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Tiderunner

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  1. Through the past couple of year I have made a lot of "experiments". Not exactly the color I want, old and curling, too heavy, too light...etc We all have these. Started cleaning out the work area the other day, and while I usually just remelt these "experiments" back into black.because of the laminates, and glitters there are some that I put aside until our experts can respond. The put asides have already been scented, and worm oiled. Can I remelt these? I know the scent is ok, but the worm oil? All M-F and Lurecraft, name brand stuff. Maybe I can wash them off in soapy water to dilute the oil? There has to be something I can do with these. I figured I'd wait until I hear back. No need to blow up my microwave, or fry off my first three layers of skin.
  2. I'm a little late to the dance, but better late than never. For my perch senko baits, I use Lureworks Scuppernong for the amber color, and a baby bass or green watermelon for the green. Light of course. For the amber side I have tried amber, mustard, and a few others. Scuppernong seems to work the best. Orange glitter in the amber part, and green glitter and a tiny biy of black for the green part. I think the glitter I use is Emerald Green. Weight is around 10.5 grams. About the same as yamo weight. The laminate comes out somewhere between a perch color and a pumpkinseed sunfish coloring. Has been deadly for me.
  3. Haven't been on in a while, but taken some advice from you all. I beat the hell out of it , stir and stir some more, and seems to work out ok. Not a fan of the stuff, but I have a quart and it will last me until hell freezes over. Once hell thaws out I will go back to the M-F hardener.
  4. Just bought some from Lure Works about a month ago. Is it discontinued or out of stock?
  5. Add stir, heat remove stir, heat remove stir, heat remove stir. This stuff is almost like a caulk. The other brands I've used were liquid. This stuff though certainly making the plastic hard, just doesn't seem to want to stir in completely. I beat the hell out of the stuff, and still won't mix in completely. It just seems to turn into lumps in the plastisol.
  6. Recently bought a quart of LureWorks hardener and having an issue with it. Whenever I heat it, it seems to burn, or turn into lumps and these lumps turn reddish purple ruining whatever bait I happen to be making. I have had problems with the hardener on reheated plastic, and new plastisol. I'm not new at pouring and never had this problem before. Any idea whats going on with this. I used MF hardener in the past without issue. I only bought the LW because I had an order there, and was running low. I have a full quart. too much to to toss. This is happening whether I add at the beginning of the heating or during. Nothing seems to change the outcome. Ideas?
  7. I was making these a couple of years ago, and never wrote it down. figured it out while experimenting. I was making Senko type. I need to make more. As soon as I figure it out ( again ) and write it down this time I will post it. I remember using amber green, some watermelon, and green and orange glitter. I find this color deadly.
  8. Got my eyes on an Angling AI mold for 5" grub. Sale priced so reasonable. ON the homepage for their website is shows a 21-28 day lead time. Does this mean that mold is made one at a time, or is it a stock mold that can be sent out. Do I wait 3-4 weeks for my order? Or does it mean its 21-28 days for custom molds. I figured I'd ask here first, cuz if their that busy I didn't know if an email would be answered. Any other suggestions for a 5" grub mold supplier? Thanks in advance.
  9. After s year of using glass and 2 years of heavy use my Do It large (9oz ) injector shows a lot of scoring inside, but no damage to O rings. However using the injector this past weekend I can hear air coming out of the Oring on the plunger. Actually I feel lucky to get 2 years out of the O rings. That said, I ordered 2 new O rings from Do It, Price was $4.98 shipping with the "Super Savor" was 8.95?? imagine if I didn't use a "Super Saver " . They could put those two things in an envelope with fist class postage for .49 Where do you guys buy O rings? I really hate to spend a few hours wandering around the orange superstore looking for those small items. Or another 2 hours wandering around the blue superstore. Not sure if these rings are a standard size.
  10. I also used floating worms back in the early 90s. Great for fishing over slop, and lily pads. I had found the Power Worms to be the best, then they changed them to suspending. So that's when I began pouring my own plastics. I use a hand poured 7inch paddle tail which I believe I bought from Barlows many years ago. I've recently tried reproducing those worms from 20 years ago with no luck. I just can't seem to add enough floater to keep them floating. The finished product comes out tacky and brittle . Don't know what has changed in the products But if you do end up making your own, write your recipe down. That seems to be my problem. I am wishing that someone made a 7"or 8" paddle tail worm injection mold.
  11. Ditto for me too. At one time I used Camo PowerWorms exclusively. So it was only natural to make my own. I've been trying for over a year now, and can't seem to get it quite right. There is an iridescence to it that I can't seem to duplicate. I've tried a number of glitter combos, reds, greens, hologram, to try and get that but just can't seem to get it. I am going to try and add some hi lite to my colors soon, if LureCraft ever gets my order to me ( 11 days and counting I even paid for premium shipping ) I'll let you know how that all works out. Oh yeah, I got the oxblood, and moss green from LureCraft.
  12. Tiderunner

    Injection Molds

    and if you decide to split up Id be interested in the Senko and 5" double tail grub molds, and possibly the single injector.
  13. I have laminate plates for my molds, so I/ll use the leftovers that won't fill an entire mold to male laminated baits. I can only make a few at a time because the mold, injector get too hot, and make the colors run together. Sometimes I'll add my experiments together, and just get a non nondescript color, or a color sometimes close to the original. I'll use these myself when supplies run low, or if the color comes out pretty ok, I share them with friends. There's always something you can do with left over plastic. Also, I pour my hot plastic into the injector, not suck it up, then I bleed off air. Much like preparing a syringe for an injection. Keep your stirring to a minimum. This should help with bubbles.
  14. Right to left. No additives, then with 320 grit glass beads. then with salt and glass beads, then trying to duplicate GY 197 Plastic is Baitjunkys medium.
  15. I found and maybe its my imagination that I need to heat the plastic higher when using glass beads. I've scorched it a few times Call it careless. I'll try going sans stabilizer and see what happens I think the lack of clarity in my bait when using the extra fine media is that you have to use a lot of it, Same weight, but more volume due to the size of the beads. That puts a whole lot of those tiny beads in a bait, when a larger bead would have the same weight as a number of the little ones. For the darker baits I made, that extra fine stuff made a great bait. heavy in weight. Lots of wiggle yet durable.
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