Jump to content

Bad Mullett

TU Member
  • Content Count

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Bad Mullett

  • Rank
    New Member
  1. I also use a calligraphy pen but use black or white (depending on the lure color) air brush paint which is kept in a separate small glass bottle. Same as above I once used sharpies but had issues with the ink running depending on the top coat.
  2. Can Wolfcreek Lure Epoxy be purchased in the US?
  3. I also have been making resin baits for years and continue to have similar issues but have learned to work with them. I have never tried the vaccum mold so I can't help there. I continue to have the bubble issue when making baits, which usually occurs in the same spot within a specific mold. When this occurs I just use a small hole punch to create another spru hole and this usually improves the issue with that mold. When I do have a cavity in a lure it is filled with the next run of baits by placing an uncured drop of resing in the cavity. I wish I could pour the perfect bait without any imperfections coming out of the mold but have been unable to do so. Prior to learning about resin baits I would hand carve lures, which also involved a lot of sanding. This was very time consuming. Even though there is often some work with a lure out of the mold I am able to make so many more versus hand carving and therefore have accepted the issues. The dry spot that you refer to appears to be the same issue I have with my first coat of epoxy. Recently I posted about this issue under "primer for resin lures". I think that was the tag. I have the same issue with the first coat of epoxy. For the past several years I put a coat of epoxy on the lure before painting and then a final top coat and never have the dry spot in the final finish. This is an extra step but gives a very smooth surface for painting. I do lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper as it seems to help the paint stick better. Jim
  4. Angus, Thanks for the reply. Is the automotive primer a rattle can or air brush application? Jim
  5. Thanks for the reply Mark. I did once with bad results. Had some in at 100 degrees that were going to spend about an hour but the wife came along soon thereafter not knowing about my project and set the oven at a much higher temp for something for supper. Think we had to throw out dinner but can't remember if it was the resin fumes or not?The short time at the higher temp cracked the resin. I will try again. For the guys that dip wood baits in primer, does anyone know what primer is used?
  6. Need some guidance on a primer to dip resin baits. I have been building resin baits for close to 8 years and build primarily top water chugers for bass and jerk/twitch/glide baits for speckled trout. I have a problem that is recurring less and less but still happens, that is bubbles or blisters that appear under the finish months after the bait is finished. I know this is a recurring problem with resin baits as I have read much about it over the years. live in North Carolina about 70 miles form the coast and our summers can be quite hot and all baits I make stay in the garage. That may be part of the problem but not all baits have the problem.I have some that I intentionally left the clear tray in the sun on at least 12 different days fishing in the summer and had no problems. When a lure comes out of the mold it sits for at least a week, and recently I have been letting them have a turn in the dishwasher. I have not used mold release for years. I use Devcon 2 ton for a top coat after using air brush paints like wicked or createx and do heat set. One thing that I have learned is that I have less problems if the bait is given a base coat of D2N first then painted and then a D2N top coat. The issue here is that almost always with the first coat I get a fish eye or a spot where the epoxy pulled away from the resin surface. This can be fixed by applyiing a spot of devcon after the first coat has dryed, then smooth it out with the edge of a small piece of notebook paper. This adds time and more sanding is required to blend the repair for a smooth finish. I am thinking a good primer where the bait can be dipped might help with the first coat of devcon. One last thing, earlier this year I was dippin the baits in sanding sealer then applying the first coat of devcon and never had the fish eye problem but I suspect the sanding sealer may have been one of the culprits of the blisters that sometimes occur. Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top