DoubleT

I have been powder painting jig heads and curing them in the oven afterwards. I would like to paint on the eyes. The trouble that I am having is when I paint on the white I can almost immediately see it turn an off color. I figure it is some sort of reaction between it and the powder paint. I am using Component Systems powder paint and the vinyl lure and jig paint. Have any of you folks experienced this and is there a way to prevent it from happening? Thanks for the input.

I gave the syringe method a shot. I tried it with Devcon 2 ton. I used a 16 gauge needle which was the biggest that I could find. It worked decent until the epoxy started to thicken. It was a nightmare after that. I think I was able to get the epoxy in about 6 holes before it quit working. I went back to my old method.

Great info. Thank you sir.

Thank you for the input folks.

Thank you Ben. That's the info I was looking for. Does the syringe that you are using have the black silicone seal?

Thanks Hillbilly. Good info.

Very good info. Thanks AZ. I will likely stay with my original method. I use the D2T 30 min as well. Good stuff.

Thanks Mark. How much time do you have to align the screw eyes. That's my only reservation with using super glue. Plus the screws are 1.5" long.

Thanks BobP for your thoughts. I'm not necessarily concerned with the screw eyes coming out of the lure. The screw eyes would likely wring off before screwing out. I have seen some testing on that. I was just curious if folks had a different way to apply the epoxy and get it into the bottom of the holes with something other than a piece of wire. The wire may likely be the best/most used method though,

I have a question for you guys working with wood. I make musky baits out of cedar. What method works best for getting two part epoxy down in the bottom of the screw eye holes? I have been poking it down in the hole with a piece of wire which works but there has to be a better way. I would like to try disposable syringes/pipettes or something along those lines. Just wanted your thoughts and curious as to which method works best for you. I tried the search option but didn't find anything specific. Thanks guys.

It does really well. They offer two different lengths. The longer one works great for a 5 gallon bucket. The other thing that I really like about it is the paddles are made of very rigid plastic. It really does well at breaking up any hard packed material while not tearing up the bottom of the plastic bucket. Im sure there are other really good ones out there but I cant say anything negative about this one at all.

This is the one that I use. Works like a dream and less than 8 dollars at Lowes.

Gotcha. Great idea.

I just leave mine in the five gallon bucket. When I need some plastisol, I mix it with a paint mixer and a cordless drill while being sure to scrape the bottom good. I then get the amount that I need with a measuring cup. I originally transferred the 5 gallon bucket to gallon jugs but found out quickly that breaking up hard packed material in the bottom of a gallon jug through a 1 inch opening wasn't much fun. I cut the tops off of the jugs, stirred the packed material back into suspension and poured them all back into the 5 gallon bucket. Not a ounce of trouble since.

I am relatively new at building soft plastic baits. I make large (13 ounces of plastisol) musky baits. The plastic that I used initially didn't hard pack at all and I loved that aspect of it. The problem that I experienced with it was making repairs and paint adhesion. The manufacturer of that particular plastisol adds something to the plastic that makes it constantly exude oil. No matter how much I washed it prior to paint I always had some paint adhesion problems. Also, you can forget making repairs to torn baits. I tried several different adhesives and never had any luck. If anyone is aware of a plastisol (saltwater/hard formula) that doesn't hard pack and is easy to paint and repair, I am all ears. Not a plumber. Locomotive Electrician. lol. I had a piece of left over pex from a small plumbing project at the house. The pex pipe worked great though. It didn't scratch or gouge the bottom of the bucket while breaking up the hard packed material. This is the paint mixing arm that I purchased at Lowes. It worked great and was really easy to clean off.

Will do Frank. Thank you

About a month ago I bought a 5 gallon bucket of hard formula plastic. For ease of handling, I also purchased 5 one gallon plastic jugs. Before I transferred to the jugs I mixed everything up really well with a paint mixing arm on a drill. I had been doing my best to give the jugs a good shake every couple days to keep things in suspension. Well.......I forgot and they sat for about a week. I had about a 1/4 inch of material hard packed in the bottom of each jug. I shook each jug like a mad man and while it did mix some of the material back in, a lot of it stayed tight to the bottom. So I eventually (after scraping with a piece of PEX pipe) was able to get it all broke free. I poured the five jugs back into my original 5 gallon bucket and tossed the jugs. At least working from the 5 gallon bucket I can use the mixing arm to bust up the hard pack and get the plastic back to a usable state. I plan to give the 5 gallon bucket a occasional shake in hopes of not having to deal with a large amount of hard packed material.

Is there a percent humidity that any of you guys consider to be too high to heat plastic in order to avoid problems with bubbles?

I contacted the manufacturer and was told that they have had some issues in the past with their plastisol not being degassed properly. The plastisol that i received from them was a sample so to me it wasn't that big of a deal. If I had paid for it, now that would have been a different story. As suggested by BaitJunky, at some point I am going to get a vacuum chamber. I then could degass the plastisol as well as resin that I use for making hard baits.

Ahhhhhhhh. Gotcha. Thank you

As far as humidity goes how much is too high to heat plastic. I heat my plastic in a microwave. With 8 ounces of plastic I normally go 1.5 min first. Then 45 seconds and on down till I get to around 350ish. Gently stirring between each heat cycle. When degassing do you do it before or after heating the plastic? Thank you for the info.

Agreed

I use a instant read digital thermometer. It started to get the bubbles about the time it was changing back to thin (330ish). I scraped the bubbles to the outer edge and was able to use it but certainly dont want to have to do that every time. Now this could have had an impact on things. Not sure what the actual humidity was but it was hot out and it had rained earlier in the day. Whats odd though is that I heated another brand of plastic and it did great. Maybe the lureworks is just more sensitive to humidity.

Thanks for the info. I will try heating it slower. Lureworks has a youtube video of them heating pourasol. I heated it relatively in the same manner. I realize it may have been a difference in microwaves though. I heated up some lurecraft economy plastic and it does great. My only concern with it is that it contains phthalates. I plan to call them and discuss the other formulas they offer that are phthalate free to see how they will perform.

I recently got some Lureworks Pourasol. I had never used it before and wanted to give it a try. I heated it in the microwave and to my surprise a ton of bubbles formed. It was frothy on top. I thought maybe that it may have been where I added Do-It colorant to Lureworks plastic. I heated another 4 ounces without any colorant at all and it bubbled up as well. Have any of you guys experienced this recently. I plan to give Bruce a call on Monday but thought that I would check here first. I heated up another brand of plastic that I have and it heated up with very little bubbles. Thanks for the info.