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Chuck Young

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Posts posted by Chuck Young

  1. I sent my Badger brush in for a PTFE needle seal.  They ask for $12 to cover shipping. They ended up totally rebuilding it. I got a new needle , bearing, head, nozzle, and trigger assy.  While I was at it I requested a few extra parts - extra cup, needle, and main head seals. With all the extra stuff they did, it only cost about $10 more. 

  2. Use a pressure regulator / separator (or filter) just after the compressor. Controlling pressure is vital. For some jobs I use 35 psi. For others I use well under 10 psi  (it may not even register on the gauge). 

    Out of the brushes you listed, I would go with the Iwata. I personally use a Badger 150 bottom feed (with optional compromise cup). I paid $90 for my brush, compressor and set of opaque paints. Got it from Craigslist. The little bottles are great for often used colors or for specially mixed colors. Just don't put too much in there at a time. Thinned paint will break down eventually. 

    As for factory support, no one stands behind their product like the folks at Badger.

  3. Is there any chance of getting the obvious search function fixed? We lecture people all the time to use the search feature before posting a question. Who is going to know to look under the activity tab? It is a little frustrating. It is also the sort of thing that my mind will not remember for long. 

  4. If you can't zoom in on the picture and see the features of the lure - look elsewhere. 

    Painting your own lures - and later developing your own designs -  is very rewarding. When you put that clear-coat on and watch the colors pop - nothing beats it. That is until you or your customer catches a lunker with it .

  5. We have several reputable suppliers who advertise and comment on this forum. Blanks are usually around $2 (sometimes a little more) for a top shelf blank. In my opinion, these perform as well or better than the origionals. These suppliers have done their homework. They have found the manufacturers who have good quality control. Then they dictate the design and quality of the molds and plastic used. They also supply a multitude of rattle options and holographic finishes.  

    Predator Bass Baits and Dinger Custom Baits have good quality stuff in shapes and actions that you should recognize. If you want some cheap stuff to practice on, just about anything will do. Lure Parts Online - the people who own this site - supply lure bodies - some by the origional manufacturers.  Chinese suppliers like W lure are cheap (sometimes less than $1 and provide free shipping, but it takes up to a month to get your stuff. Some of their blanks are really good. But you have to be really careful and test each one before you sell. 

    Most of the stuff you see on Amazon and E bay are "buyer beware". Some are seconds. Some are thirds. Some are worse. I bought some that only had 1/2 the required weight in them and seams that leak like a sieve. All they did was lie on their side on top of the water. 

    To me, now that I have developed some skills as a painter, I want to make sure that when I create something - it is going to fish with the same quality as the paint job. You have to decide. 

    Hope this helps.

    Chuck

     

  6. It doesn't show too much, but there is a thin line of chartreuse along the entire length of the bottom. And there is just a touch of Flo sunburst on the belly/throat. 

    I could certainly do one with a holo finish.  That would look AWESOME! Picture to come soon. Always up for a challenge. Could even do a ghost holo.

    • Like 1
  7. If you want to seal raw wood, have you tried runny superglue? Fumes are atrocious, so vent well.  But advantages are: 1) penetrates, seals, and strengthens wood (heck - it turns balsa into concrete). 2) breaks off joints in swim bait easily. 3) provides a great base for paint - not too slick, even when sanded. 4) cure time is not bad. 

    • Like 1
  8. There is a lack of saltwater blanks on the market. I am thinking of buying a mini lathe for turning some blanks. Tried the search feature, but info was 6 years old. What features are most important. Five speed, full variable speed? Any recommended brands or sales I should know about? Basic tools? Any video links I should watch.

  9. If you decide to go with polyurethane, do not use Helmsman. It starts yellow and turns yellower. Use a clear "moisture cure polyurethane". MCU is crystal clear and cures when exposed to air (oxygen). They use it to seal swimming pools. It has to be kept in an air tight container. Any air in the container has to be driven out with argon (Bloxygen). It is thin, so two coats will not give you the coating thickness as 1 coat of E- tex. Research it well before you use it.

  10. I am having a horrible time with the search function on this site. The first search always comes up 0. Then, after widening the search to include everything and every date, it comes up 0 again. Am I the only one having this problem? Or is the search function actually as useless as a bubblegum machine in a lock-jaw ward?

    • Like 1
  11. I just started using E-tex. It tends to draw away from sharp edges - I can deal with that by rounding them a little. It seems clearer than D2T.  Mixing extremely well makes a lot of sense. It is thin enough that bubbles work out well with a brush. And you don't want to have any doubts when it takes a full day to cure. 

  12. Cool color! Not too flashy - and that can be a good thing. For a layered paint scheme you might want to try P silver, then T olive (Createx colors - T canary yellow - 30, T deep blue - 1, T dark Brown - 3), The candy black ( T black - 3, T base - 3, reduce). Spray at low pressure, low volume. BTW that transparent olive color is very usefull.

  13. https://www.paintwithpearl.com/shop/chameleon-paint/blue-green-chameleon-paint-pearls-4759bg/

    I found this link to pearl powders that can be mixed in a clear coat or transparent base. Perhaps the green to blue color shifting one is wrong. They also have "ghost pearls" that have a holographic type of color shift. $25 woth of pigment does 1 qt of clear coat. Not sure about the sipping terms. But it might be worth a try. Keep me posted if you try it. Sounds like a cool effect. And if you do it right - it should stick better than the origional. 

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