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Everything posted by Tiderunner

  1. No intention of buying an ebay special, just trying to keep my costs down. Do it sells theirs for about $50 less, but they're out of stock too. Is everyone making laminates because of the pandemic? I'm guessing supply chain issues.
  2. I make a lot of floating baits using the floaty bubble stuff. I'm experimenting with making floating, or neutral buoyancy claws for my crayfish LOL...you do know what boat means don't you? Bust Out Another Thousand Spending money on the boat! That's funny! You have to do that over the life of the boat. A hole in the ocean into which you pour lots of money. The two happiest days in a boat owners life the day he buys it and the day he sells it...And I'm sure the list goes on. I have a 24' walkaround sitting in my driveway that the engine needs to come out of. I/O Chevy 5.
  3. I'm the same. But I am way fussy, and I'm always tweaking. I may skip the soft sinking, and switch to a medium sinking, and just use the softener to adjust wiggle and texture after adding salt, glass beads,etc. On remelts of dark colors, no stabilizer, just a tiny bit on lighter colors, and none on clearish baits. I just make small batches so I don't have to worry about yellowing. That's quite the bottle assortment! I'm adding some more shelving to keep mine under control. I've got to figure out how to fix the disappearing color name on the pigment bottles.
  4. Getting tired of cutting makeshift laminate plates out of aluminum flashing. While they work great they're too slow. Decided to forego any new molds for a while and get a dual injector instead. Recommendations? I looked at the Bass Tackle one. Out of my price range, and unavailable anyway. Don't feel like waiting for one to come from overseas so that option is out. Do-It? Price is reasonable. What is everyone using? Want to keep it under $200.
  5. Update on learning curve. Cut the stainless rods a bit short so as not to interfere with the injection port. Made one a bit longer to see if that actually would happen. It doesn't. Actually makes a better bait. Will order more stainless rods, and cut them longer. also on my learning curve. Removing the stainless rods is a *%^$ if you forget to lube them. Note to self Remember to lube the rods.
  6. Reading my last years Do-It catalog, they show a " Crystal Clear" hardener. Gonna drop them a line and see if theirs is truly crystal clear, or if that's just their brand name.
  7. Try posting this in the Wire Baits forum. You'll probably get better ideas there. For lead ingots Ebay.
  8. No worries. I also have bottle of pigment with no names. So from time to time I make small runs of baits to see what it is, and then sharpie the name on the bottle. Think greens, purples. All like colors but different. And I was wrong on one account. I have been using medium plastic. Because I fish deep water (50+), and to match the weights of the original, I also use a lot of salt or glass beads. so sometimes the baits will be too soft, so add hardener, then too stiff, so add softener. We all do it. However, I'm experimenting with core shot baits without actually buying new molds, I
  9. Got my stainless rods delivered the next day. Help when the supplier is only about 20 miles away. Skipped dinner and went right to work. Had 12" rods cut each to size. Mixed some plastic to play with. Coated the rods with pure silicone lube. Heated, poured my first ones, and was immediately disappointed. I poured some medium plastic from the bottom of the bottle and for some reason, they came out gooey. NO hard pack, no plastic left. Can't quite figure that out.rod didn't center right, color cols blew through the side of a senko. Called it a night after that Tried again today. Big im
  10. Found a supplier not too far from my home that sell stainless steel round rods. Cut to whatever length you need. I ordered 6- 12" long 1/8' diameter rods that I can cut to fit. Price was negligible.
  11. Seeing I pretty much only use MF plastisol I'm pretty sure what I was using was MF hardener. The LC I have now is a pain in the keester to work with. I'm with you nearly impossible to work with. I ordered my last quart of hardener and stabilizer 3 years ago, so I use very little of the stuff. Been pouring around 30 years. I know the process, can't remember what brand I last ordered.I've tried other brands of plastic. Shipping brings the total price. up to around that of MF. So I stick with that. When I ordered lure craft I had ordered beads or hooks or something. so I added har
  12. Some time back I bought a hardener that was clear, or close to clear. The label had worn off and all print was gone from the bottle. Anyone know who might sell this type of hardener? I've since bought a bottle of hardener, I believe its Lurecraft brand that is a paste PVC resin type. Hard to use. Doesn't mix well no matter what I do. Doesn't allow me to make clear baits. Can't use it for reheats so I can dial in exactly what I want when making recipes. In short I hate the stuff. I want my clear one back! Can anyone here help me out?
  13. OK so the bug has me.I want to try this! Where do I get 1/8 inch rods?
  14. I make tones of baits with different color tails. and tons of laminates, and never had them separate. Is it possible there's something oily on the mold that's preventing a solid bond? On your hands? Or maybe plastisol needs to be mixed more? I know there are times when I don't mix well enough my finished baits have an oily feel to them. Are you using a thermometer to check your plastic temps? I've had some baits now that are three years old with no issues.
  15. While I don't know about shooting smaller cores, I do see in those videos, that once the original bait is injected with the rods in place, the bait is removed, and the tail cut off. That creates the vent that you're looking for. If you notice in the videos the tails are the same color as the injected core. At least that's what it seems to be in the videos I saw.
  16. Wouldn't you have to cut a 1/8" groove in the mold at each end to let air out, and to keep the rod centered?
  17. Not worried about not getting it. I was hoping to get it before Christmas though as it was going to be a gift for my son. We pour baits together and won't be starting until after the holidays, so no big deal. I did order the mold that weekend, and right now shipping is backed up as the systems are overwhelmed. Fed Ex, UPS, USPS are all behind on shipping, I do like the idea of the 10 cavity molds like you do. Can get more done in less time. Plus I pour some clear baits, that after reheating the plastic a few times aren't so clear anymore. I have a 9oz injector that should be enough to fil
  18. Adding a few new molds for winter pouring. So far added a cut tail worm mold, a craw mold, next up a core shot senko mold. I want to add swimbait mold next, but what I'm looking for a I can't find. Looking for a 3.5"-4" core shot swimbait mold. Anyone know of any manufacturers of that type of mold?
  19. AluminumCNC are the only type I own except for two old silicone molds from when I was first starting out. Pricey in a sense that they have a 10 cavity coreshot stickbait mold, when another producer has a 5 cavity mold for half their price. Their stuff looks top notch, but the size of some of the molds puts a lot of their molds out of reach. Both are top notch makers. Doesn't mean I won't buy other molds from them. Just can't afford to drop $200 plus on some of their molds.
  20. Interesting. I've been pouring tails for years, and never had one separate. I don't use a tail mold though. I just pour the whole bait in the tail color I want. Cut to size I want, then put cut off tail piece back in the mold, and pour the main color. I may cut tails for about 10-20 baits, the pour the main color.
  21. Sent in my first order with them. 5.75" cut tail worm. Anyone have any experience with the company? I probably should have asked first. LOL. Looks like quality made stuff. Looking forward to getting it in, and pouring my winter away. I like some of their other stuff as well, mainly the core shot stickbaits. But pricey! As always, too much month left at the end of the money,
  22. Ordered the 731 creaw from BTS Single cavity. If its the one I want I can order another as it would still come out the same as a two cavity mold. Now I' have to make a laminate plate.
  23. Thats pretty much the lureworks type. I even mixed plastic in a small jar with the hardener and shook the snot out of it, mixed into my pouring plastic and stirred some more, then stirred some more began heating, stopped, heated more stirred, and I still got lumps. even heated slow. I also poured a few dozen wacky worms the other day, and I though they were too soft. I bagged them today. What a difference once fully cured. It doesnt help either that I have two bottles of something that its contents took the writing off off the bottles. Turns out their both softeners. One sinking. Bai
  24. a little pricey ( all their molds are ) but they do have some great stuff. Its a half inch shorter and I know there is a cnc mold out there 3/4 inch shorter, for half price. I dont mind spending but I'd want to be sure of the closeness of the finished bait. If I could get my hands on sample baits poured from both mold makers to compare it would definitely help. Body contours, weight action etc.
  25. Soooo. since I can't find the kut tail worm mold, I was thinking of trying to make my own. Am I to understand that the silicone can hold up to the high temps for pouring plastic? And how does this stuff pour? is it a thick stuff, is it a liquid? Seems easy enough to make the mold 'cept my art ability sucks.
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