Chuck Young
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Posts posted by Chuck Young
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I have used the Predator s-crank. It hunts with a fast retrieve. If you don't get the same results, try a lighter belly hook, lighter topcoat. The same weight, weight distribution, lip, and shape produce the same results. They have to, or every other Boeing 747 wouldn't be capable of flight . The question is which suppliers / manufacturers will pay attention to such details. The origional S-crank is also mass produced in China.
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The way these chain balls are constructed does not make for a strong lure. the balls are thin hollow metal beads. The connecting wire is mushroomed. If you want a swivel for a muskie lure, I would recommend using a pound test rated swivel. I know Barlows, netcraft and Lure Parts Online all sell them.
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Soft tempered may also be referred to as 304 type anealed. Stainless lock wire will do the job. These wires retain rust proof qualities, but will be more easily formed than 316 stainless .
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Heat setting does not work on all mediums .It works well on most (if not all) acrylic paints. It will not work on laquer or oils. Please specify what paint you are using.
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Every glow media that I have used is also fluorescent. Applying one color epoxy/ powder blend over a different fluorescent base gives a nice effect. I agree with the glo - nation reviews. Probably the best glow powders around .
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On 10/21/2018 at 7:00 PM, Hughesy said:
Thanks for sharing this cool technique!
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I bought some of the Folk Art stuff because it was cheap and available. I have used it on a few applications. Color shifting may be an exaggeration. But it does fade at certain angles. I found it useful as a highlight color on fish like smelt or American Shad. It worked at pressures below 20 PSI when reduced. But I will probably be buying a higher quality paint in the near future .
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You can also spray regular or silver eyes with wicked pearl black before installing them. A thin coat gives a lot of depth. This is great for crayfish eyes; They look like compound eyes.
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20 MPH!? Must be on waterskis.
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These things are all the rage. But I have never seen a school of minnows so densely packed - not even in a bait ball (Just saying). But if you want a challenge, there you have it.
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Where you put the weight on your lures makes a big difference. The higher in the lure the center of gravity is, the more unstable the lure will be and the more lively the action. The closer to the lip the weight is, the less the action will be hindered. For walk the dog type of baits, weight is placed more toward the rear. There is also the concern of how the lure sits when it is at rest. Do you want the nose down, nose up, or level? The type of wood you use and the purpose you have in mind will determine how much weight you need to add.
These are just some general principles which you can use to experiment with your lures.
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I would like to add that I am not a big fan of very thin paints - like Com Art. Some like the fact that you never have to thin it. But in my mind, if you cannot change the viscosity at all, you lose a lot of options. Sometimes I spray thicker paint a low pressure. Sometimes I do detail work that requires being close to the lure body, but I don't want the paint to spider (spread out like little teardrops). If your paint starts a little thicker than you need, then you can thin it to do whatever you want with it.
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Wicked differs slightly in its composition, so it cannot be mixed in liquid form with Createx. It bonds with Createx (and other acrylics) once heat set. Wicked is compatible with Createx transparent base and with the high end reducer. There is a big difference in pigment size. Wicked has a smaller size pigment ans is less viscous. For many applications, you do not need to reduce Wicked.
As for sealing wood, or layering different mediums (laquer, epoxy, moisture cure urethane, etc.), I have a theory that each of these substances expands and contracts at different conditions. So as much as possible, I use as few mediums as possible. I often use runny superglue to seal raw wood. It penetrates well, and has a lot of tooth for paint to bind to.
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You have some great advice here already. Whatever you use for paint, make sure it will stand up to UV. Createx is used to custom paint motorcycles and the like. The Createx high end reducer works on all acrylics that I have tried. I am a firm believer in using the name brand reducer. It cost pennies per application and performs flawlessly. NEVER pre mix an entire bottle of paint. I use bottom feed and have found that mixing small amounts in the feed bottle works best. If some paint starts to get clumpy, discard it immediately. If it merely thickens, you may be able to reduce it to the correct viscosity. As far as how much to thin it, thin it until it behaves properly. Sometimes you want it to spray a very thin coat from a distance, to deepen or blend a color. Sometimes you want a thin detail line or spot. Seldom do you want it to "spider", which happens if paint is too thin, a too much pressure, or sprayed too close.
I use few opaque paints. Learn to paint in thin layers. Fluorescent, iridescent, pearl, wicked detail, and transparent paints allow the underlying color to show through to one extent or another. Transparent base and/ or reducer can be added to a color to make it more transparent. To take full advantage of your airbrush, you will need to use an adjustable regulator. The pressures I use vary greatly. Base coats may go on at 30-35 psi. Details like spots, gills and fins use pressures in the low single digits.
If you blend your own colors, keep track of the number of drops of each color and write it on a chart (along with a sample), on adhesive labels (which can be put on your spray jars). Createx does not advise mixing Createx paints with their Wicked line.
A hair dryer is sufficient for heat setting between coats. You don't need a lot of heat. I usually use the high setting. Some have even used their airbrush to set the paint by just allowing air out of their brush - no paint. I don't have the patience for that.
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For fins you can cut your own stencils from a piece of flat clear plastic.This stencil will be good for all lures of the same length. I usually punch a hole where the eye is. This helps with aligning fins the same on each side.
For small lures, I have been cutting a full size front fin (pectoral) with a smaller rear fin. I custom blend a transparent orange and spray at an angle from the front, so it fades away in the back. For larger lures like yours, you can do the outline of the stencil, then use an edge to add lines to the body of the fin.
http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/18419-f14-trout-par-seriesjpg/?context=new
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The random stripes on the brookie were made using the stuff Mayberry mentoned. I double masked with the grain oriented horizontally and vertically. I got it recently at Hobby lobby (Metallic tuule - I think is what they call it). Mdot uses this a lot also. I thought it would look cool and suggest the random curved lines on the back of this species.
And Mark - I think it rates as at least 2/3 of a pun. PU
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An uncanny likeness?
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Just posted some new pics in gallery. Let me know what you think .
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Update: Two versions created. Version one is bulkier, heavier, with a more rounded profile. It wobbles about the same as the one on the Japanese website. Version 2 is thinner, flatter, and wobbles more quickly. The one Sticko created is thinnest and wobbles even faster.
Version 1 weighs in at 15 g. Version 2 weighs in at 14.4g. Both are equipped with Mustad 9175 single hooks and single split ring. Body length is 9 cm.
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Sounds like you do not want to buy in bulk. When I was learning I bought a lot of blanks from W lure. They stratify their discounts, and have sales every month. Shipping is free to US, but can take 3-4 weeks. I have found their quality pretty good. Weights are consistent. But I test each lure blank before I paint and ship. Some of their blanks are fantastic.
Start off with just a few. Try new ones that are on sale. Here are some that I like: M 219, M505, m589, m616, m647, m515, m549, c187, m591 (thru wired), L572 .
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Fly fishing! I love it!
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Thanks Woodie!
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I got similar results. Good job.
Extending pot life of slow cure epoxy?
in Hard Baits
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I think the reason spreading it thin works is that it reduces the temp. The heat from curing epoxy dissipates more readily - slowing the curing process. It is the reverse of what honeybees do to survive the winter. They cluster in a sphere - reducing the surface area of the hive- to preserve body heat.
Placing epoxy in a shallow tray in an ice bath would incorporate both suggestions. Doing this instead of using DNA has the advantage of not thinning it. Plus once the temp reaches normal, it would set more quickly.