Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Lurenerd

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    N.E. Texas

Recent Profile Visitors

428 profile views
  1. BobP is right, a little goes a long way. I use plastic cups with measurements on them for the epoxy mix and an eyedropper for a few adding a few drops of denatured alcohol into the mix. Stir thoroughly. Also, I found that putting a larger plastic cup upside down over the epoxy filled measuring cup and exhaling into the larger cup then letting the mix sit covered for a short time quickly gets rid of any bubbles from the stirring. Works great and adds a little extra working time before the mix begins to harden.
  2. When I'm using a new handmade lure and trying to figure out if it fishes like I want it too I use lighter split rings and braided line. The split rings I mention are rated to 12 lbs. (if I remember correctly) so 20 lb. braid is more than strong enough to pull the split ring apart if I get hung up so badly that a lure retriever won't get it loose. I'd rather lose a hook than my prototype lure. Guess this idea could also apply to any handmade lure you really don't want to lose. I'm casting for largemouth, not the big toothy critters some of my friends up north fish for so I'm not nearly as l
  3. I experimented around with kill (eye) dots on shad pattern rattle baits a lot last summer when the largemouth were feeding heavily on shad. Casting the same size, style, weight and pattern on identical rod/reel setups I found that the dot did make a difference. With a dot I got more hits than without. I tried stripes and other detail the same way and found that a simple black dot about the size of the eye and at about eye level was the most important (productive) detail I could add, or not add. It didn't seem to matter if the dot was just behind the gill or centered or at the tail just as
  4. Excluding ranch dressing as a possible topcoat..... it sounds like D2T would be a good option. I'm assuming that the decal gets applied to the blank then painted to cover seams and enhance the pattern, then a clear coat followed by a D2T topcoat.
  5. Appreciate the response All Eyes. The line tie in the photo looks great.
  6. Not trying to cast any dispersions here...but does a decal come apart when hook rash gets into the decal? I've heard "this and that, one thing then another", on the subject so I'm curious. The things look pretty awesome and I'd like to learn the process of using decals and airbrushing them and sealing the decal so as to avoid problems later.
  7. Wash with Dawn dishwashing soap and a clean wash cloth. Use warm water, wipe them, then rinse them. If any of them have rust in them you probably should set them aside as "test rats". After that its probably a good idea to seal them with a clear sealer before painting. There are a bunch of good sealers available, AC1315 does a good job of sealing and clearing plastic lure blanks. Hope this helps answer your question. Which airbrush are you getting? Just curious.
  8. When making deep diving balsa lures for largemouth bass fishing, and using circuit board diving lips, what is the best size wire to make the line tie? I'm using .35 stainless wire to make the line tie, drilling a hole thru the lip then bending and inserting the line tie thru the hole and cutting the tag end off at the edge of the diving lip. I insert the bill and tag end of the tie wire into the lure lip slot and use D2T or Etex to glue it in place. It's pretty difficult getting the loop in the wire and getting a straight bend that can be tuned if needed....maybe the wire is too heavy??
  9. Lurenerd


    BobP...awesome reply...can't get any clearer than that
  10. Lurenerd


    jwflipper is right...experiment around. Check this link out informative article on diving lips its got some info on what you're asking about.
  11. Hit a few garage sales....everyone has a few rattletraps in the tackle box. They're easy to strip and repaint. I've got about 30 in all different sizes...usually can get folks to throw them in with the deal for nothing.
  12. Lurenerd


    What Mark said . I trace around a factory lure and mark the angle of the diving bill then cut out the blank and the diving lip slot...works pretty well so far. Its been interesting playing around with the angle, shape and size of a diving lip to see how it changes the action of a particular lure body.
  13. Senco PC1010 for $117.00 on Amazon. I love mine, its quiet and runs two airbrushes without a hitch. Only addition was an in-hose water filter. It gets humid in Texas now and again.
  14. I sometimes use a larger belly hook and smaller back hook to get the front of a crankbait to sit a little lower in the water so as to make it dive quicker. Not sure how much it helps, but it seems reasonable.
  • Create New...