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Chuck Young

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Posts posted by Chuck Young


  1. I haven't used KBS. But with epoxy, you can sprinkle fine glitter on the first coat (using a salt  shaker type container) while it is still wet. Re-dipping will seal and smooth it. 

    Glitter alone is much cheaper than nail polish. Problems can occur when you use too many different mediums on a lure. 


  2. These look like saddle hackle feathers wrapped then tied back a little. Stay away from the webby feathers. They stick together because they are designed like zippers. When a bird preens its feathers, they are zipping them back together. . Look for a thin stem or they will be too bulky and fragile. Or you could buy some strung saddle hackle.  Some flat tying thread will make your head nicer. Acetate floss can be used to finish the head. Wrap it and apply a drop of acetone - it turns into solid plastic. 

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  3. The future and pledge and other floor care products are a hard acrylic. I am a former floor care professional. I owned my own floor care business. Think about the qualities you need in a floor care product. Here in New England we have harsh winters and a lot of salt / sand applied in parking lots. That is what floor finishes are designed to withstand. Imagine what it takes to remove that product from your airbrush. Not all acrylics are the same. I choose not to put that stuff into a close tolerance airbrush. 

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  4. I want to go on record that I have had major problems with the windex - future - water combinations. I mixed up some homemade reducer involving glycerin, distilled water, and amonia free windex. At the same time I bought some brand name reducer (createx). It worked so flawlessly that I never used the home-made concoction. I am still using my first 8 oz bottle of 4012. And I wouldn't dream of using the home-made mix. I estimate the cost per bait at less than 2 cents. 

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  5. Color shifting is a very attractive quality in a bait. I feel it touches more "trigger points". It occurs naturally in baitfish. The more 3-D the finish on your bait, the more effective the color shift will be. Certain foils can also be applied to accomplish a color shift. 

    I think I am with Hughsey on this one. If you want color shifting qualities - go all out. The per bait cost is a few cents .

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  6. I have used the same technique on balsa airplanes for anchoring the wing bolts.  . But I had to use a tap to cut the threads between each application of CA. With balsa, CA may penetrate better. But with harder woods, drilling the entire length of the screw eye and using epoxy (which probably fills gaps better than runny superglue) will keep you from splitting the wood. This is cat skinning territory - but it also varies from situation to situation. 

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  7. Personally, I would shy away from CA. Epoxies give you a longer working time. Imagine having the superglue set before the screw gets all the way in. That would not be good. Those look great by the way.

    With some woods, you have to worry about the screws splitting the wood. With epoxy, you can drill all the way. It will fill the gaps and soak into the wood. This technique also allows for the perfect alignment of screws .

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  8. I use a posterboard form (the one made of foam sandwiched in cardboard) 1/2 or slightly more the thickness of the lure. craft foam (kid's section of Michaels) can be added if the lure blank is too thick. Here is a link. I hope it helps.

    These don't lock up or damage your paint. Save both the form and the stencil as they can be used over and over. 

    http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31562-vacuform-machine-for-clam-shell-style-stencils/?tab=comments#comment-256756

     

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  9. On 7/9/2018 at 7:14 PM, Chuck Young said:

    I recently discovered that alligator clips can be a little less  tricky if you use some 1/8"(?) kid's craft foam (Michael's kid's section) inside the teeth. Just let the teeth of the clips bite through the foam then trim them with a razor knife. The foam keeps the lure from twisting in the hook hangers. 

     

     

    OK I had some major problems when I tried to clearcoat with this arrangement. It works great for paint, but the epoxy soaks into the foam and you have to cut it off your lures. 

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  10. Double "V" style joints have the advantage of being able to hang them by the head while coating. All excess is directed away from the joints.  Very little is applied inside the joint. If the wood is well sealed, you do not need much (or any) inside the joints, as there is no wear there.. Rubber bands help. 

    If it does get in there, let it fully cure. Cut off what you can with an exacto. Then work the joint, add a little lube, and keep working the joint. It is a pain, but it will come off eventually

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  11. Go with a reputable brand of airbrush acrylic. I also use Createx / Wicked colors. Look up videos on You tube and search the hard bait cookbook thread. There is more than one way to paint each pattern. Personally, I would shy away from those patterns using many opaque colors. Pick a dozen or so patterns that you like, and find a way to do them using a minimal investment in paint. Gradually build up your paint inventory to incorporate more patterns.  If you go to( activity/ search/ colors, recommended) you will find some suggestions on paint inventory. NEVER thin your paints in the original bottle. they will go bad.  I use opaque white and black. The rest of my colors are transparent, iridescent & pearl,  and fluorescent.  Wicked silver and gold are far superior to Createx - although made by the same company. Transparent base is cheap and very useful.  You will need the same brand reducer, ans air brush restorer for cleanup. 

    Many thin layers of different colors creates depth. For a clear coat over your finished paint job, I recommend Devcon 2 ton - 30 minute epoxy. It is available in small or large quantities, it is more forgiving than most epoxies. Rotate it while it cures or use a lure turner. 

    I fell in love with lure painting the first time I saw my paint job pop under a good coat of epoxy.  I hope you experience the same. 

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  12. Lightly sand. wipe with denatured alcohol. This gets rid of "amine blush. In addition, spray with a coat or two of createx transparent base. Paint can separate from a hard , slick surface during heat set or from abrasion.  The transparent base goes on milky white, but dries crystal clear. paint will not separate from it.  You can also use this product on a plastic blank instead of Opaque white if you want to spray a ghost pattern. 

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  13. I would recommend buying a thinner for a brand name airbrush acrylic. I use Createx 4012 reducer with folk art paint with good success. It is made for acrylic paint and has some flow enhancers in it.  But I agree that pigment size is a big issue. It will not perform like a paint made for an airbrush. Try to get the consistency of skim milk - more or less. 

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  14. On 7/23/2018 at 1:11 PM, blackjack said:

    I have been honing my crankbait skills in a deep ,dark, dank cave.

    At least my cave isn't dark. Love the foil application. I shy away from adhesive foil tape. I have had problems with layering different adhesives. I am having some success with HT foil and nail art films with thinned down epoxy. Nail art films are thinner and conform more closely to scale detail on ready made blanks. They also can be manipulated to create scale texture on a smooth lure.

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