Will Wetline

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About Will Wetline

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    Western Mass

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  1. Furry Footballs

  2. Furry Footballs

    I can't get polar bear as you know, and I'm not real keen on the synthetic faux fur. I do plan a white Poison tail head dressed with bucktail and rabbit and some flash. Maybe some yellow chartreuse for a topping (Think Lefty's Deceiver) and, then again, an overwing of grizzly hackle would look pretty spiffy, I think . . . Thanks for the comment, HV.
  3. Furry Footballs

    Pewter heads were ladle cast in Do-it's light wire football mold. Owner 5313 hooks used. Bear and bunny fur.
  4. Split rings on jigging spoons

    These are what you want for larger, heavier split rings: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Texas_Tackle_Split_Ring_Pliers/descpage-TTSRP.html
  5. The Ned Rig

    Yup. 2017 was my first season throwing this rig, having bought the Do-it mold to make the head the previous winter. It was no surprise that, working it on a 6 1/2' or 7' ML rod and 6 lb. fluoro, it was a smallmouth slayer.
  6. Flies For Steelhead

    I have not used traditional west coast patterns. I think a majority of steelheaders that fish this river that drains into Lake Ontario fish egg pattern flies and nymphs. I have had success with the size 6 white bugger shown in the photo above. Here's one steelhead that liked it:
  7. Wacky Worm Weight

    I like your idea and your wit, Tuna!
  8. Keeping eyelets clear while curing

    I just painted a batch of Midwest Finesse jigs and tried the above method of clearing the eye. I let the jigs cool first so the paint pushed through wouldn't be sticky and stringy. This worked great. Thanks, cadman!
  9. Benchwork, December, 2017

    Sunday morning chores are done and there's time to tie a few before the football game.
  10. Fluid Bed??

    If you decide to buy, know that https://www.tjstackle.com/ makes and markets one that works just fine for less than half the price of others on the market.
  11. bucktail Profile.JPG

    Head from Do-it's Poison Tail mold Powder painted bucktail and Grizzly Accent flash
  12. Top View.JPG

    Head from Do-it's Poison Tail Mold Powder painted bucktail and Grizzly Accent flash
  13. Securing eyes on jigs

    I've been using the 3-D eyes from Barlow's and LPO for several seasons and have simply pressed them on firmly and went fishing. I've had only two come off. Reading through this thread, I like the idea of topcoating with Hard As Nails. Doesn't take too much time, glosses over my fingerprint and should add additional security. A magnetic tool strip came in handy as you'll see in the photos below:
  14. Pouring tin

    Welcome to TU, SMBLifter! I lift a few smallies myself, and quite a few good ones this season with the Midwest Finesse ("Ned") jig head attached to them. Since 2012 when Massachusetts prohibited the use of lead jigs and weights weighing less than an ounce, I have been experimenting with bismuth/tin alloys. I've settled on 88% bismuth/12% tin for some molds; ball jigs are fine with this as is Do-it's Herring Head and, yes, the Midwest Finesse ("Ned") jig head. Since you're just getting started, let's look at your first concern: Be safe! Wear goggles and gloves. Work in a quiet environment and only when you're clear-headed, not after beers with the boys or with playful children, pets, or agitated adults around. And do not rush the process of casting molten metal. Please forgive the lecture; although casting, once you've got the hang of it, is fun and satisfying, it's got to be serious business to avoid painful injury. Also in this photo is Drop Out release spray which is helpful with everything and a necessity if you want to get a bismuth/tin casting out of the mold! It's available from barlowstackle.com. Now let's look at the devilishly-difficult-to-handle wire forms (bait keepers) for the Midwest Finesse mold: After fumbling and cursing trying to settle these little parts into the mold for the first couple dozen pours, I experienced an aha! moment: find a small magnet. Simply orient the wire form on it properly and, using your thumb, push it off into the mold. Place the hook next to it and then nudge both together so all is properly seated. Yes, this does take time and patience. I'm sure that cadman, whom I greatly respect for his expertise and generosity in sharing his knowledge will back me when I say be patient with your work and practice. Then practice some more. Onward to tools: L -R: tool handle with magnet on end, lineman's pliers and slip joint pliers. I use the linemans to grip the head (not the sprue) of the casting and pull it up and out. Use both to remove the sprue. The alloy, https://www.rotometals.com/lead-free-bullet-casting-alloy-88-bismuth-12-tin/ is hard enough so you wont mar the jig head. If you're wondering what's with the big screwdriver, that tells me you haven't read the instructions that came with Lee's Production Pot IV. (Presumptuous of me to assume that's what you've got for a melter, huh?) It really helps to stick it in the slot at the end of the plunger and turn it to stop or at least minimize dripping. A batch of Midwest Finesse jig heads in various stages of production: There are 1/16 oz, 3/32 oz. and 1/8 oz. jigs pictured. I've read that the above linked alloy is about 85% the weight of lead. I've used the 3/32 oz. probably 95% of the time to get to my smallies at depths of 10' - 20'. What else? I've had no problem with the hook keeper loosening in this alloy, even in the 1/16 oz. head. Give the mold another coat of Drop Out after 3 - 4 dozen pours. From Wikipedia: "Bismuth expands 3.32% on solidification." Even though the Owner 5313, size 1/0 hook is far more expensive than the Eagle Claw "Lil Nasty," I prefer it because the points don't turn nearly as easily when retrieved through rocky habitat. That all may be more than enough for now so I'll close by once again welcoming you to Tackle Underground.
  15. Naked Bait Skirt Co skirt expander??

    I've been using one for several years now and like it better than the other skirt making tools in its price range.