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Chuck Young

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Posts posted by Chuck Young

  1. Marking the eye location and lat line (if there is one) can also be good markers. 

    Like Bob, I also have a large collection of stencils - both flat and formed. I keep them organized on in ziploc bags on alphabetized peghooks (Bass, Bluegill, crappie, craw, etc). Listed on each bag is the model of the blanks they fit. That way I know if I need to cut a new one. 

    I am not OCD. I just have a very bad memory due to physical and mental ailments.

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  2. Any place that sell RC model airplane kits. Hobby lobby, or anyplace like that. I use 2 coats on balsa with a sanding after each coat. It is smooth as glass, but tends to take paint better than epoxy - IMHO. Get the thin, like Mark said. Great Planes is a brand that comes to mind .

  3. If you do a lot of baits, you can buy larger quantity bottles from a hobby shop. They have some the size of Elmers school glue. 

    When using it, be sure to vent well. A respirator with an "organic vapor" cartridge provides additional protection.  It heats up and generate fumes - esp on balsa. You can actually see the occasional puff of smoke. These fumes react with fluids in your body and cause them to crystalize. You don't want that to happen in your lungs. 

    Used safely, they do an excellent job sealing and strengthening your lures. 

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  4. I tied a set of Adams for a business mentor of mine. I went from a size 8 down to a size 28. He was pretty impressed that I was able to put wings on the smallest ones. Not sure if I could do it now. 

  5. Another thing you may want to try is medium thickness binder covers. I use them for the vacuu-formed stencils. But the can be cut without the molding process. One flat stencil would do both sides. Just mark the outline of your lure with a permanent marker so both sides are exactly the same.

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  6. I keep my feathers on the wing. Much tying (such as wings) requires matching left and right wing feathers. 

    Love that Wally wing. Got to give that a try. With my luck, I won't get the feather to split. 

  7. I use the microwave motor also. I direct drive to a 1" pvc pipe. A section of swim noodle goes over the pipe. Flies and jigs can be inserted directly into the foam. The rate of rotation is perfect. The direction of rotation is random. Plenty of burned out microwaves around. 

  8. Do you know anyone with a white dog? I have a white Jack Russel Terrier. You should see how his hair lights up under UV. Others have commented on their dogs white fur having the same effect. You don't have to trim the hair. Just show up with a brush or flea comb. You will get plenty. I have stared a collection - just in case something happens to the little guy.

  9. Once you make a stencil, or a series of stencils, you can reuse them on the same blank indefinitely. The transparent stencils can be put over your partially painted lure. You can then mark it with a sharpie (ultra fine point). Mistakes can be erased with acetone or hair spray. Being able to see the current paint through the plastic gives you a clear advantage (pun intended). You can get it just right before cutting it with a Dremel, Exacto, or fine scissors. 

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  10. My guess would be that the 08 is the 8th model this person developed. The lure was created in 1973.  The 000 might be the paint pattern. You could try reaching the person at the address on the package. Also you might try an internet search on the company. This is a fickle business. people come and go. 

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  11. If the epoxy elements  are  different viscousities,  the circle thing won't  be exact. A less viscous (runnier) substance will have less volume in the same diameter because it will be flatter.  However with thicker epoxies, you cannot measure them with syringes. Guesstimating with the circle thing or with 2 lengths of  similar size beads will probably  be sufficient. I use the two 4.25 oz bottles of devcon 2 ton. I squeeze both beads out at the same time. I also am very careful to cut the new bottle nozzles evenly. 

    With E tex, it is thin enough to measure  with a syringe.  So that is what I do. 

    Eastman, use 30 min 2 ton. Mix it, gradually add either sawdust or micro-balloons until it is the consistency of putty.  Then cram it in there with a putty knife or something similar. Remember that the working time of epoxy can be reduced by as much as 1/2 when you add that much filler. The epoxy will still bond very well with the wood, but you can tool it. Plus it sands easily. 

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  12. Flex glue is rubber. Not sure it would take anything like paint or top coat. 

    Personally, I really like using epoxy with filler - either micro-balloons  or wood dust. To me it makes the lure stronger. And it sands well - if you use the right ratio.  Plus, you can make it as thick or thin as you need by changing the ratio of filler. 

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  13. The two part epoxy putty that some have mentioned comes in a small (4oz?) tube and is sold in auto parts stores and hardware stores. The product is in a roll shape with one element in the center (black) and one  element on the outside (grey). I use to sell te stuff. You cut off slices and then knead it until it is one color. It is fairly thick in consistency and sets up quickly. You would have to pack it into the slot, and weaker woods would not be able to handle the pressure. It does not sand as well as the wood. Bondo would be better, IMHO.

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