porkmeatballs
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Posts posted by porkmeatballs
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17 hours ago, mark poulson said:
Try hitting the bait with a hairdryer, once the wet look has gone away. I usually wait two hours after the final coat, and then hit it several times after that on the same day. Two days later it's ready to fish.
Yes I actually did use a hairdryer to help accelerate the outgassing process and then waited a few more weeks just to be safe. And just to clarify, this was for a master that I made a mold with, not a fishable bait.
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Update: I waited a few weeks for the Krylon to outgas and attempted another mold. It seems like it turned out pretty well! I guess I was a bit too hasty at first and should have let the Krylon fully cure first. Now I know haha
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3 hours ago, AZ Fisher said:
Dave, I have used the Rustoleum 2X matte clear for sealing at least ten baits that I molded and had no curing issues with the silicone.
I do about 3 light to med coats and it doesn't seem to fill in much detail. Again, I normally say stay away from Rustoleum products, but this one has worked for me. I let the matte clear dry and off gas a few days in the sun
I have been using Smooth-On 29NV and Sprayway #946 Silicone release agent. I've always waited only and hour or two past the cure time to unmold the master.
Hope you get'r figured out...
I believe the Smooth-On 29NV is a tin cure silicone, correct? I have also used tin cure silicone for a while and have had zero issues with this particular Krylon spray paint. I only began to run into problems when I switched to this new platinum cure silicone. I think that platinum cure is much more sensitive and can be inhibited by a wider range of substances/materials...
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I'm currently trying to wait for any other fumes to outgas from the master and will try placing a small amount of silicone on top to see if I still have problems. If that fails I will definitely try to clear coat it with something before trying again. Thanks for the input!
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Hello everyone! It's been a while since I posted on this site, but I recently ran into a problem when trying to mold a bait. I recently carved a new lure and then primed it using a gloss Krylon spray paint. It looked great and I had high hopes as I went to mold it using platinum cure silicone. I waited 12+ hours for the silicone to cure just to be safe, but when I opened the mold the entire surface of the master hadn't seemed to cure. The rest of the mold had cured perfectly, but the surface of the bait had a thick coat of uncured silicone on it. Any ideas on what caused this? One of my ideas is that the Krylon hadn't completely outgassed prior to me pouring the silicone, which then led to cure inhibition. The rest of the mold/surfaces cured perfectly, it was just the surface of the bait that had problems. If it is a problem with the Krylon spray paint, how long does it take to completely outgas? I have successfully used the same paint to cover previous baits, but I didn't mold them until quite a bit after they were coated. Any thoughts would be appreciated before I waste even more time and silicone
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21 hours ago, mark poulson said:
I use Rustoleum white paint/primer as well, two coats, twenty minutes apart, and cured overnight. I've never had it bubble. Maybe you still have some solvent from the primer trapped before you paint. I do hit it with my hair dryer as soon as it's lost its wet look, and then again just before I paint it with Createx, to be sure all the solvent is gone.
I do wait about a day or so before painting over the primer. I also don't actually get the "bubbles" until after I try scratching the clear coated baits. After scratching, the createx just seems to pull off. Perhaps I will have to try using the hairdryer to get rid of the solvents. I'm just bummed that I have to figure out how to scrape off these nice paint jobs and start all over again
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2 hours ago, JayBee said:
It's certainly possible that your issue is contamination from the oils on your skin. I wear gloves whenever handling any primed or painted lure thst isn't clear coated. Another possibility is that your primer and airbrush paint aren't compatible, you didn't mention what you are using, just throwing that out there.
Hmm that could be the reason. However, I haven't used gloves in the past and have never had issues like this before. I recently picked up some rustoleum paint/primer which I used for the first time on these particular baits. All the rest of the painting is done using createx paints.
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Yes I also use a hair dryer between layers of paint. I also allow the paint to dry for about a day in my garage where it is pretty dry. These lures are all resin, so there isn't the problem of moisture inside the baits. I was also thinking that the paint is having trouble binding to the paint primer. When I try scratching the lure with my fingernail, sometimes I can get what looks like a bubble under the paint. It kind of looks like the paint and clear formed a shell that has parted from the primer.
2 hours ago, mark poulson said:The only thing I've found that will make water-based paint peel is either trapped moisture that keeps it soft, and caused the clear coat to crack and allow water intrusion, or expansion of a wood lure in the sun, which also cracks the clear coat and allows water intrusion. I haven't had that problem with decoupage epoxy, like Etex, but I've had that problem with glue epoxy top coats, like D2T. I've not had that problem with spray on solvent top coats, but I do dry my paint with a hair dryer between each coat, and again just before I top coat.
I use Etex on wooden lures, and Rustoleum 2X Gloss Acrylic on plastic and PVC lures.
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Well it's been quite a while since I posted this thread! I actually pulled the trigger on some Spray Max 2k clear and used it on a small batch of lures. Unfortunately I ran into quite the problem.
The finish looked spectacular and was rock hard, but after a brief session in the water large sections of paint started to peel completely off a few of the baits. The paint primer that I used stayed on, but all the createx that I laid on top of it fell off with the clear coat. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
There are a few factors that I believe may have caused this issue:
1) I allowed the painted baits (not cleared yet) to air dry in the same proximity to where I pour soft plastic lures.
2) I clear coated the lures outside where the air was somewhat smoky
3) I wasn't wearing gloves during the painting process
Not sure if any of these factors would cause the clear to peel off, but any insight or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Yes yes, here's yet another clear coat thread! I came across the aerosol Spray Max 1k clear coat on Amazon and was wondering if any of you have had any experience with this product. I have heard lots of great things about the Spray Max 2k clear, but disliked the fact that the whole can must be used shortly after being activated. How's the durability and shine of the Spray Max 1k?
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Do you guys know if it's fine to use alumidust in the urethane to give it color?
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Hmmm I will be pouring fins, so these batches will most likely be pretty small... However, I do have syringes that are pretty accurate.
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Yeah, I guess I'll try mixing by volume. I think their website does say to mix by weight, but I really don't want to have to buy a scale unless it's necessary.
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Alright guys, I've got another question for you. I just got some Alumilite Flex 70 (urethane) to make fins for my resin swimbaits. Can I mix the two parts by volume, or do I have to do it all by weight? I've never used the stuff, so any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Haha maybe it's just me!
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Ah I see. Other glide baits have this problem as well, then? It just seems kind of annoying when the bait keeps going to the same side.
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Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but I have a different glide bait problem that I could use some help on... I made a jointed glide that's about 8 inches long and glides decently well, but when you give it a few twitches, sometimes it will favor gliding to a certain side. For example, sometimes it will glide left, left, right instead of alternating from side to side. I've been playing around with it, but can't figure out what's wrong. The only way that I can get it to alternate is to time my twitches perfectly. I can use any help that I can get!
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I've used KBS clear (the rattle can one) on some of my baits. If you give the bait three or four coats, it's decently strong. The hook points may or may not scratch your bait a bit, but the KBS doesn't react with soft plastics as far as I can tell...
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Quick question: Is Baitjunkys plastic compatible with other brands of softener? I have plenty of alumisol softener...
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14 hours ago, j.burch said:
Im using medium on mine cause I want them to last longer than 1 fish and done. But I only make the 4" swimbait.
I'm assuming that medium is still pretty soft then? I probably just need to try it out for myself...
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Oh wow! Just saw the price on the gallon of baitjunkys plastisol. Can't beat that price! What hardness do you think would be good for swimbaits? I looked through the search bar, and a lot of guys are saying that the medium is a pretty good choice for most baits. Would this include swimbaits with vortex-style and paddle tails? You guys are much more experienced than I am. Any suggestions?
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Have any of you guys ordered polysol from this site?
http://feqak.pcwpa.servertrust.com/Default.asp
I might get some for swimbaits. I was just wondering if i should get soft, medium, or hard...
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Bummer. Thanks for asking Krylon about that, Tuna.
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Anglinarcher, do you use the clear Krylon fusion for your topcoat? I'm just wondering about the clear spray not the paint
Krylon Spray Paint Reacting with Platinum Cure Silicone?
in Hard Baits
Posted
That would make sense, but I also don't want to muddle too much of the details on the master with epoxy... I have heard that some specific types of spray on clears get along nicely with platinum cure silicone, but I would have to do a bit more digging to figure out which ones.