Hannibal
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Everything posted by Hannibal
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They have the single row bed but don’t advertise it. But I’m not going to pay $270 for something I can build myself.
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They are a fluid bed that is built like a trough designed to coat an entire row of jigs at a single time. Say for example a rack of 20 at a time.
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Has anyone built or own a single row fluidbed? I’m looking to build one but would like to see one first.
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Does anyone have a single row fluid bed or any pics of one? I want to make one to be able to powder coat multiple jigs at once. Otherwise the going rate for one from cs paints is $270.
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Well I figured out the problem. The base color wasn't warm enough to let any other colors crosslink. Glad that delema is over. Thanks to everyone for the support and ideas.
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Is there an alternative to the CS Paints vinyl thinner that someone could buy at a "home" store? I mainly need it for brush cleaning and $15 for a quart seems pretty steep plus shipping. It looks like the main ingredient is xylene? Any info would be great.
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I ordered 1/8" high temp masking tape from Columbia coatings and use it to cover the eyelets. It seems to work well but it is very tedious. I'll post pics when I get some to pass on the knowledge I have acquired in this process.
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After further analysis of the powders I'm using, all of the super glow colors and the ruby slippers are doing it. The supplier I bought them from repackages them from bulk into their own containers. So that being said, I believe the supply is either bad or contaminated. None of my other colors have this problem including others from the same supplier or otherwise.
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I'll try calling pro tec after the holidays and see what they say.
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The base color is being applied with a fluid bed. The second color is being tapped on top. The base is not cured prior to second color application. The second color is pro tec super glow green. The only other color I have this cracking problem with is the ruby slippers. With that color, it doesn't matter if there is a base coat or not. In both cases the cracking is very visible but you can't feel the fissures at all with a fingernail. If needed I'll try to post pics as well.
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What might be causing my powder paint to crack? It's only happening to the second color on top of the base color.
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I am using a fluid bed but the issue with the hemostats, which I have straight and 45* bend versions, is that the hook eyes are not parallel to the shank. They sit at 90* to the hook shank thus causing the hemostats to be perpendicular to the jig and not allowing the room to dip in the fluid bed.
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Has anyone used one of the fume exhauster fans sold for soldering? I was wondering if it would work good as a fume absorber for vinyl paint if I made a small paint booth from a box or plastic tote. I don't have the room or climate right now to vent out a window. Thoughts?
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I can't do the pliars idea because the eyelets are 90* to the hook shank. But didn't know about the teflon tape.
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I though that about that stuff too. I'm assuming that during the heating phase, that it's cool by the time you dip into the powder. So the powder doesn't stick to the tape?
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Ok I'm coming to this group in search of answers. I'm powder painting tungsten ice jigs and am running into problems getting the eyelets cleaned out without chipping the powder coat. Some of the holes are tiny being that they are # 18 hooks all the way up to # 8 hooks. What are the ways any of you are getting this done with success?
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So it's probably a slow acting effect. Similar to silicosis, long term exposure over a long duration of time will have a cumulative affect. Good to know.
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So who knows what TGIC means on some of their colors?
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The base colors are powder painted then cured. I'm trying to figure out what others are using for stripes/lines on jigs. They lack the uniformity I'm after but then again what is "uniform" in nature? I've seen very small stencils but look to be real time consuming and tedious.
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That's what I was wondering. They have an enormous selection. So do they work as well in a flow bed too?
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Does anyone know if you can use the same process for Columbia products that you use for pro-tec? Meaning the heat and dip process or do you have to use electrolysis?
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I was wondering what everyone is doing to paint stripes on teardrop tungsten jigs. Like the kind on a firetiger pattern. And what paint you are using. I currently have vinyl paint but don't want to use it in the house for the obvious reasons. I have tried the acrylic paint for glass and ceramics but not getting the results I'm after.
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First hello to all in this community. Iam in the process of starting a custom painted tungsten jig business. I have my powder paint system down but am running into issues with painting lines on the jigs uniformly. By lines, im refering to stripes if you will like a firetiger pattern. Im wondering what all of you are doing to accomplish this.
