Lurenerd
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Posts posted by Lurenerd
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When I'm using a new handmade lure and trying to figure out if it fishes like I want it too I use lighter split rings and braided line. The split rings I mention are rated to 12 lbs. (if I remember correctly) so 20 lb. braid is more than strong enough to pull the split ring apart if I get hung up so badly that a lure retriever won't get it loose. I'd rather lose a hook than my prototype lure. Guess this idea could also apply to any handmade lure you really don't want to lose. I'm casting for largemouth, not the big toothy critters some of my friends up north fish for so I'm not nearly as likely to lose a 12 + lb. fish doing this...but it could happen
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On 1/25/2017 at 10:07 AM, O'l Robzilla said:
Hey all. What are most of your ideas about kill Dots? My personal preference is, I don't think I like them any bigger than the eye of the bait. But in nature they come in all sizes. What is your preference and preferred spot you like to put them?
I experimented around with kill (eye) dots on shad pattern rattle baits a lot last summer when the largemouth were feeding heavily on shad. Casting the same size, style, weight and pattern on identical rod/reel setups I found that the dot did make a difference. With a dot I got more hits than without. I tried stripes and other detail the same way and found that a simple black dot about the size of the eye and at about eye level was the most important (productive) detail I could add, or not add. It didn't seem to matter if the dot was just behind the gill or centered or at the tail just as long as it was there. No science involved, all trial and error...just saying.
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Excluding ranch dressing as a possible topcoat..... it sounds like D2T would be a good option. I'm assuming that the decal gets applied to the blank then painted to cover seams and enhance the pattern, then a clear coat followed by a D2T topcoat.
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Appreciate the response All Eyes. The line tie in the photo looks great.
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Not trying to cast any dispersions here...but does a decal come apart when hook rash gets into the decal? I've heard "this and that, one thing then another", on the subject so I'm curious. The things look pretty awesome and I'd like to learn the process of using decals and airbrushing them and sealing the decal so as to avoid problems later.
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Wash with Dawn dishwashing soap and a clean wash cloth. Use warm water, wipe them, then rinse them. If any of them have rust in them you probably should set them aside as "test rats". After that its probably a good idea to seal them with a clear sealer before painting. There are a bunch of good sealers available, AC1315 does a good job of sealing and clearing plastic lure blanks. Hope this helps answer your question. Which airbrush are you getting? Just curious.
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When making deep diving balsa lures for largemouth bass fishing, and using circuit board diving lips, what is the best size wire to make the line tie? I'm using .35 stainless wire to make the line tie, drilling a hole thru the lip then bending and inserting the line tie thru the hole and cutting the tag end off at the edge of the diving lip. I insert the bill and tag end of the tie wire into the lure lip slot and use D2T or Etex to glue it in place. It's pretty difficult getting the loop in the wire and getting a straight bend that can be tuned if needed....maybe the wire is too heavy?? Any info on how to do this better is appreciated.
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BobP...awesome reply...can't get any clearer than that
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jwflipper is right...experiment around. Check this link out
informative article on diving lips
its got some info on what you're asking about.
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Hit a few garage sales....everyone has a few rattletraps in the tackle box. They're easy to strip and repaint. I've got about 30 in all different sizes...usually can get folks to throw them in with the deal for nothing.
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What Mark said
. I trace around a factory lure and mark the angle of the diving bill then cut out the blank and the diving lip slot...works pretty well so far. Its been interesting playing around with the angle, shape and size of a diving lip to see how it changes the action of a particular lure body.
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Senco PC1010 for $117.00 on Amazon. I love mine, its quiet and runs two airbrushes without a hitch. Only addition was an in-hose water filter. It gets humid in Texas now and again.
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I sometimes use a larger belly hook and smaller back hook to get the front of a crankbait to sit a little lower in the water so as to make it dive quicker. Not sure how much it helps, but it seems reasonable.
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On 1/10/2017 at 10:15 PM, Super Ron said:
I wonder if there should just be a Blank Review thread pinned in the hard baits forum. Just post honest reviews on specific blanks AFTER you personally have run them. Things like; I purchased 50 1.5s from company XYZ . Out of the 50 1 had a defect. Painted, epoxy, size split rings and hooks used. Bait ran blah blah blah. Same example. Bought 25 110 jerkbaits from company 123. Split rings and hooks used, suspended nose first, tail first. Rose quickly, sank ETC.
I'm surprised its not been tried before. I like the idea but some vendors might be offended by the reviews particularly if the lure was, as Mark says, " a Monday car". Still its a reasonable thing if done properly....no shameless marketing allowed....no dumping on your competitors....just info on the lure blank, what was done to it and some on the lake observations regarding its performance. In the end sponsors and moderators of this site know what's best and what to avoid. We should defer to their better judgement.
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It will be interesting to read the results of your search for a better plastic lure blank. I've had mixed results when buying LC style lure blanks. Some are just awful and others not so bad. Some examples of awful would be soft plastic, loose hangers, warped diving lips, swelling and separating at the seams on a hot day at the lake...to be fair I live in Texas so a hot day on the lake is more like a brief visit to the face of the sun...to name just a few of the problems I've experienced. Odd thing is, its not related to any particular vendor. At times a batch of blanks from vendor A has no problems, but a second batch of the same blank from vendor A may not be very good at all. I'm not trying to attack resellers of lure blanks or claim unpainted blanks are bad so don't mistake my intent. Just saying I haven't found a rhyme or reason for good quality or lack of it??
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thogan6 asks an interesting question. To take it a step farther lets consider what, if anything, might be done to seal and protect a circuit board diving lip and the effect on a lures action. I've recently started building my own balsa diving crank baits and settled on circuit board as the best, and easiest, material to use for constructing diving lips. At this point, I follow RayburnGuys methodology and don't seal the circuit board diving lip with anything. But I'm wondering if some type of sealer or epoxy over the lip might not be a good idea. Some vendors claim that circuit board diving lips enhance the action of the lure due to its thin and flexible properties. Begs the question: Would using a sealer or epoxy on a circuit board diving lip have an effect on the way the lip functions? I'm sure someone on this site has experimented around with this and can offer up some insight on the subject.
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I just started working with wooden lures and found this post after goofing up the lip slots on a few lures. Great solution and easy to make...thanks to Chuck Young for sharing this idea.
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Give the leaky ones a few dips in one of the concrete sealers that folks on this site have recommended for a topcoat. They're very thin and don't add much weight and will seal the smaller leaks. Let the blanks air dry, avoid using a dehydrator or warmer to speed dry as it will cause gas to escape from the leaks and make blisters in the sealer. After painting the blanks pay extra attention when top coating around the hook hanger and line ties. (Assuming you use a 2 part epoxy) Folks on this site can answer just about any question you may have...humbly trying to contribute.
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Perfect timing. I just posted a comment asking where to get wood for lure bodies...Thanks Gino!
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Thanks to all those folks who responded to my post. Based on your responses I rounded up a set of tools that should work nicely. The next step was to get my hands on some wood for lure bodies....easier said than done. I found some balsa in 1" x 3" x 12" but no sizes or types of wood?? Couldn't find basswood in anything useable. I was hoping to have a few different types of wood to get some experience working with them. So the next question is "where do you get your wood for lure building?"
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JRammit, thanks for the info. I just read Poulson's post, lots of good info there, too.
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Exposing my lack of knowledge here....What exactly is a PVC lure? Where do you get the PVC for the lure? Is it carved like a wooden lure or formed through some other process? I'm curious, what is it, and how is it made?
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Awesome responses! Guessing its time to get going on my newest Hobby. Thanks to all.
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After giving it a lot of thought I've decided to try my hand at making wooden lures. There are several good YouTube video's on the subject and some that show a few of the tools needed to make wooden lures. My question is, What basic tools are needed to produce wooden lures, and are there any tools specific to lure making that I'll need? I'm primarily interested making my own in diving and vibrating baits. I appreciate any thoughts on the subject.
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Thinning Epoxy
in Hard Baits
Posted
BobP is right, a little goes a long way. I use plastic cups with measurements on them for the epoxy mix and an eyedropper for a few adding a few drops of denatured alcohol into the mix. Stir thoroughly. Also, I found that putting a larger plastic cup upside down over the epoxy filled measuring cup and exhaling into the larger cup then letting the mix sit covered for a short time quickly gets rid of any bubbles from the stirring. Works great and adds a little extra working time before the mix begins to harden.