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Tiderunner last won the day on April 3

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  1. I have made hundreds of floating baits using the floating "bubble" additive, and have never experienced the baits being too soft. If anything, they were hardened up using the additive. I use mostly soft plastisol. And yes the additive does wash out the color. One color I've made a lot of floating baits with is black. That should be the easiest color to make, but even black requires a lot of colorant to make it truly black, or you end up with grey of a washed out black. I'm using a lot of additive to make baits that will float high on the surface to float over lily pads and such. Some other bait makers just make their baits float enough to suspend. Either way plan on using a lot of colorant. And if you want your biats to float. test the first couple of baits in a bucket of water with a hook in it. Once on the water with floating baits it's too late to find out they don't float.
  2. The weighted hook is basically the casting jig mold without the body if the hook fits one it should fit the other I’ll place an order tonight for the Gami 345 never knew the existed until now thanks for the help
  3. Will these fit those 2 molds without modification? Sorry took so long to get back to y'all. Been tied up. Getting ready to send in an order.Really don't want those Mustad hooks again
  4. I have the Do It casting jig mold SMJ-3-MF And the Weighted Hook moldSMB-4--MTD and using Mustad hook 32886BLN
  5. Benn using Mustad 32886 Hooks for my swim jigs, and I have to say, the quality of the hooks leaves something to be desired. The eyes are crooked, bent, missing altogether, The beak off when removing excess paint. They're really just junk. Any suggestion on another quality hook I can use without having to modifying the mold? There has got to be something better.
  6. I used clear paint. Didn't have to worry about the black coming off. Whatever paint I used didn't seem to bother the baits much, except for the flashing at the edges.
  7. Some 3m 5200, or the faster curing 5400 ( 24 hrs is not fast in my world ) applied with a toothpick? I have also coated my epoxied weedguard glue spot with UV resin once epoxy cures.
  8. I have painted my essential mold as well using hi temp engine paint as I was just too lazy and inpatient to tape it all off. It worked well for a will. After a bunch of pourings I noticed a lot of flashing around my baits. I scuffed the molds a bit with light sandpaper, but that maybe ten thousandths or less of an inch from the paint heating away was enough so that the mold didn't close right. Not even noticeable to the eye. Add to the fact that when the molds get hot they seem to bow a tiny bit, and it seems after multiple reheats of the plastic it flows better, easier. The plastic found all these little imperfections. I can see where the paint has warn away, and where some still remains. Just enough to cause the flashing If I plan to use this mold again, it will have to be soaked in a solvent and wire brush cleaned. FWIW, I'd rather spend the money on a CNC mold. Less aggravation, less time consuming, and better quality baits. That said. Other essential molds I have used were made baits that were nearly as shiny smooth as CNC cut molds. In particular, a ribbon worm mold. Baits are as shiny as can be. My experiences would advise anyone to pour a few baits first before you paint the molds. See how they come out and go from there, Painting before pouring was my mistake thanks to watching YT videos.
  9. If you have some split shot sitting around, drop one of two in the bottle. Will act as sort of a spray paint can when you shake. The bigger the bottle the bigger the split shot you can use. If the bottle is big enough, use marbles.
  10. Tiderunner


    Pear Powder is hard to come by! But not trying to hijack the thread. Do you find the UV stuff makes a difference? I've used glow powders, mostly for saltwater and it seems to make a difference in the briny. But no difference in fresh water. I've been wanting to try the UV, but just spent another $150 this week on more supplies and colors. And like all the other posters. go with the basics, but don't get too hung up on colors, because in time you'll have more variations of coloring than you'll ever need. There has to be some sort of hotline for this this addiction!
  11. Agreed. I look at it as more of like paint curing, or fiberglass resin, varnish, etc. Called Offgassing. My thought is the smell of freshly baked plastisol would turn off the fish. So I let mine sit flat for at least 24 hrs, longer if I forget about them. To off-gas. Then at bagging I add more than enough 50/50 mix worm oil and scent juice. I do however use a lot of hardener in some baits. And The next day, what I thought were perfect firmness are now too stiff. Something to keep in mind when using additives, like salt or hardener. They will get a bit firmer after this so- called curing.
  12. I'm more of a metal mold person with that syndrome. I have some that I didn't even know I had. Both fresh and saltwater. I pour both tin and lead from each for different states where I fish. Drawers full of hooks. inserts. In soft plastics, I never seem to be able to find what I want in stores, so I just go and order another mold. My bigger issue is Color Aquirement Syndrome. I got more coloring and glitter color just because. And if I can't get the color just right, I'll order another that I think will help. Same way with powder paints, and spray paints. I guess I just like flamboyant colors!
  13. What a coincidence All the colors mixed together gave me a brick red color, not quite brown, but brick! Y'all jinxed me. I just ordered some brown coloring, and between the brick color, and all the different color glitter I'll add some brown, and maybe Ill get something close to the berkley camo. I also melted all my greens. Watermelon, baby bass, green pumpkin, etc. I got a really nice shade of green, almost emeralrd. And with all the different colored glitter in that, it almost looks like a Christmas tree. I may try to darken that just a bit, and pour some senkos, and wacky worms with it. Of course if I tried to make that color on purpose it would have never happened! I also throw away a bunch from the bottom of my pyrex cups. Most of it showing signs of too many reheats. Some colors I'll never use. And so on . The biggest experiment was morning dawn that I tried to make for someone. There's a color I'll never use. When I start to pour I share some photos.
  14. Got bored tonight and melted down all my mistakes , and experiments from the last 2 years or so. All colors mixed together. All types of glitter. Took all my leftover black stuff, melted that into one. Black was easy...it stayed black. The multi-color stuff came out a sort of a light clay? color. Or maybe clayish going towards grays? Gave me about a quart of plastic to melt into something else. What new color or colors.would you guys make out of this color. And black doesn't count! I still have a lot of used stuff leftover. I may end up melting that down too. Mir all my greens, oranges, fluorescent, etc into each family it belongs with and use it for something else.
  15. Use your Lee pot. Just read my post above to keep it clean. I flux my lead, even if its clean lead, every time I melt an ingot. You can make ingots of mini muffins, just make sure whichever you make fits in the pot when you're done. One final thing I do after each pouring session, and I don't recommend this for anybody of faint heart, I empty the pot as completely as I can, take a strong pipe wrench grab the base and turn the pot over, and give it a good, but not crazy wrap on my workbench surface.( mine is metal), you'd be surprised at how much crud comes out. Mostly unidentifiable stuff. To clean out the spout I use a fish hook with no barb bent to a 90* angle, or a spinnerbait wire.Heat the wire till red hot, and run it up the spout a couple of times. Every now and then, remove the plunger thing, and go all the way up the spout and hit the plunger lightly with some sandpaper.Especially the tip. Don't go crazy though!
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