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Chuck Young

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Posts posted by Chuck Young

  1. Microwave motors are great for this. They seem pretty durable as well. I have a turner design in the homebrew tools section. I have a section of pvc pipe going through a 3 ft section of swim noodle. Lure holders can be inserted into the foam. Mine regularly turns 8 to 10 1-1/2 oz lures at a time. 

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  2. As I was reading the earlier posts (before the last picture was posted) I was wondering if going to a single hinge point instead of a dual one would enhance the action. I have fished a ton of soft baits with boot tails. The tail doesn't just go side to side. It pitches up and down and rolls as well. I think the tail section should be shorter than the head section.

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  3. I want to apply GID powders with my airbrush. My plan is to mix them into Createx transparent base. 

    To date, I have been applying a thin epoxy layer and dusting the lure with powder. I want to get away from handling the powder. I have a fan spray booth and a theory that wet powder is less likely to fly than dry powder. 

    The Techno Glow white powder that I am considering is 35 microns and is supposed to glow for 10 hours when fully charged. The add says it can be sprayed through a tip .35 in or smaller. I suspect that is a typo on their part. That is what I gap my spark plugs to! Plus I beg to ask "how much smaller?" This is a completely useless piece of info. 

    So, my friends, I turn to you. What are your recommendations, experiences, and concerns.

  4. I use nail art foil and apply it under pressure with thin epoxy. This foil is available online in 120 meter lengths in a variety of colors. The plastic film is very thin. It conforms well to scale detail. The film backing is then removed, leaving a very thin reflective surface. I have a tutorial on this site. It is a good place to start. With nail art foil, you do not have to use the heat gun and vacuum as shown there. 

    As for painting, foil is a slick surface. I apply one or 2 coats of Createx Transparent base before I apply colors. The T base is creamy white, but heat sets perfectly clear. You have a hard time messing up your paint job this way. It can be done, but you really have to work at it to "chip off" any color.

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  5. Changing to a lighter or heavier wood won't do anything other than change the amount of lead you need to add. The overall weight of the lure will not change, since the problem is density. The only way to change the weight of the lure is to change the displacement of the lure by reducing thickness, height, or length.

    Another possibility is to add a chamber that can flood with water and drain before casting. The chamber should be in the rotational center of the lures action, since fluid acts as a dampener to action.

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  6. I cut mine in the square also. I made a small plywood miter box for this lip slots. But instead of the angles going at vertical angles, I do a horizontal cut. Just cut the slot(s) on a table saw. An alternative to the band saw is to glue some hacksaw blades together. It is just about right for 1/8' lexan.



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  7. I had a similar problem when I started painting. Clean blank, gloves, priming (either O white or clear base for ghost) very thin coats should solve the problem. Now I only spray with a fine head / needle assy often below 10 psi. These thin coats will preserve any surface details like scales and gills. It takes 3 seconds or less to cure a coat with a hair dryer set on high. 

    I never used Dick Lites, but found that a few lures had the MCU soak beneath the paint and wrinkle it. Now I use 2 coats of E-tex. 


  8. I have made a few of this type of lure. I can confirm all your observations about flat bottom, center of gravity - longitudinal, higher center of gravity, rate of sink. I will add that the shorter the height and flatter the sides, the faster it wobbles. Also rounding the sides slightly slows the wobble. 

    To help with the high COG, I run the wire for hangers along the top of the lure. I have a bass tree in my front yard, and find it perfect for this type of lure,

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  9. I use the wider 3/8 to 5/8" artist brushes found at wallyworld. But I modify them with a pair of scissors - so they remain as wide, but with fewer bristles. This gives them just the right flex for even coverage and reduces the amount of resin the absorb. Cleaning the brush is easy. Swirl brush in a little denatured alcohol in a mixing cup - paper towel brush. Pour DNA over brush. Wrap in paper towel.

    A microwave rotor motor works well for a lure turner. 

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  10. IR paints look good over pearls, metalics, or foils. Spraying them through a scale mask at an angle varies the depth of IR paints and seems to enhance the effect. 

    I like the color shifting paints as well. They work best when applied as the last color.

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  11. Wallmart sells a few Folkart colors that work. Most of them have pigment sizes that are too large for an airbrush (in my opinion). But I have found that the color shifting Folkart colors (red, violet, and green) spray very well. I have to agree with the other posters. Ordering online opens up a world of options. Dick Blick, Jerry's Artorama, some airbrush suppliers - all are good options. 

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  12. Because lures come in so many sizes and patterns, it pays to have a variety on hand. Here is my approach to mesh.

    On the top of my spray booth I have several lengths of swim noodles cut in 1/2 and glued to the booth. Then 8" lengths of 3/8" dowels are inserted into the foam (not glued). Onto these, a variety of fabrics / materials are cut into long strips and wound. The lelftover material goes into a bag in my closet.  These are organized into 4 categories: Bath sponge, Diamond, Hexagonal, and special. They are then organize on the dowels by group and size (X fine, fine, medium, and coarse). 

    Sound expensive? It's not. I keep my eyes open for materials I can use. Most of them are free - like the little bags that garlic comes in. Material bought in fabric stores often cost $2 -$4 /yard. A yard will paint thousands of lures. I doubt that I have $20 invested in the whole setup.

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