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Chuck Young

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Everything posted by Chuck Young

  1. I use the wider 3/8 to 5/8" artist brushes found at wallyworld. But I modify them with a pair of scissors - so they remain as wide, but with fewer bristles. This gives them just the right flex for even coverage and reduces the amount of resin the absorb. Cleaning the brush is easy. Swirl brush in a little denatured alcohol in a mixing cup - paper towel brush. Pour DNA over brush. Wrap in paper towel. A microwave rotor motor works well for a lure turner.
  2. I agree that many items from the fabric store will work. Some of these materials look different when stretched out over a bait. As will the plastic mesh loofa material - which also comes in multiple sizes.
  3. Ditto with Mark on the E-Tex epoxy. It also is clearer than Devcon. The two part marine paints are self leveling - and will destroy any scale detail.
  4. I have been using my badger 150 bottom feed with a fine head and needle for a long time. It has produced some very fine work. Eventually I will upgrade to the Iwata HPC and run both - using the Iwata for finer details. Spraying water from the Badger shoud be a great way to clean the cup on the Iwata.
  5. IR paints look good over pearls, metalics, or foils. Spraying them through a scale mask at an angle varies the depth of IR paints and seems to enhance the effect. I like the color shifting paints as well. They work best when applied as the last color.
  6. Wallmart sells a few Folkart colors that work. Most of them have pigment sizes that are too large for an airbrush (in my opinion). But I have found that the color shifting Folkart colors (red, violet, and green) spray very well. I have to agree with the other posters. Ordering online opens up a world of options. Dick Blick, Jerry's Artorama, some airbrush suppliers - all are good options.
  7. I had concerns about the speed of the curing until I realized that you could let it level on the rotissere as long as needed before yu trned on the lights,
  8. The trick is to brush it on even. And I throw the paint on it right away. But you can try letting it dry before applying paint. Maybe it will work for you.
  9. Because lures come in so many sizes and patterns, it pays to have a variety on hand. Here is my approach to mesh. On the top of my spray booth I have several lengths of swim noodles cut in 1/2 and glued to the booth. Then 8" lengths of 3/8" dowels are inserted into the foam (not glued). Onto these, a variety of fabrics / materials are cut into long strips and wound. The lelftover material goes into a bag in my closet. These are organized into 4 categories: Bath sponge, Diamond, Hexagonal, and special. They are then organize on the dowels by group and size (X fine, fine, medium, and coarse). Sound expensive? It's not. I keep my eyes open for materials I can use. Most of them are free - like the little bags that garlic comes in. Material bought in fabric stores often cost $2 -$4 /yard. A yard will paint thousands of lures. I doubt that I have $20 invested in the whole setup.
  10. I like it! Now, how do I generate the need for 35 lures at a time?
  11. Some people swear by BIN as a primer. It is thick and will get rid of grain.
  12. First, welcome to the forum. In all humility, you will find the greatest minds in the lure making and painting community right here (present company excluded). Runny superglue penetrates the balsa and makes it hard. It will need time to cure. Use a respirator or great ventilation. You can actually see puffs of smoke rising from the balsa after applying superglue to the lure. The fumes from superglue will crystalize in your lungs. Thirty min epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol will also penetrate well. Curing time will be slightly longer than 30 min because of the addition of DNA. Apply, cure, sand, repeat. 2 coats should do it. You do not need to get it too smooth. A little tooth will help the paint to stick .After that, any water based, white acrylic will work as a primer. Devcon is a good topcoat for beginners. It is more forgiving than most epoxies. It is also available in small twin syringe packages or larger twin bottle( 8.5 oz total). So a major investment is not needed. In the home-made tool part of the forum, you will find how to make a lure turner. It really helps to get the topcoat to cure even .Otherwise, you will have to rotate it by hand. Have fun!
  13. I have since found that nail art film (sold in 120 m spools) is more flexible, and easier to apply. The same methods work however. And if you time the epoxy right, when it is nearly cured but still tacky, you can remove the backing and touch up some spots with left over film.
  14. I agree. That looks like a flow regulator. You will not get the results you want with that. Here is a link to a combo locking pressure regulator / moisture trap. I have one like this. When you lower the pressure, it shows the new pressure on the guage. It only allows that amount of pressure into your air brush. A flow regulator reduces the amount of air by effectively constricting the hose. While air is flowing, the pressure will be reduced. But when flow stops, the pressure will increase to full pressure. It is sort of like crimping a garden hose . While you are spraying water, flow is reduced. Stop spraying, and the hose swells to full pressure. https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-R-75-Regulator-Moisture-Trap/dp/B000BR2STI/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1544476266&sr=8-18&keywords=air+pressure+regulator
  15. I think the reason spreading it thin works is that it reduces the temp. The heat from curing epoxy dissipates more readily - slowing the curing process. It is the reverse of what honeybees do to survive the winter. They cluster in a sphere - reducing the surface area of the hive- to preserve body heat. Placing epoxy in a shallow tray in an ice bath would incorporate both suggestions. Doing this instead of using DNA has the advantage of not thinning it. Plus once the temp reaches normal, it would set more quickly.
  16. Chuck Young

    IMG_0901

    Good to see another NH guy on the forum. Nice job.
  17. Chuck Young

    line thru crank bait

    I saw the video before I saw the gallery pic. Great job on both! Line through is a solid concept. This gets the lure body away from teeth. Also the weight gets away from the mouth, so the lure is not thrown so easily.
  18. Beautiful paint. I have some of those blanks. Hate them. Hard to get good paint on them. Good job.
  19. I have used the Predator s-crank. It hunts with a fast retrieve. If you don't get the same results, try a lighter belly hook, lighter topcoat. The same weight, weight distribution, lip, and shape produce the same results. They have to, or every other Boeing 747 wouldn't be capable of flight . The question is which suppliers / manufacturers will pay attention to such details. The origional S-crank is also mass produced in China.
  20. The way these chain balls are constructed does not make for a strong lure. the balls are thin hollow metal beads. The connecting wire is mushroomed. If you want a swivel for a muskie lure, I would recommend using a pound test rated swivel. I know Barlows, netcraft and Lure Parts Online all sell them.
  21. Soft tempered may also be referred to as 304 type anealed. Stainless lock wire will do the job. These wires retain rust proof qualities, but will be more easily formed than 316 stainless .
  22. Heat setting does not work on all mediums .It works well on most (if not all) acrylic paints. It will not work on laquer or oils. Please specify what paint you are using.
  23. Every glow media that I have used is also fluorescent. Applying one color epoxy/ powder blend over a different fluorescent base gives a nice effect. I agree with the glo - nation reviews. Probably the best glow powders around .
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