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Sudd

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Posts posted by Sudd

  2. Crankbait lips

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    4 minutes ago, bladesandbaits said:

    Contact Joey at Blademaster Lures.

    He owns Suddeth and still makes the "Little Earl" Crankbait (which that is what your bait is isn't it?) He may sell you a few.

    I reworked his masters and molds not long ago and was at his shop the other day he has a load of Little Earl Lips.

    Regards,

    John Prior     

     

  4. Crankbait lips

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    8 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said:

    He makes a bait that is designed specifically around that style of lip.  

    True, it would be hard for me to make my own unless I had the mold that my uncle's had when they had the company. It's very expensive to have a mold made.  But Lure parts contacted me back. They have my back. They can put a rush on my lips if I need an order quicker.

    • Like 2

  8. Crankbait lips

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Places to get deep diving Crankbait lips? Not the typical lureparts, Barlow, Netcraft. I'm needing lips with the round shaft on the end and has the line tie in the Lip. I usually get from lureparts but they stay out of stock a lot, so I'm trying to find a backup suppliers.

  9. Clear Coat for lacquer painted baits

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, Chuck Young said:

    If you hang it by the nose, and put a piece of wire in the tail eyelet, the drip will go down the wire and the eye will not clog. Also with a smooth bait, one coat may look good. But the protection won't be as good. You will really see that when you coat a bait with a deep scale texture. You can still feel the scale texture through one coat.  

     

     

    Yeah I was wondering what I could do to keep my hook hangers clean from clogging.

  13. Clear Coat for lacquer painted baits

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    On 1/10/2018 at 4:02 PM, Anglinarcher said:

    LOL, but you know we want to see how it looks in the end.

    Here is one I made for myself and i used it to test the KBS. I must say it is some good stuff! This is just one coat. I dipped it one more time to see if there are much difference. I may only need to use one coat but we will see.

    20180111_132950.jpg

    • Thanks 1

  14. Clear Coat for lacquer painted baits

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, Hughesy said:

    I buy a tall skinny glass, like a 6 inch shot glass. Holds like 3 oz or so. When I'm done dipping, I cover the top with clear plastic wrap and secure it with a rubber band. After a week or 2, I get a very thin skim coat at the surface which is very easy to remove and start dipping again. Your 4 oz can will fill it up

    Ok Yeah I thought about trying to find a skinny glass container that's just big enough to put the bait down in. I want to use this 4oz up before I purchase a bigger can of it.

    • Like 1

  17. Clear Coat for lacquer painted baits

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    On 1/8/2018 at 12:40 AM, mark poulson said:

    Just be sure to make a small enough test piece that you can dip it into the 4 oz bottle.

    Paint up a dowel, or a pencil, something that you can dip.

    I've been told the stuff has fumes, so be sure to use ventilation, and be careful.

    I think the directions say it needs to cure for four days,or something like that.  Whatever it says, follow those directions, so you'll really know how that stuff works.

    I'm wondering if I would come out better with the aerosol can, and spray it on? It would be cheaper plus you wouldn't have the storage issue to worry about. What would be the advantage of dipping and hanging over the spray can and hanging?

  18. Clear Coat for lacquer painted baits

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    55 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

    I  bought some KBS  two months ago, but haven't used it yet, because it's too cold to dip outside, and I don't want to try it indoors.

    If you're dipping a lot of baits, I don't think storage will be as much of an issue as it is for those of us who only dip one or two, because you'll probably use it up long before it goes bad.

    I bought a quart, and 4 oz of their thinner, plus a spray can of bloxygen.  I decanted it into a mason jar, sprayed the bloxygen against the inside of the jar for two seconds, and then sealed the lid, with a layer of plastic from a baggie over the jar's mouth, to keep it from sealing itself.

    Why not do the same?  Buy a quart, the thinner, and the bloxygen, and do some testing.  I know it's hard to spend money on a "may work", but the people here on TU who have given you advice are pretty smart, very experienced, and worth believing.

    I'm not saying there won't be a learning curve.  I've had my KBS for two months, and just screwed up the courage to decant it.  It's a good think I didn't wait much longer, because the lid was a bear to get off the can.

    But you'll have a learning curve with whatever you wind up using.

    You have already got your baits built and painted.  That's the hardest part,

    You can do this.  Take a shot!

    Ok Thanks, I just ordered 4oz of clear and the small bottle of thinner from KBS. I got the small 4oz can so I could just try it that way won't be any left after testing it. I have full quart jars of some clears sitting cause I can't use them.  Now if this stuff works then I can purchase the bigger quantities. Hopefully this is what I'm looking for and I can stop the experimenting and stay with the KBS diamond clear.

  19. Clear Coat for lacquer painted baits

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    25 minutes ago, BobP said:

    Dick Nite S81 is used by Dick Nite in his spoon production business to topcoat lures painted with his lacquer colors.  He dips.  The problem with S81 is it will begin to moisture cure in its storage container pretty soon after dipping introduces moisture into the can.  As a hobby builder,  I’ve never been able to keep a can liquid for more than 6 months when dipping.  Maybe you could depending on your production volume.  KBS is also a MCU.  TUers report that it doesn’t cure in storage as fast as Dick Nite and there is also a solvent you can add to a can if it does.  Use the search function to explore application techniques and storage of both these MCUs.  There have been a ton of posts on both.  Personallly, if I were producing baits in quantity I would choose dipping in MCU as the fastest and easiest way to give customers a durable and attractive product.

    So Bob you think the KBS would be a better choice? This is something I'm having to experiment with. And it gets expensive. I want one that is durable and glossy. I can't brush epoxies cause of the amount of baits I have to make at times. I just want to find one I can start using and keep using.

  22. Clear Coat for lacquer painted baits

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    16 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

    I am a carpenter, not a paint chemist, but this is what I've learned from years of working on jobs where lacquer paints were used.

    Lacquer thinner is a hot solvent, very volatile and reactive.  It has a whole host of ingredients that are pretty strong, depending on the brand of thinner you buy.  Some form of  it is the solvent in lacquer paints.

    Lacquer paint is easily dissolved by the next coat of lacquer paint, because of the lacquer thinner solvent in the  paint.  That's what makes those paints blend together so well, because they are actually melting together a little with each additional coat.

    Lacquer paint flashes off it's solvent fast.   That's why its sprayed almost all the time, so multiple thin coats can be applied quickly.

    That's also why the second coat of lacquer paint, if sprayed on, doesn't mess up the first coat, because the solvent leaves before it can melt the coat beneath it enough to ruin it.

    If you want to use a lacquer clear coat, you will have to spray it.  Brushing just remelts the paint under it.

    If you don't want to spray your top coat, I'd look for something like an acrylic (non-lacquer based) clear that you can dip and hang.  

    Paint up some test pieces, instead of actual painted baits, to test your different  top coat options on, until you find one that works without ruining the paint job.

    You can contact the paint manuf. to see what they recommend.

    You can also go into a real paint store, like Dunne Edwards, and ask the people there.

    Or someone here on TU, who actually has experience with spraying lacquer, can chime in and help you.

     

    Thanks, yeah 99% of the time I have been using the minwax polycrylic. But it's pretty soft and doesn't give the high gloss shine. I thought about airbrushing that brushing lacquer clear, but wasn't sure if I could. Would it need to be thinned or just put it in paint cup and spray?

  23. Clear Coat for lacquer painted baits

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    On 10/26/2017 at 9:16 PM, Sudd said:

    Wow I tried brushing lacquer today as a clear coat and my paint started coming off!! Can't use that stuff! Looks like I may just start using d2t and put it on with a brush and let hang dry. This is business production so I have to use something good but not real expensive.

    And this was over lacquer paint which makes NO sense!

    Anyone know why this would have happened? Just thought I would see if anyone would know. It didn't make sense to me, and I haven't used it since. I've got a whole can just sitting there.

  25. Airbrush safety

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    16 minutes ago, Saugerman said:

    I kept looking at your set up, and scratching my head. Glad you said something about the picture being turned side ways. 

    Lol yeah the hood is straight across in front of the window

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