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Glideb8 last won the day on August 21 2020

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  1. I used way more drops and it was fine. I basically put around 1 tbs in there for 8 oz of plastic to be safe lol. I've reheated several times and no yellowing. It was kind of worrying me because the stabilizer that I was using is orangish. But yeah, I've been using the yellowed/orange plastics for dark colored baits.
  2. Good to know. I used KBS a while back and although it was easy to use, I got bubbles in places and it started going off and gelling at the top of the jar I had it in even though I sealed it and took a lot of steps to prevent that from happening. Haven't bought another container of it. Thanks!
  3. What kind of auto clear do you use? The main reason why I never wanted to mess with it was the toxicity. Even though I have a good respirator, I really want to be cautious if I'm going to use it.
  4. I was thinking about Spraymax 2k, but I didn't want to have to use the entire can of clear within 48 hours. With Tamco, I can measure out how much I need.
  5. I was thinking of using this to clear some swimbaits because the clear needs to be really thin. This is a door hinge swimbait, so I can't have any thick epoxy interfering with the door hinge. I've already tried a very thin coat of BSI 20 and even that was too thick and the door hinge didn't work properly like I thought. Anybody else using this? I was thinking of buying a spray gun at Home Depot or Lowes just so I didn't have to use my main airbrush to spray it. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
  6. I know the dent is from the plastic cooling, but I couldn't figure out why it was happening. I'll try the cooler temp, but I was also going to try to just pour it into the mold to see what happens. My only concern with just pouring is that the fins won't be formed. I figured the runner might be the issue, but the thing is, the nose of the bait is about the width of the circumference of the runner, which is 1/4". I actually cut some of the mold out to make the runner a bit larger. I don't want the nose of the bait to looked hacked up when I have to cut the sprue off and eventually sell th
  7. Hey there, I've made several injection molds for a swimbait that I've designed(along with a creature bait mold) and I keep having this problem no matter what I'm trying. I tried pushing plastic fast, slow, medium, holding pressure, keeping the injector in the injection hole until I see all air bubbles pop out of the vent holes, then I top off the injection hole, etc. I keep getting an air pocket close to where I'm injecting the plastic from my injector. I have a 6oz injector now, so running out of plastic isn't the issue. I've included a crude diagram to show what I'm talking about.
  8. Not really close to the same thing because that Teckel Sprinker frog has hooks on top and it's basically weedless while the tail is like a whopper plopper tail and creates the same topwater action.
  9. Sorry, forgot to mention that. I was heating about 8oz of MF.
  10. I bought more stabilizer and tried the MF SW I had again.... I put in 5 drops just to see if the plastic would still yellow. Heated it up, perfectly clear before it started to turn clear. When it started to turn clear, the plastic still yellowed.
  11. I get the same thing. I have a gallon of M-F that's 3 years old and it's perfectly clear to start with, but when it gets close to pourable temperature, the whole thing turns yellow like I put yellow color pigment in it.
  12. Thanks for your detailed response!
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