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About Washougal

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  1. Washougal

    Top coat for painted reel seats?

    No matter what your painting be it a reel seat, or rod blank, you never wipe it down with anything after sanding, or scuffing. You always clean first while you have a slicker surface and remove all contaminants, than scuff/sand and if you must dust off with a soft bristle brush. If you work as mentioned before, you can impregnate contaminants into the work causing fish eyes, or worse
  2. Washougal

    swap bushings for bearings

    With the new Polymer bushings coming out that look like they are as nice as the best bearings, I might wait.
  3. Washougal

    Doug Hannon style guides

    My MW guide builds on a steelhead rod are exactly 1/2 the weight of a standard NCG setup, not the hot setup for freezing weather fishing.
  4. Washougal

    Trigger Transplant

    Was it a Fuji IPS TR trigger that was installed?
  5. Years ago when I was doing much more business, a minimum buy in straight from the manufacturers was $ 2000, and it went up from there, depending on what it was.
  6. Washougal

    restoring old rods

    Brent if I cared for those rods as much as you do, I'd fix them myself, this is not rocket science, nor does it have to be expensive. I have no idea what you have, but any moral support, or assistance I can give you just ask. A small area to work, even a kitchen counter or table, a sharp knife or better a razor blade, some thread, a few books to tension the line, and a cardboard box will get you going.
  7. Washougal

    restoring old rods

    I live to far from you to help you. Some ideas on prices you can expect to pay though may help you decide. Guides are usually in the $12 - 15 dollar a guide plus the price of the guide on simple wraps. Closed butt wraps are $35 - 45 an inch.
  8. Washougal

    Need help finding the spine!!

    Bend up, or down = straightest axis. Bend up will deflect the tip a bit straighter with the addition of you guides and wraps.
  9. Washougal

    restoring old rods

    Anything can be done with enough time and money, you didn't give much info to go on. Like new, replace enough to put them in service, or something in between? Heavy saltwater rods, surf rods, bass rods, drum/trout rods, fly rods?
  10. Washougal

    Rod Buying Help!

    Have you read the articles Tackletour did on all the swimbait rods a few years ago, could help you make your decision. A one ounce bait won't flex the rod tip correctly, just like a little crappie jig won't flex your spinnerbait rod. Just like your other rods on your boat, you'll probably need more than one swimbait rod to throw all the stuff out there.
  11. Washougal


    Depends on the year built, all the manufacturers follow the best deal. This year it's Kigan I believe, that's what that site said above also. You can always know if it's a Fuji guide, they are all stamped in the metal.
  12. Washougal

    Definition Of "tuned Rod"

    You start sanding on a blank, and I guarantee you'll blow up that blank when built, the blank manufacturers don't do it that way, we can't either. Where the spline is on a conventional cranking rod with a baitcasting reel is of no importance, the tip down position and the guides facing the direction of tension stabilizes the rod automatically. Spinning rods exhibit the same inherent stability from their guide position under tension. No matter what you do, or what position you put the rod in, under tension all rods will return to a guides down position under tension. what type reel and it's position on the rod is not important, spline position is unimportant. The spline myth was proven wrong around 40 years ago, how it continues to survive is beyond me. Trimming a blank from the tip slows a rod's action , and can only increase tip power changing no other power characteristic of the rod, cutting from the butt does decrease speed and power as Lilpdriverrat described. Blank speed is a ratio of rod flex to rod length, shortening a blank from the tip increases this ratio, and therefore decreases the speed.
  13. Washougal

    Need help finding the spine!!

    Spline finding is of no value to you, the end result will be the same no matter what you do. Lots of myths here, the casting rod will twist with guides on top no matter what you do, casting accuracy will not be affected no matter what you do, the line and lure will always follow the path of your swing, no matter what. Power difference is so miniscule I have yet to find anyone who can get it right anymore often than they can judge a coin toss. Sage and many other high end builders have never splined their rods, they build on the straightest axis, which the vast majority of the time is nowhere near the spline. A straighter rod looks nicer than a crooked one when you look down the rod while using it. The spline is not a stiff spot where everything finishes in a straight line, it is a naturally averaged spot that most blanks will align to when stressed, but not all rods will have a spline, and some have two, and many are not 180 out from each other. The material the rod is built with is spiralled down the mandrel getting stiffer and thicker for durability as it progresses down to the butt. The fibers on most rods are running straight down the blank, but the tapered material's shape leaves a spiral that is sanded out after baking. On many of my unfinished blanks I can still see this spiral and sometimes a bit of the glue ridge from the closely spiralled cellophane wrapping process before baking.
  14. Washougal

    Build or not to Build?

    I respectfully disagree a bit, my first rod I built is still in use after over 35 years, take your time and pay attention to the little details and you can't help but have a nice rod when your done. It was and is every bit as nice as the factory rod. There are things of course that you'll find that makes for better rods later on, but the first effort need not be a disaster either. Tom Kirkman wrote a book printed through Amato Press that has everything you need to know in it for a great result. $ 15 well spent. The mechanics aren't difficult, fit and finish is where the rubber meets the road.