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Posts posted by Chuck Young
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Try experimenting on some pieces of plastic pipe. To get those colors you will probably have to layer. . out my craw pattern called "grassy knoll in the gallery ( a recent post) . Try this is the recipe: Opaque white base, wicked gold. The rest are very thin layers - Transparent olive (30 drops T canary yellow - 1 dr T deep blue - 3dr T dk brown) , Next spatter with wicked detail moss, then add T leaf green, Deepen with candy black (1 drop T black, 2 dr T base (no pigment), reducer) on top. This gives you a grassy green with a lot of depth to it.
You may have to custom blend your own colors. When you do this keep track of the # of drops of each color added spray a spot on an address label, write the recipe on the label as well. this can then be stuck on a jar if you have some left over. I keep another copy as well in a notebook with all the pearls on one page, transparent on another. etc. Check out the cookbook thread for lure patterns and color recipes. I will post a few craw colors there.
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I second that emotion. Thanks for checking.
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I am in the process of making my first swimbait, a 4" crappie, out of birch. My process was to cut center line slots in the top and bottom, leaving about 7/16" in the center. Then i rough carved. Next I ran ss wire hinges through top and bottom and epoxied them in. At this point, the final carving and sanding were done. I sealed the bait with superglue. This left a slot in the whole length of the bottom of the bait a little less than 1/8" thick (Marathon saw blades are thin). I squashed some solder with a pair of vise grips and friction fit it into the slots. This allowed me to move the weights around, tweak the amount and water test for proper action, sink rate, and attitude. Finaly, they were glued in and the gap was filled with epoxy and micro-balloons. I don't know how others do it. But this seemed like a great way to tweak a bait. I am very happy with the results.
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These things look like a lot of fun. Makes me wish we had some muskies here in NH. We have a few pike - they might work on them. Have you considered using roller bearing swivels on the plopper?
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I bought a kit once to repair this kind of problem. The kit is called clean lens and costs $4.99. Inside the kit you will find special cleaning solution, cleaning cloths, and a clear viscous liquid with a brush applicator. If this sounds like the solution to your problem... think again. The finish dries very wavy and it does not get rid of all the scratches either. My polarized clip ons ended up worse than they started. My advice - buy a new pair of glasses. Unless they are your LUCKY glasses. In that case just look through the scratches.
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I just want to say thanks to all sponsors, creators, moderators, participants, etc on this site. Here you can find several answers to just about any question. Discussions are (usually) carried out in a fun and positive manner. Many of the questions often asked are already covered - so you don't even have to ask! All in all, this is one incredible resource.
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I had issues with ABS having Z - axis weakness but with PLA if I increase the temp it seems to bond the layers very well. Basically to the same strength as hollow spooks and other store topwaters. Got a new project printing this morning. I figure if this material proves to be too weak I can always break it down into pieces and make molds for resin parts, though so far the printed strength has been surprising.
Rats! A 3d printer --- Some people have all the cool toys..
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Thanks or as Jimmy would say: "ratatatatatat!"
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thank you mohawkman....dinger baits for the s crank
What model # does he sell it as? I must be thinking of a different bait.
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Do you mean the 1.2 or 1.5 megabass s crank? I checked Get Bit, Predator, lure color studios, M&R, Dakota lakes tackle, Bustin Bass. No joy. If you find them, let me know where. I would love to paint some of those.
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I had a "solo" cup holding some of my friend's homemade salsa melt when I left in my truck overnight.
That's some gooood salsa! Is that how they make it in the bay area?
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What! Never heard of this happening before. Sure resin heats up when it's mixed, they all do... but eating through a plastic cup? must have been a cheap cup! Sorry to hear that, nonetheless.
The red party cups are made of polystyrene (#6) plastic. The little mixing cups (like the ones on nyquil bottles) are made of polypropylene (#5 in the triangle). It makes a difference. Try switching to a different plastic container.
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I am looking for advise on Art Resin. It has some really nice features that seem ideal for lures. I have read many posts on this subject and visited the Art Resin site as well.
This is what I know ont the plus side: uv protection, ultra clear, really brings out the color, long work time.
This is what I know on the minus side: thin, needs 2 coats, needs lure turner, 3 day cure time.
What am I missing? Any useful hints to minimize the negatives? How much protection is needed from dust?
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There are some great video tutorials on you tube. Some of them are from members TU. I guess its ok to mention them by name. I am fairly new to this site myself. Check out videos by "Dakota lakes tackle" and"lure me in".
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I use mostly pearls, irridescent, and transparent colors from createx and their wicked line. wicked detail sepia is indispensable. Fluorescent sunburst and yellow are also good for base coats or the bottom of many baits.
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LooKS like wicked metallic gold by createx
Another possibility is createx pearl copper.
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Found this website that uses the CMYK format (Cyan,Magenta,Yellow and Black). Mixed up a rootbeer color using one of the goldenrod formulas then added a few drops of tangerine. Yeah, I know, wish there was just one rootbeer color we could mix instead of the many out there. http://www.color-chart.org/cmyk-color-chart.php
great post and comprehensive chart!
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Absolutely thru wire balsa lures. Balsa has no grip strength with small screws even if you superglue the hole. A simple hack saw blade glued to wood works for a jig. You need to add some weight to balsa anyway. Why not add some badly needed strength too.
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Try w lure model upl572. It sinks about 4 ft in three seconds. You can remove the belly hook and replace the tail hook with a #1 siwash. This blank is heavily built and swims level.
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Here is a $100 order that will cover a large range when mixed. Blick has all these.
Createx colors:
opaque white, black, yellow
Transparent: canary yellow, Dk forest green, dk brown, gray
Iridescent: yellow, green, red
Pearl: copper, blue, white, satin gold (Just a quick misting spray of this across a bait looks amazing once clear coated)
Fluorescent yellow
Wicked colors: Detail sepia, Pearl black, Fluorescent sunburst.
airbrush cleaner, restorer, w 500 nreducer
Rustoleum 2x coverage silver and gold. These can be decanted into an airbrush by spraying them into a 3/4 inch tube which drains into the cup.
laquer thinner.
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This is for anyone out there using superglue or cyanoacrylate glues. Be sure to use a booth or exhaust fan. This stuff heats up and fumes when used in any quantity at all. Maybe you have seen someone fume for fingerprints on TV. The fumes combine with organic fluids in the print and turn them into a hard crystal. Now imagine that process happening in your lungs. I dosed myself pretty good once. It is not pretty.
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This was just what I was looking for. Thank you so much for the reply. I copied it to word and saved a link to the forum as well.
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Remember to wave the gun to spread the heat around. If you heat things up too much the lure blank will warp.
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Great to get advice from the pros. I might consider using a different glue - perhaps one that is NOT solvent based. Priceless!
hard bait cookbook
in Hard Baits
Posted · Edited by Chuck Young
Craw colors blended from createx paints
T lite grey: t med grey (4), T black (7) , T base (6) reducer to taste
T tan: T white (4), T dk brown (1), T base (5), reduce
T t dark brown: T dk brown(1), T base (1), reduce
T olive: T canary yellow (30), T deep blue (1), T dk brown (3)
Green pumpkin: T dk brown (5), T leaf green (20), P(earl) lime green (2)
cream: O(paque) white (7), O yellow (1)
Cray oj: O yellow (10), T red (1)
rusty brown: T dk brown (8 ), T red (5), T white (1)
calico grey: O white (20), T deep blue (3), T gray: (5)
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