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Posts posted by Chuck Young
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The general opinion seems to be that the quicker the topcoat hardens, the less chance of interacting with the chrome. Still, results seem unsatisfactory. I will be ordering some heat transfer film.
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Speaking as a welding salesman, If you buy wire in a spool, ask the manufacturer or retailer "what is the layout measurement?" That is the diameter of the wires coil once it is unspooled. This can make a big difference when trying to staighten it. It also can reflect the memory and springiness of the wire .
You must mean .062 in wire. That is pretty hefty for a crank. But with a 6" plus lure, you are probably after big fish .
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My intention is to use them as a base for certain lures, also for G-finish lures
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They are around the great lakes, or wherever lake trout and salmon are caught.
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They are updating this stuff all the time. I have purchased some holographic silver nail art powder. It looks great on nails but you have to buff it and cannot coat it.
Heat transfer machines are available online for $150 or so. But I question the quality I have seen videos of people applying HT foils with an iron set on "cotton". If I could find the 1/2" rubberized HT pad, I would try attaching it to a hand iron. It might work.
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I am trying to find a true chrome finish. For lure painting, some kind of epoxy or other over coat absolutely has to be applied. I have researched Spazstix, but apparently it turns dull under epoxy or any other clear coat. Does anyone have a solution for this? I am looking for a true chrome finish I can use as a base, to which water based paints and epoxy clearcoats can be applied. I am counting on you guys to come up with some real solutions. Please rate the shine on a 1 - 10 scale with both a topcoat and without.
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Well, there you have it! My guess was entirely wrong. Once again we learn from a mistake. That's life.
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My guess would be that the longer it sticks, the tackier it is. Using this reasoning, you have the low tack.
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Post some pics to the gallery. You will get some helpful advice. Be patient. It takes time. All of us are still learning.
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Marking the eye location and lat line (if there is one) can also be good markers.
Like Bob, I also have a large collection of stencils - both flat and formed. I keep them organized on in ziploc bags on alphabetized peghooks (Bass, Bluegill, crappie, craw, etc). Listed on each bag is the model of the blanks they fit. That way I know if I need to cut a new one.
I am not OCD. I just have a very bad memory due to physical and mental ailments.
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Any place that sell RC model airplane kits. Hobby lobby, or anyplace like that. I use 2 coats on balsa with a sanding after each coat. It is smooth as glass, but tends to take paint better than epoxy - IMHO. Get the thin, like Mark said. Great Planes is a brand that comes to mind .
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If you do a lot of baits, you can buy larger quantity bottles from a hobby shop. They have some the size of Elmers school glue.
When using it, be sure to vent well. A respirator with an "organic vapor" cartridge provides additional protection. It heats up and generate fumes - esp on balsa. You can actually see the occasional puff of smoke. These fumes react with fluids in your body and cause them to crystalize. You don't want that to happen in your lungs.
Used safely, they do an excellent job sealing and strengthening your lures.
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Ditto on Lisa and Ed's eyes.
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I tied a set of Adams for a business mentor of mine. I went from a size 8 down to a size 28. He was pretty impressed that I was able to put wings on the smallest ones. Not sure if I could do it now.
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Another thing you may want to try is medium thickness binder covers. I use them for the vacuu-formed stencils. But the can be cut without the molding process. One flat stencil would do both sides. Just mark the outline of your lure with a permanent marker so both sides are exactly the same.
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Monty, that is the exact one I got.
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I keep my feathers on the wing. Much tying (such as wings) requires matching left and right wing feathers.
Love that Wally wing. Got to give that a try. With my luck, I won't get the feather to split.
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I use the microwave motor also. I direct drive to a 1" pvc pipe. A section of swim noodle goes over the pipe. Flies and jigs can be inserted directly into the foam. The rate of rotation is perfect. The direction of rotation is random. Plenty of burned out microwaves around.
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Do you know anyone with a white dog? I have a white Jack Russel Terrier. You should see how his hair lights up under UV. Others have commented on their dogs white fur having the same effect. You don't have to trim the hair. Just show up with a brush or flea comb. You will get plenty. I have stared a collection - just in case something happens to the little guy.
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It is probably way overdue, but i just bought a $10 scale on E-Bay.
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Using epoxy in the bath is a great way to stick to a regimen of hygiene.
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Once you make a stencil, or a series of stencils, you can reuse them on the same blank indefinitely. The transparent stencils can be put over your partially painted lure. You can then mark it with a sharpie (ultra fine point). Mistakes can be erased with acetone or hair spray. Being able to see the current paint through the plastic gives you a clear advantage (pun intended). You can get it just right before cutting it with a Dremel, Exacto, or fine scissors.
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I would worry about using tape to mask an already painted area. That paint is easy to pull off. If possible, use a stencil instead.
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It also becomes less dense, but still more dense than water.
How to remove cracked bills From wood baits?
in Hard Baits
Posted
I wonder if repairing the lip could be repaired with superglue, then an epoxy topcoat more easily.