Chuck Young
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Posts posted by Chuck Young
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You are right. We use the term shellac here also, and that is what bin is. I suffer from a disease that affects my brain, so I get terms confused sometimes . I have used Bin in house painting. But it is only suitable on the interior as far as I know. Drying time is not consistent, depending on temp, thickness, circulation, and humidity. Put a coat over the top of it before it cures completely, and you end up with a cracked finish.
I often apply a scale texture to my wood lures. Bin would obscure that, since it goes on pretty thick.
Using a water based acrylic (Createx is what I use) takes about 10 seconds per coat, including drying time (with hair dryer). Yet it goes on so thinly that the scale detail remains so that future coats can utilize the detail to provide contrast. As far as durability goes, Acrylics have been used in exterior paints for at least 50 years. I am not sure about shellac. That being said, I would never fish a bait painted with acrylics without a topcoat. So maybe the point is moot. If the topcoat remains intact, so will the primer and paint. Unfortunately, that is not always the case.
If something is working for you on a consistent basis, by all means keep doing it. I am just throwing my two cents out there so that others can consider the pros and cons. Maybe they are painting plastic or wood baits with fine scale detail. Bin may not be the thing they should use. However if you are painting a wood bait with a smooth finish, perhaps with some wood grain still showing, Bin might be just the thing.
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Clearly, I am not a big fan of laquers as sealants on lures. Priming is a different animal - to provide a consistent color base. Your basic opaque white water-bourne paint does that for you. But sealing off stains / contaminants is a part of that. Bin does that, but laquers are very inconsistent in their cure time. There are better options for sealing the wood itself, so water will not penetrate it.
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On 5/1/2018 at 9:46 AM, BobP said:
Weighing can be OK if you differ the weights measured so you end up with the same volume of each part, as Tuna does.
How much of a difference in weight can there be? When you receive the product, both containers are labeled 4.25 oz and appear to be identical in volume.
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On 5/1/2018 at 9:46 AM, BobP said:
I use MCU on plastic baits for a more "factory look".
By factory coat, I assume you mean a thin coat that you can feel the scale texture through.
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I just received my order from Get Bit. The whopper ploppers are exceptional quality. Plastic is high grade. Tolerances are tight. Seams are beautiful. Speed of delivery was great as well. Thanks Cougar.
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I don't care if the paint is non toxic. I don't want it in my lungs. I use a paint booth all the time. If I can smell the paint, I up the fan or change my angle of attack. Respirators may be overkill, but I would not dissuade anyone from using them .
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There are so many better options than BIN to seal a lure. Bin is a laquer - takes a long time to fully cure. As far as laquers go, it is not the most waterproof. I recommend sealing raw wood with: 1) runny super glue, 2) 30 minute epoxy, 3) moisture cure urethane 4)concrete sealer.
Of these options, the epoxy will cure in 30 minutes guaranteed. All the other options - including superglue - may take much longer to cure.
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As far as cleanup of those pretty syringes - denatured alcohol can be used to clean those also. Although, for a pretty long period of time, you can use two separate syringes ( one for epoxy and one for resin) and just cap them with something so they don't dry up. As long as you keep the two separate and air tight, you should be fine.
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Those glass syringes look great. But you should be able to get Devcon 30 minute epoxy in the dual syringe, small quantity package. It will work great for you. If it is too thick for your taste, dilute it with a drop or two of denatured alcohol.
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NM heavy - I am sure you will be happy with knock offs from reputable suppliers. Predator bass baits, Dinger custom, and Get Bit all use reputable manufacturers. These suppliers search out the manufacturers who have the best quality control. They also demand superior plastic. In some cases, they outperform the origionals.
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Yeah bud, I ordered a few also.
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I don't think there is any way to make a wax lure hold up. But I may want to try it if I am in a survival situation and have a candle.
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Remind me to not visit Wisconsin.
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It should spray real nice mixed with a transparent base. I noticed scales mainly have that holo effect on the very edges. So maybe a forward angle through a scale mesh would imitate that. As for the other pointers, they are much appreciated.
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When i do the sprinkling thing, the epoxy is wet, just applied.
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I use the 12 variety pack of glitter at Walmart in the 1-1/4" (guessimate) tall salt shaker dispensers. I have no idea what size it is. But you likely have one near you and that will give you a reference. I would not go any bigger than that.
I also ordered some holographic and holographic chrome nail powder in .004". It has not come yet. You can apply that to tacky epoxy with a makeup brush. Or you can mix it in with the epoxy.
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I agree with the size of the glitter as well. Sometimes I apply a thin coat of epoxy and sprinkle different colors in different areas. You can then get it to lay down with a disposable brush by poking it down. Hand sanding that coat after full curing removes bumps or protruding glitter. It will get scratched up, but the second coat of epoxy will clear it right up. Hope you can use some part of this.
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It takes patience and a gentle touch. If you try to "get the lead out" while using any type of pencil sharpener, you probably will succeed.
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Here is a link to a wood density chart I compiled earlier.
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Actually I reversed that. It is weight divided by the volume. So if a small piece of lead has the same weight as a large piece of balsa, the lead is higher in density.
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I am thinking of the kind that has the crank and the rotating wheel inside with many blades carved out of the rotating drum. They use to put two drums on the crank. Now they only use one.
I was thinking you could motorize (not too fast) just the drum and use a slot feed for strips of material. I have never tried it. But I think the size of the shavings would be a good size for melting.
It is at the most the start of an idea. But sharpeners are a pretty cheap starting place.
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Or if you buy balsa in blocks you can simply measure the volume of the block and divide it by the weight of the block. Balsa is usually sold in full dimension blocks. Most hardware stores have a scale or you can bring a postal scale.
You can also order it in certain densities.
If you use a thru wire, set in a slot in the bottom of the lure, you can slide the lead around in the slot. Once you epoxy it in and backfill with epoxy - saw dust (or micro-balloons) - you strengthen the core as well as the skin of the balsa. It will never snap in half. But that may just be me. I'm so tight I have to lubricate to pass gas.
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Hughsey brings out a great point. Balsa varies greatly in density. Other light woods (hence highly reactive as Anglin mentioned) are Pawlonia wood, and Bass wood. They are slightly more dense, but you will still have to add weight. They also are more consistent in density and grain than balsa. I have a basswood tree in my front yard. A little judicious pruning gives me a lot of lure material.
Another way of thru wiring a wood bait is to cut a slot lengthwise through the bottom center of your block while it is still in the square. You can do that on a table saw using a ripping fence. Get it close to the center of the blank. If it comes out a little off center, turn the blank around and do another pass.
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Something with a pencil sharpener blade?
syringe 2 parts epoxy( more than 5 min)
in Hard Baits
Posted
Measure it with a micrometer. Mark it with a sharpie. Cut it with an axe. Nail it with a sledgehammer.
Every stage matters .