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azsouth

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Everything posted by azsouth

  1. azsouth

    Molds

    There is always a chance to sell it to one person but not always likely. Biggest problem I see is shipping cost....List it and see is the only way.
  2. It's a deep pour Epoxy. I find it amazing how technology changes so fast, not sure the durability of thinner applications will work but I would like to hear if anyone is using a Deep pour epoxy for lures.
  3. I watched some videos but always willing to take any advice.
  4. I tried looking it up without the exact name! but what is the name of the jigs with the skirt basically stands in a ball shape and how to achieve it? Thx in advance.
  5. Take hardware off and tape up the bill, then light scuff the bait, then have at it....Yes you will have to seal it.
  6. proportionate to the size of the bait. Most Garage bait makers that I have seen, usually try multiple lips on each bait.
  7. Wake baits normally do quite a bit better with a moveable tail. A fixed tail seems to kill the action on any wake I have made.
  8. It depends on the bait, how big the tail is relevant to the bait, type of tail ( hard to soft )... Generally for argument sake glide baits have a stationary tail and wake/divers have a moveable tail. Yes the type of tail can/will drastically give or take away movement depending on the bait. Specifics can only be answered properly with the type, size and weight of the bait. Built a few baits.... I always try several different tails to get the exact action I want. My .02
  9. Isn't there someway we can help Smalljaw? Help people when they are down!
  10. I sure would enjoy a few of those unfinished jigs, Hit me up if you don't mind.
  11. Have you tried adding a bit of lead to the hooks for better ballast?
  12. Best way for me is to have bait disassembled, but if you can't/won't do that...I wrap rubber bands in the joint(s).
  13. Commercial pvc/plastic bait ..... Most are Ultrasonically welded hence the seem in the bait. It doesn't take much looking into commercial bait making to get the answers but then you start talking about quite a bit of money. Most garage guys that build baits don't use computers and programs to build their baits but just start building with a tough learning curve and help from other builders. First thing to do is pick the style of bait you want then have at it... after a few failures you will have some pretty specific questions for people with more experience. Like "Hillbilly Voodoo" said be careful of the rabbit hole you're heading for! I have personally made some good baits and quite a few great paper weights.
  14. The one thing I can tell you..."let the fish decide"... not people. I have made a few baits and the ones I thought were Caracter/Poorly painted/wonky baits just absolutely got smashed. If your anything like most guys making baits you are your own worst critic. I think it's a great looking bait but what do the fish say?
  15. Most of the sellers have a $$ amount to bring it to 15 days.
  16. Easy way to figure if you have the wrong light....put it out in the direct sun for 10 minutes.
  17. Tacky means it is NOT Fully cured. So more time under the light and closer to the resin will help dramatically Unless you are going for a light matte finish, then just put on a glove and run over the tacky resin then fully cure before it has time to gloss over.
  18. Temperature and humidity might come into play. Most people are reluctant to give up their exact procedures to get desired finish. Missing a single step can end bad.
  19. Hook rash is normal.... trying to balance weight to function is something your going to have to determine yourself. Description to explanation to actually doing it is almost impossible to replicate from area to area because of temperature, humidity, storage and type of finish... So the more time you put in the better you will get. If you have any exact/direct questions, there is a lot of experience here to answer.
  20. Easiest way to figure out if it's lack of weight ....put some weight on the front hook and try it.
  21. Use the manufacturer specs for UV Resin...here are the ones I use. Amazon.com: 3D Printer UV Resin Curing Light for SLA/DLP/LCD 3D Printing, Solidify Photosensitive Resin, 405nm UV LED Lights with 60w Output Affect : Industrial & Scientific
  22. any dealer preference?
  23. You can lead a horse to water.....but you can't make him drink.
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