for bigger lures 6.5" to 11" that range from 1.5 to 3.5 ounces. For lures bigger or heavier than those, I go with 3/16" Le
  8. If you don't have money for a band saw, you can make the rough wood cuts with handsaws and the jigsaw to get the shape close enough to finish with the belt sander. I use the end of the sander belt for curves. There are lots of different handsaws for $8-15. You probably already have some. I started off with 2 like the ones below and still use them. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-flush-cut-saw-62118.html https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-14-5-in-Deluxe-Clamping-Miter-Box-with-14-in-Saw-20-600D/100034395 If you are comfortable with the Dremel for lips, keep using it. Just st
  9. Welcome aboard. 1. Dave is right. A band saw and belt sander make Lexan lips a lot easier to make. I use a bench top belt sander that also has the side sanding wheel with a shelf. If you can’t tool up, I would take a look at pre-made lips that are sold by numerous suppliers. Pre-made lips come in a lot of sizes. You can file/sand them down to change the shape a bit if you can’t find the exact dimensions you are looking for. This way you can focus on your designs and get to making lips when you can get the tools. I have cut Lexan with shears but it usually messes up 1/8” (or more) around
  10. Another thumps for Mark's idea. Mark, I know you posted this tip a while ago. It has made my lure making easier. You can get a near perfect cylinder that fits the ballast hole tightly. It will reduce the margin of error in Travis' formula caused by irregular ballast weights made with wood molds or ballast poured in a drilled ballast hole. In a pinch, if Bass Pro is out of the coil lead, you can use the XPS finesse weights as a substitute . They do have a hole through the middle that can be filled with wire. The 1/2 oz finesse weights are 1-1/16" long and have a diameter of 5/16". The
  11. I bought some of their painted Colorado blades: chartreuse with white stripe, red with white stripe, chartreuse with red diamonds. The quality is decent, nothing spectacular, but good for the price. The chartreuse & white stripe and the red & white stripe Colorado blades were nickel on the backside. I had to give the back side a quick buff with a microfiber cloth to get them to shine. I use Nu Finish Scratch Doctor car polish for blade cleaning. After a quick buff, the nickel finish is pretty good. The chartreuse with diamonds blades had a back side that was painted chartreuse wit
  12. Welcome to the site. I mostly fish freshwater and mostly make hard baits. A few times a year, I fish saltwater from piers, jetties, or just off shore in MA, NH, and ME. I don’t have as much SW gear as FW so I bring several bags of FW plastics with me when fishing SW. I use smaller 4” and 5” grubs and shads for down-sized bucktail jigs. 10” and 12” (and bigger if you can find them) ribbontail worms work as an eel imitator. I have had luck with black and other dark colors. I have always thought a big white, pearl, or silver ribbontail or a laminate to resemble a sand eel would work
  13. I had a few Sugar Shads and never had much luck with them. I had more luck with the Cordell Super Spot in 1/2 oz and 3/4 oz. The bigger Cordell Hot Spot and King Spot with the one large knocker is great too.
  14. I get smooth wire tags end by over-wrapping a bit, pulling the tag end back around a bit to clip it as close as I can with side cutters (or a mini-bolt cutter for .051 wire), hitting the cut end with a file to clean off any burrs, and then squashing the tiny tag end down with needle nose pliers. The overwrapping gives it that pre-bend for the squash down.
  15. I have a couple of spinnerbaits with double french blades. I would rate the blades as a bit less likely to catch weeds than an Indiana. They doesn't slip through weeds like willows, but they are not as bad as a Colorado blades. A little wiggle of the rod tip coming through the grass usually allows it to come through without getting clogged up. On a spinnerbait, the French blades spin with a tighter axis than they do on an inline. That could be do to their being 2 of them in series. The smaller front french blade blocking water from the back blade. The head is a 3/4 oz hidden weight L
  16. It's a trade off between how easy it is the to get it to spin right away and thump. The quickest to start will be the French, then Indiana, olympic, then Hildebrant, last would be Royal. I seemed to have difficulty getting the royal to spin on an inline (great on a spinnerbait though). Unfortunately, the least thump follows the same order. If I had to pick just one for overall fishability, I would still take the French. If you cast right next to a target, the French will start immediately. Other blades may take up to a foot or two to get spinning and be out of the strike zone. If you thro
  17. I personally don’t like the heavy .040 blades on inline spinners unless the lure is a big musky bucktail type lure (size 7 and up blades). The .040 blades are harder to get spinning at the start of a retrieve. The heavy blade is much easier to get spinning on a spinnerbait than an inline spinner. You need the extra thickness of a .040 blade for musky bucktails because they are far more likely to bend a .025 blade. The .025 blades are fine for bass inlines and easier to start on the retrieve. An inline will not get the same vibration as a spinnerbait. On a spinnerbait, a blade is at the
  18. You could also try double hooks on the belly like a Mustad 7982 or 7825. Owner and Gamakatsu make a double hook too. It seems like they would cause very little if any rash. I have seen them in sizes up to 5/0. I don't think heavy musky rings like Wolverines or Rasco XH or XXH would slide out. But if it looks like they might, you could use a piece of heat shrink tube on the shank. I have not tried them yet on hard baits.
  19. The Owner ST35 come in size 6 up to 2/0 at TW which fit a good range of baits. The ST35 in 2/0 are bit bit bigger than other 2/0 hooks I have. The 2/0 is really somewhere between a 2/0 and 3/0. I think the Decoy T-S21 come in sizes 8 to 1/0 but they can be hard to find. They used to make up to 3/0 but I haven't seen any 2/0 or 3/0 in a while. I knew someone who used to travel to Japan who was able to get them for me. Mustad short shank KVDs EWG come in sizes up to 3/0. The Mustad 3X Triple grip go up to 7/0. Proberos 35647 trebles come in 8 to 3/0 (and maybe larger sizes) but y
  20. Your welcome. Google the Aquasonic Chatterbox and Rogers Vib-R-Fin for a couple of other similar lures. You may want to make one with multiple line ties to offer different actions, one down low and one up high, like the Drifter Believer. I haven't made many lipless baits of the typical tight swimming vibrating kind. I have made some Bass Oreno and AC Plug type baits and changing where the line tie is on the sloped face changes the running depth and tightness of the wobble.
  21. Hook points will wear through D2T eventually. D2T is one of the hardest and thickest topcoats out there. The only real solution I have found is to minimize the hook points scraping against the the lure. I will sometimes use nail polish or thinned epoxy to fill in a hook rash groove. That only extends the longevity some. Best to do that before it gets through to the paint. I have been switching over to T-type trebles (Owner St-35, Decoy T trebles) for belly mounted hooks. Those type of hooks reduce hook rash. When you put the hook on, make sure the flat side is against the lure. You can be
  22. There are a bunch of different types of lipless crankbaits. A flatfish is just one type of many different types of lipless cranks. The one in your pic was a common style years ago similar to the Heddon Bayou Boogie, Pico Chico, Storm Whiz Bang, Buckeye Shad Lipless Crank. Poe's also made a lipless back in the day similar to your pic. Although some of the older style baits are still being sold, that older style seems to have fallen out of favor since the Rattle Trap type baits gained in popularity. Your pic does have the line tie lower than most of the older baits. The pictured lure'
  23. Another vote for strip the whole bait in that situation. The paint is lifting from your bait. It is better to strip it, allow some drying time, and restart. Paint lifting could be caused by several things: water got in the wood and it swelled, the seal coat wasn't dry or didn't off gas, something on the lure prevented the paint form bonding. Whatever the cause of the lifting, it won't get better by a touch up. I do a touch up where the paint and clear coat are bonded well but got chipped from say a rock impact, fish teeth, or a hook point. Once the chip occurs, I try not to use the lure a
  24. There is a pinned post with a long list of suppliers. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/34165-crankbait-blank-suppliers/ In no particular order, I have had the best luck with Predator, Dinger, Shelts, and LPO.
  25. I made the stencil box based on info in past posts on TU. Basically it's a wooden box. Mine is about a foot long on each side. The seams are sealed with duct tape/wood glue/silicone or whatever you have to prevent air leakage. The top has a bunch of small holes drilled through it around the center around a half inch apart. One side of the box has a hole cut out to fit a shop vac hose. You put a lure on the top over the holes, put a plastic sheet over the lure that a extends around the lure by a couple inches and heat the plastic sheet with heat gun. Make sure to remove any protective fil
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