Chuck Young
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Posts posted by Chuck Young
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My guess would be that the 08 is the 8th model this person developed. The lure was created in 1973. The 000 might be the paint pattern. You could try reaching the person at the address on the package. Also you might try an internet search on the company. This is a fickle business. people come and go.
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It has probably been mentioned, but you need a filter / separator with an oil compressor. Most of us probably use one anyway.
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If the epoxy elements are different viscousities, the circle thing won't be exact. A less viscous (runnier) substance will have less volume in the same diameter because it will be flatter. However with thicker epoxies, you cannot measure them with syringes. Guesstimating with the circle thing or with 2 lengths of similar size beads will probably be sufficient. I use the two 4.25 oz bottles of devcon 2 ton. I squeeze both beads out at the same time. I also am very careful to cut the new bottle nozzles evenly.
With E tex, it is thin enough to measure with a syringe. So that is what I do.
Eastman, use 30 min 2 ton. Mix it, gradually add either sawdust or micro-balloons until it is the consistency of putty. Then cram it in there with a putty knife or something similar. Remember that the working time of epoxy can be reduced by as much as 1/2 when you add that much filler. The epoxy will still bond very well with the wood, but you can tool it. Plus it sands easily.
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The bamboo laminates I have seen (flooring) are not solid bamboo. There are many gaps deep on the inside. It is like small sections of a bamboo cane loosely glued together inside and only solid on the top 1/8" or so
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Flex glue is rubber. Not sure it would take anything like paint or top coat.
Personally, I really like using epoxy with filler - either micro-balloons or wood dust. To me it makes the lure stronger. And it sands well - if you use the right ratio. Plus, you can make it as thick or thin as you need by changing the ratio of filler.
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The two part epoxy putty that some have mentioned comes in a small (4oz?) tube and is sold in auto parts stores and hardware stores. The product is in a roll shape with one element in the center (black) and one element on the outside (grey). I use to sell te stuff. You cut off slices and then knead it until it is one color. It is fairly thick in consistency and sets up quickly. You would have to pack it into the slot, and weaker woods would not be able to handle the pressure. It does not sand as well as the wood. Bondo would be better, IMHO.
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You can do so much more with a bigger compressor! Someday I will rig one like you did, Wayne.
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I just posted some new pics in the gallery. I welcome comments and criticism.
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I saw a you tube video on mixing epoxy with pearl powder. They say to mix the powder vigorously into just a small portion of epoxy first. That gets rid of any clumps. Then add the rest of the epoxy and mix.
You probably already knew that. But I am sure someone out there does not.
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An air tank is a great idea. It should provide a nice steady flow of air. It will keep the noise at bay.
I work out of a small office in my home. No space for a tank, or for a small compressor. The hose can be rolled up in a loop and tucked up next to my miniature compressor. Not everyone has a lot of room .
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You know those cups that come on the top of liquid cold medicine? They are great for mixing epoxy. The #5 plastic that they are made of is epoxy-phobic. Epoxy does not stick to it. Once the left over epoxy hardens, you can pop it right out.
My wife has a $200 dollar a week Nyquil habit - so I have plenty. JK
My old disposable paint brushes get the hairy end chopped off and become stirrers. I like mixing with a round stirrer. Sharp edges cause bubbles. I can spin the round thing against the side of the cup to make sure that all the epoxy gets mixed.
Sorry Glenn, but I would never mix with the brush I am going to use for coating. There is a lot of dead space in between those bristles. The only way to thoroughly mix with one is to press hard on the bristles so hard that you are then abusing your brush. Even then it is iffy.
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I have also noticed that some topcoats can occasionally interact with the adhesive used to attach the foil. I have used E6000 t attach foil in the past. This is a fantastic adhesive. But I found it useless for attaching foil. Once epoxy was applied over it, it seemed to soften and cause wrinkles or worse.
My solution to this problem was to use the same epoxy to apply the foil.
What you have going on seems to be more of a moisture problem, as others have commented. But I hope this info also helps .
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I love Createx products. That being said, I do not believe the Createx topcoats will provide enough protection for lures .
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I don't think you can get bamboo in the thickness you need without it being processed in some way. Unless you plan on laminating it. I really am not an expert on bamboo. I have nothing more to offer on the subject, and will bow out of any further discussion.
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I couldn't agree more with Anglin archer. Cheap but don't work every time is expensive.
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What do you mean by intercoat?
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Bob, I probably use the same badger compressor. I got rid of the pulsing by adding a 25ft length of polyurethane hose( usually blue). They are very stretchy - so they absorb the pulsing. Even at pressures below 5psi, there is no pulsing. This gets rid of the need for a tank - which can be a a problem with limited space.
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I picked up two promising products from nail art supply people. One is chrome holographic nail powder. The other is just holographic. Both are .004 in. Both seem promising. I will update with pictures in the gallery soon.
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From my experience with bamboo (not lure experience - but wood working experience) I have noticed the following: Bamboo splits easily. When in contact with water, it turns slimy. Cooking utensils made of bamboo tend to repel everything put at them. It is a strange medium. Expect strange results when using bamboo.
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Usually when I crush beetle wings, the rest of the bug comes along with it. Nothing in that green goo resembles any kind of clear coat. Personally I prefer a quagmire to Beetleguese.
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That thin masking tape is also available in auto parts stores. They use it for custom painting - flames, pinstripes, and the like. That is a great tip. I never thought of that.
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I am not easily offended by remarks voicing a different perspective than mine. Nor am I offended by people correcting my mistakes, as you rightly did. Thanks for your sensitivity, though. Nobody can know everything. And this is a learning forum for all involved.
I comment a lot on this sight. That doesn't make me smarter. I can only comment on what I already know (or more often than not, think). Listening to views different than mine, and adjusting mine accordingly, is what will eventually make me smarter.
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I also think it matters whether your lure is designed to wobble side to side or to roll. I think that I have always seen rolling lures (Skinny minnows, like Rapalas) with round bills.
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On the difference on weights of the 2 components - If Tuna has the correct weights (and I have no reason to believe that he does not), then the difference between the two is about 6/100ths. I don't think that I can measure that accurately with a syringe, esp since I only do about 1 to 2 cc at a time. One drop of either factor probably exceeds that amount.
If you do larger batches of epoxy, it may be more of a factor. A scale then makes a lot of sense.
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Has anyone tried making bamboo baits?
in Hard Baits
Posted · Edited by Chuck Young
more info
That looks a whole lot better than what I got at Home Cheapo.