TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About rhallman

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

225 profile views
  1. rhallman

    2019-01-25 07.51.36.jpg

    Made from the head of a real gizzard shad a neighbor gave me plus all custom body work using Sculpey clay. Line thru design with internal foam harness. Handmade eyes from the picture of the real shad.
  2. rhallman

    2019-02-13 12.17.07.jpg

  3. rhallman

    Smooth-On Moldstar 30 issues?

    Update and hard lesson learned. You cannot clean a mold that's had plastisol poured in it and then pour a platinum silicone bait. One plastisol pour bait, then cleaned with soap and hot water, then multiple acetone cleanings. No help. It's either a plastisol mold or a silicone mold. Can't be both.
  4. rhallman

    Smooth-On Moldstar 30 issues?

    Just experienced the same thing. I was making a Mold Star 30 mold to pour both plastisol and platinum silicone swimbaits. Mold came out great (original made from resin). Poured a plastisol bait, then after using ample mold release made for platinum silicone, I poured Ecoflex silicone in the same mold. Big mistake. Only the inner cured. The outer touching the mold was a total mess. I am experimenting to make sure it is not the release, but I am certain it's due to the plastisol. Platinum silicone is extremely sensitive. Just did not know it was sensitive to plastisol. Tin based like Mold Max 30 is great. Not nearly as sensitive. Thanks for bringing this up.
  5. rhallman


    Thanks. Truth be known, it was made from a real shad replica. I can make hard swimbaits, but cannot get the realism like the real thing. It swims best in a soft plastic version.
  6. Gizzard shad three section hard swimbait. Original cast made from balsa, sculpey and plenty of patience. Molded with Smooth-On Mold Max 30. This is a resin lure made with Alumilite RC3. I have made multiple versions of this lure focusing on two types; First includes two hooks with and embedded Spro swivels instead screw eyes to reduce leverage during the fight. Second type is a line thru design with one or two hooks. Hooks are held in with screw eyes inserted into embedded rubber tubing that easily pops free during the hook set. All have replaceable super soft plastic tails that bring the bait to life, much better than silicon or rubber. I tried them all. I have settled on the line thru single front #2 Owner treble as the design of choice. Hookup ratio still high while avoiding the back hook from hooking into the fish's side or eyes. All painted with Wicked and finished with 3 coats of Etex.
  7. rhallman

    Photo Collage_20180218_212257878.jpg

    GIzzard shad. 5/0 Gamakatsu hook embedded in weighted foam harness for swimbait to sit upright at rest. Harness covered with bondcoat to prevent slippage. 10mm Living eyes. Wedge tail with excellent action at slow retrieve. Painted with Lureworks SB including holographic glitter. Made from real shad replica and Sculpey molded with Smooth On Mold Max 30.
  8. rhallman


    Gizzard shad soft swimbait with wedge tail.
  9. rhallman


    Line thru just like a soft swimbait. The line is tied to the screw eye on bottom that can pop out releasing the lure. I attached a pic of another swimbait on mine showing it popped out.
  10. rhallman


    Many thanks for all of the positive comments.
  11. rhallman


    Thanks a bunch. No foil was used. Just Wicked silver and aluminum, which suprisingly puts off a pretty good flash in the water.
  12. rhallman


    Line-thru design on front hook. Made from Alumilite RC3 resin. Dorsal and tail made with semi rigid resin to resist breakage. Etex finish to allow some flex.
  13. rhallman

    Hard bait paint blistering

    Thanks guys for the time and feedback. I did not used to clean with dawn. However, after a couple of separations, I figured it needed to be super clean. I have tried cleaning with acetone as well in the past. Lately I've been using Alumilite RC3 just because it's easy to get at Hobby Lobby and made a lure, that after about 5 days of casting, I noticed the blister in a spot. I have never only used one coat of Etex and I have never thought of putting the base coat in the mold. I might have to give these a shot. I need to try the lacquer primer as well. I never use mold release and do thoroughly rinse after washing. Just a pic of the latest creation. I'm sure this one will eventually blister as well if I don't lose it first. Thanks again.
  14. rhallman

    Hard bait paint blistering

    Need a little help. I have been making hard swimbaits for a couple of years and I have certainly gone through the school of hard knocks on trial and error like everyone else. The one area in which I still struggle is painting, specifically paint eventually separating from the lure body after usually extended use. I use Alumlite resin but have tried others as well. All the same. I airbrush mostly with Wicked and Wicked Detail but have tried Createx and Spike It paints. I have used base coats of spar, acrylic latex, topcoats from these airbrush companies and sometimes no true base coat. I finish my lures with Etex, usually 3 coats. Results always look impressive, but give it time and eventually I will see spots of separation between the body and the paint under the Etex. These are not lures exposed to excessive heat. I have seen that cause blistering firsthand. I thoughly was the lures with dawn before painting. Anyone have any tip? Much appreciated.