azsouth
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Posts posted by azsouth
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I watched some videos but always willing to take any advice.
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Awesome thanks!
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I tried looking it up without the exact name! but what is the name of the jigs with the skirt basically stands in a ball shape and how to achieve it?
Thx in advance.
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Take hardware off and tape up the bill, then light scuff the bait, then have at it....Yes you will have to seal it.
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proportionate to the size of the bait. Most Garage bait makers that I have seen, usually try multiple lips on each bait.
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Wake baits normally do quite a bit better with a moveable tail.
A fixed tail seems to kill the action on any wake I have made.
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It depends on the bait, how big the tail is relevant to the bait, type of tail ( hard to soft )...
Generally for argument sake glide baits have a stationary tail and wake/divers have a moveable tail.
Yes the type of tail can/will drastically give or take away movement depending on the bait.
Specifics can only be answered properly with the type, size and weight of the bait.
Built a few baits.... I always try several different tails to get the exact action I want.
My .02
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Isn't there someway we can help Smalljaw?
Help people when they are down!
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Make one.
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22 hours ago, JHM12345 said:
Any know where I could order Deep Bandit blanks? I've order a couple different ones off Amazon and none of them will run on the current of the Niagara River they just spin. Thanks JHM
Have you tried adding a bit of lead to the hooks for better ballast?
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Best way for me is to have bait disassembled, but if you can't/won't do that...I wrap rubber bands in the joint(s).
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Commercial pvc/plastic bait ..... Most are Ultrasonically welded hence the seem in the bait. It doesn't take much looking into commercial bait making to get the answers but then you start talking about quite a bit of money.
Most garage guys that build baits don't use computers and programs to build their baits but just start building with a tough learning curve and help from other builders.
First thing to do is pick the style of bait you want then have at it... after a few failures you will have some pretty specific questions for people with more experience.
Like "Hillbilly Voodoo" said be careful of the rabbit hole you're heading for!
I have personally made some good baits and quite a few great paper weights.
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The one thing I can tell you..."let the fish decide"... not people.
I have made a few baits and the ones I thought were Caracter/Poorly painted/wonky baits just absolutely got smashed.
If your anything like most guys making baits you are your own worst critic.
I think it's a great looking bait but what do the fish say?
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Most of the sellers have a $$ amount to bring it to 15 days.
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Easy way to figure if you have the wrong light....put it out in the direct sun for 10 minutes.
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Tacky means it is NOT Fully cured. So more time under the light and closer to the resin will help dramatically
Unless you are going for a light matte finish, then just put on a glove and run over the tacky resin then fully cure before it has time to gloss over.
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Temperature and humidity might come into play. Most people are reluctant to give up their exact procedures to get desired finish. Missing a single step can end bad.
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Hook rash is normal.... trying to balance weight to function is something your going to have to determine yourself.
Description to explanation to actually doing it is almost impossible to replicate from area to area because of temperature, humidity, storage and type of finish... So the more time you put in the better you will get.
If you have any exact/direct questions, there is a lot of experience here to answer.
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Easiest way to figure out if it's lack of weight ....put some weight on the front hook and try it.
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Use the manufacturer specs for UV Resin...here are the ones I use.
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3 hours ago, cadman said:
I have never had good luck with crane swivels as far as spinning consistently. The only time I use them would be for jigs that take a small Colorado blade where consistent spinning is not necessary. So what I have replaced these with are the roller swivels. They aren't that much more and I found them to be more fluid in rotation than the crane swivels. I have also tried them on spinnerbaits for the top blade and they work extremely well without any problems. You should check them out.
any dealer preference?
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You can lead a horse to water.....but you can't make him drink.
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KBS takes up to 2 weeks to fully cure in favorable conditions, If it's not above 70 there is a very good chance of multiple failures and that is not even dealing with humidity.
Personally I went with UV hard cured resin to eliminate all the hassle.
Liquid Glass
in Hard Baits
Posted
It's a deep pour Epoxy. I find it amazing how technology changes so fast, not sure the durability of thinner applications will work but I would like to hear if anyone is using a Deep pour epoxy for lures.