Washougal
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Everything posted by Washougal
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Rats ate the eva off my rod handles
Washougal replied to Big Ray's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
I have no idea where the damage is and how much, but sliding a graphite tube over the existing grip would be the fastest and easiest solution, glue it down and install a new butt cap and you are done. -
Seeker Blank for Fast Moving Baits
Washougal replied to Greg's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
It was the BS706S S glass blank wasn't it. Good for any tight line persentation. -
Go to your local hardware store and buy a caliper, they are not expensive and they can be handy for other projects. You can't just go by dimensions when buying components, you also have to size the reel seat to the reel foot on the reel, they are not all the same, for instance a 17 mm reel seat may fit your back bouncing blank, but your Shimano Tekota reel has to large a reel foot to fit the reel seat, it's to long and to wide. A 20 mm reel seat is the minimum size that will accept the longer and wider reel foot of the saltwater designed Tekota reels. Happens many times on salmon rods, people purchase a rod on sale one day and than get a good deal on a reel they like at a Sportsman's Show, or someplace, but you can't put the two together and go fishing.
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Renewing several old Daiwa reels
Washougal replied to OldMan's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
If you go to a bearing/industrial supply company you can get just about any bearing you want, everything is pretty universal, with many products using the same bearings that can be bought from more than one company usually. For instance some of the ceramic bearings from a microchip processing tool just happen to fit my reels. Drag washers and parts have been kitted out for decades, used to be a company in Florida that had drag washers for just about any saltwater reel ever made. -
It just is a barrier between the sweat, oil and dirt on your hands and the cork.
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U 40 Cork Seal, or Birchwood Casey Tru Oil, this is a rub on gun stock finish. Cork doesn't really absorb anything, these are just surface coatings,
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Gone about 10 years now, can find one of the Tiger Eye blanks for sale from time to time.
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Shimano Calcutta 200A reel handle
Washougal replied to Tally's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
My 251 is maybe 30 years old and still going strong. "You need 14 bearings in a reel, or it's no good". "Your reel spool has to continue turning till your coffee's done". Right. Back when the reels had the little handles, you old timers know which ones, a company out of Louisiana I believe called Gorilla Grips I think made handles the length we use now as direct replacements. The internet is full of replacements now, but have no idea of their qualiity. Still have some old Shimano Bantam 101's with the V spool still going strong with the Gorills Grips. -
Mine Z is quieter than the Curados I've fished with in the boat, and casts just a bit further. You can kit out any of the 13's with the polymer bearings supposedly.
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I like the Concept Z 13 Fishing reel, no bearings at all. Cast like it is rocket propelled.
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Gloss Top Coat for Aluminum Reel Frame
Washougal replied to Mountainman83's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
Automotive clear coat, just like the paint you probably used. -
Looking for rainshadow XMB873 discontinued blanks
Washougal replied to TCC's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
Have you looked at the Rainshadow IMMC72M as a replacement? -
Devcon 2 epoxy, blank's graphite fibers held in epoxy, do the math.
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Top coat for painted reel seats?
Washougal replied to Maine Tackle's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
No matter what your painting be it a reel seat, or rod blank, you never wipe it down with anything after sanding, or scuffing. You always clean first while you have a slicker surface and remove all contaminants, than scuff/sand and if you must dust off with a soft bristle brush. If you work as mentioned before, you can impregnate contaminants into the work causing fish eyes, or worse -
With the new Polymer bushings coming out that look like they are as nice as the best bearings, I might wait.
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My MW guide builds on a steelhead rod are exactly 1/2 the weight of a standard NCG setup, not the hot setup for freezing weather fishing.
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Was it a Fuji IPS TR trigger that was installed?
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Brent if I cared for those rods as much as you do, I'd fix them myself, this is not rocket science, nor does it have to be expensive. I have no idea what you have, but any moral support, or assistance I can give you just ask. A small area to work, even a kitchen counter or table, a sharp knife or better a razor blade, some thread, a few books to tension the line, and a cardboard box will get you going.
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I live to far from you to help you. Some ideas on prices you can expect to pay though may help you decide. Guides are usually in the $12 - 15 dollar a guide plus the price of the guide on simple wraps. Closed butt wraps are $35 - 45 an inch.
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Need help finding the spine!!
Washougal replied to jbrandon47's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
Bend up, or down = straightest axis. Bend up will deflect the tip a bit straighter with the addition of you guides and wraps.- 6 replies
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- mudhole
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Anything can be done with enough time and money, you didn't give much info to go on. Like new, replace enough to put them in service, or something in between? Heavy saltwater rods, surf rods, bass rods, drum/trout rods, fly rods?
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Have you read the articles Tackletour did on all the swimbait rods a few years ago, could help you make your decision. A one ounce bait won't flex the rod tip correctly, just like a little crappie jig won't flex your spinnerbait rod. Just like your other rods on your boat, you'll probably need more than one swimbait rod to throw all the stuff out there.
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Depends on the year built, all the manufacturers follow the best deal. This year it's Kigan I believe, that's what that site said above also. You can always know if it's a Fuji guide, they are all stamped in the metal.