Josh Buck

Awesome! There is a little learning curve but i enjoyed learning. Merry Christmas!

I have only built three rods, but I bought a turn-key rod kit from Mudhole that was on sale for $161.99. It came with all the parts for one rod and the FSB-2 kit. I am satisfied with what I purchased. If I were going to build professionally or do a lot of butt wraps, I might upgrade to a power wrapper on tracks.

I don't know if this will work on nickel, but it does work on steel and aluminum. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bV-PItEcLXY

Im sure it would be close, but with the one i made, after transparent paint, was brighter than glowing lure I had seen before. I was going to use it for trolling 25+ ft deep for walleye at night, but my dad and I still arent that great at it. Im not sure how long the glow powder stays illuminated. However, i thought if i could make one without batteries, i could troll the same area longer, without having to reset.

I think Livingston Lures makes one with the sound and illuminated eyes. The one I made was a one and done prototype, just to see if I could make it work. I would not have been able to change the batteries. I started to design a battery compartment, then realized that it may be possible to build one like the flashlights. I haven't really thought about it much in the past year or so, because I have almost given up deep trolling for walleye.

It would work like flashlights that you shake to charge them up.

I did once. I never tested action of the lure, just the light. I used 2 small button batteries to power one led. I had it rigged to only light up when it was in the water, but the batteries still died or a connection was broken a few days later. I would like to work on a Faraday effect lighted lure, I just haven't gotten around to that yet.

I just noticed that if the search brings zero results in hard baits, and you remove the + and search again, it doesn't search in hard baits again, it searches all content.

The search function in the upper left works for me, however I mainly just use a single keyword. The keyword has to be at least four characters, or it brings up zero hits. So when I searched for KBS I got zero hits, but I typed in diamond and there were pages of results. I usually prefer the upper left search because it is easier for me to direct the search from all content to specific content, usually only on the hardbait forum.

When adding prism paper to the inside of some lures to mimic a reef runner naked paint scheme, I used a product called 5 second fix. It's one of those as seen on tv products, but it worked really well, was clear, didn't leak, and super quick. After it was set with the blacklight, I just trimmed off the extra with a knife and sanded flush. I actually found it in a Family Dollar store for $10 and it later went on sale for half price.

Use the following info at your own risk. Since that is an AC motor you would need to purchase a new low current AC to AC transformer that goes from 120V to 24V. You can get them at https://www.mcmaster.com/#plug-in-power-supplies/=187575g or here https://www.mcmaster.com/#7708k21/=1875c71 Just remember it will still be alternating current coming out of the transformer so there is still a shock hazard. The rest is up to you, if you want to plug/unplug, use a switch, and so on. Be careful, and don't work on it hot, and wire it so that no one can come into contact with any live parts.

I was impatient with the crackle medium I bought. That's when I tried the glue. I spray my base color or color I want to shoe through the cracks, get the second color ready in the airbrush, brush on a liberal amount of glue, spray the color to be cracked quickly and a lot of it, then heat set with heat gun. I use the direction of the brush strokes to determine how it will crack (vertical strokes=mostly vertical cracks). I will guess for a completely random crack pattern that you should have enough glue on the lure that you can't see your brush strokes. As far as cleanup, I just throw the cheap brush away, and wipe up any spills.

I try to paint the lightest colors first, then follow with the darker colors. Other than that, I would mask off the area and lay a light coat of white so there is more contrast.

I don't know if you could determine the location based on that. The more I look into it, I think I was wrong in the picture I posted. I think that may just be showing a relatively hard bottom, that's what it would look like on regular sonar. If the info on Cabelas is correct and I did the math correctly, then when using the 455hz setting, the amount of bottom scanned is approximately equal to the depth, and the 800hz setting is approximately half the depth. So in 20ft of water the 455 hz is scanning roughly 20ft of bottom, so a stump would be within 10ft of either side of your boat. 800 hz would be about 10ft of bottom, 5ft either side of boat.

That is how I read mine, but I may be wrong. Sorry if I am starting to confuse you, I am starting to confuse myself haha. Also youtube has tons of videos on how to read down imaging and so on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iG8HkZIB2Eo This guy covers down imaging starting around 3 minutes in.