Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About Tiderunner

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I use LureWorks Morning Dawn 160 to get the pink. Seems a lot easier than mixing colors to get one. Then my blue is a cobalt type blue. I cant you exactly what it is as the printing on the label washed off. I pour the dark colors first when making a laminate, then the light color so the hot plastic of the dark doesn't melt into the ighter color. As far as exact recipe, I can't give you that. Not because of secrets, but because of the different additives I use. I may make some with hardener, some with more salt or glass beads. Some guy helped me out one day, tournament guy. I told him I'd pour some not senkos for him. One color he requested was morning dawn. I made them to his specs, and when he got me he called me and told me they were perfect. He asked me to make more, and how much they would cost. Told him .30 each, and that the more he ordered the more he's save because of postage. Never heard from him again. Oh well guess he liked free better. But he also liked my Morning Dawn
  2. Highlights, glow powders, pearl powders. More glitter colors than I'll use in my lifetime. I've got bottle and bottle of colorant. Some the names have washed off, so I have to play with those to see what they are. Some of those colorants look the same in the bottle. Sometimes, I''ll heat some plastic and play just to see what colors I can make, then add some of the highlights, and see what that makes and then add pearl...and so on. Who are the best suppliers of clearcoat plastisol?
  3. I microwave my plastic, so I can use the pan method you use with a pyrex dish. Will be a while before the wife discovers the pan missing, Basically will be trial and error. The tall pyrex beakers actually hold over a quart of liquid, so while tall enough I really don't want to heat that much at once. I've been pouring plastice for over 20 years, so I'll probably figure it out eventually. My main reason for tall container was so I can dip the baits in the shape they were made, the hang them the same way to cool. Straight up and down the whole way.
  4. That one is a pic from the mold makers site. It looks like its plain black. The commercially made bait that I use has a sort of iridescence to it, as though it's made in two layers. As soon as it hits the water you can see it. That is why I asked earlier too if glitter can be added to the clearisol. So I can experiment with this bait, and expand beyond just what is available from the maker. Different water and species, at least for me call for different colors. or even if I want to paint them intead of just colorings, and glittler. The materials are cheap enough. Let's be real, we all spend a buttload of money, so whats a few more dollars? And I am also going to start making paddletail swimbaits which most likely I'll paint. I'm pretty sure there are others here that like to play and see what they can come up with.
  5. Can glitter be added to the clearcoat?
  6. This is the lure I plan on making, that will be dipped.
  7. Thanks for the tip Joe. I bookmarked a number of different suppliers that sell the beakers, and will order from one of them. Next question. Should I wait until original lure cools before dipping, say 24 hours? Or can I dip right away, or not so much right away but within an short period of time?
  8. As the cold weather sets in it's time for me to restock the workbench. I want to try something different . I want to clearcoat my senkos, and my wacky worms. I got a pretty good idea, on how to clearcoat the items, What I don't know is what type of container you heat the plastisol in? I need sometthing that is deep enough for 5" senkos, and the 5" wacky type worms,then from there I'm going to start pouring paddle tail minnows. I'm guessing that multiple reheats will discolor the clearcoat , so what type of vessel do y'all use so you don't waste a lot of the clearcoat? Also best brand of Clear plastisol to use?
  9. Through the past couple of year I have made a lot of "experiments". Not exactly the color I want, old and curling, too heavy, too light...etc We all have these. Started cleaning out the work area the other day, and while I usually just remelt these "experiments" back into black.because of the laminates, and glitters there are some that I put aside until our experts can respond. The put asides have already been scented, and worm oiled. Can I remelt these? I know the scent is ok, but the worm oil? All M-F and Lurecraft, name brand stuff. Maybe I can wash them off in soapy water to dilute the oil? There has to be something I can do with these. I figured I'd wait until I hear back. No need to blow up my microwave, or fry off my first three layers of skin.
  10. I'm a little late to the dance, but better late than never. For my perch senko baits, I use Lureworks Scuppernong for the amber color, and a baby bass or green watermelon for the green. Light of course. For the amber side I have tried amber, mustard, and a few others. Scuppernong seems to work the best. Orange glitter in the amber part, and green glitter and a tiny biy of black for the green part. I think the glitter I use is Emerald Green. Weight is around 10.5 grams. About the same as yamo weight. The laminate comes out somewhere between a perch color and a pumpkinseed sunfish coloring. Has been deadly for me.
  11. Haven't been on in a while, but taken some advice from you all. I beat the hell out of it , stir and stir some more, and seems to work out ok. Not a fan of the stuff, but I have a quart and it will last me until hell freezes over. Once hell thaws out I will go back to the M-F hardener.
  12. Just bought some from Lure Works about a month ago. Is it discontinued or out of stock?
  13. Add stir, heat remove stir, heat remove stir, heat remove stir. This stuff is almost like a caulk. The other brands I've used were liquid. This stuff though certainly making the plastic hard, just doesn't seem to want to stir in completely. I beat the hell out of the stuff, and still won't mix in completely. It just seems to turn into lumps in the plastisol.
  14. Recently bought a quart of LureWorks hardener and having an issue with it. Whenever I heat it, it seems to burn, or turn into lumps and these lumps turn reddish purple ruining whatever bait I happen to be making. I have had problems with the hardener on reheated plastic, and new plastisol. I'm not new at pouring and never had this problem before. Any idea whats going on with this. I used MF hardener in the past without issue. I only bought the LW because I had an order there, and was running low. I have a full quart. too much to to toss. This is happening whether I add at the beginning of the heating or during. Nothing seems to change the outcome. Ideas?
  15. I was making these a couple of years ago, and never wrote it down. figured it out while experimenting. I was making Senko type. I need to make more. As soon as I figure it out ( again ) and write it down this time I will post it. I remember using amber green, some watermelon, and green and orange glitter. I find this color deadly.
  • Create New...