snapshotmd

Just curious, which way do you usually remove your airbrush needle for cleaning? Through the front end, or the back? I usually pull it out through the back, but then I started seeing several videos where the needle was pulled out the front.

For some reason, it is always on the same cavity. The mold I'm using has two 1/2 oz cavities, and two 1/4 oz cavities. The cavity that consistently does not fill correctly is always the 1/4 oz one by the hinge; the other 3 cavities fill fine. What I do is I put the blanks in the mold, put the mold on the cast iron pot for about 30 secs to 1 min, then I ladle the lead, put it up to the pour hole, then rotate the mold and ladle together to pour. The mold itself gets pretty hot; if I hold the aluminum for about 5 secs, it gets too hot to hold. What if I opened the pour hole a little, would that help? Probably not too much, because then the sprue would be harder to break off? Another thing is the ambient temp I was pouring in was about 40 degF. I will try the suggestions thus far in my next molding session. I would go ahead and get it. The cost savings is like 5X! I only have an issue with one cavity. The other version of the mold has only one cavity for each weight. So the upshot is if you had that mold instead, you'd be molding one 1/4 oz bait per pour anyway. Plus, I use the 1/2 oz bait more anyway.

I have a Do-it Vibrating Blade Lure Mold with the 1/2 and 1/4 oz cavities. I cannot get a good pour in the cavity by the hinge. I can get a complete pour on a blank, but if I have the insert in, I cannot. The other 3 cavities give me good molds. Any suggestions on what might be the problem, and how to fix?

Noted. I probably will only use these with jerk baits, so not a big deal. Thanks!

I looked up the A Mart trebles. Very intriguing! Thanks!

Is there anyone who knows about the different variants on these treble hooks? I'm a HUGE fan of the KVD TG76 hooks. I just got some jerk baits and I'm trying to get a Triple Grip style hook to go with it. Right now, I'm using two #4 TG76 w/ #3 rings, which makes the bait have a slow sink. My goal is to have a zero buoyant, or slow rise. I feel the #4 hook size is small for the bait; I'd rather have #2s. I know that the Mustad 36246RB are lighter gauge wire, and might fit this application. The Mustad site has almost no information. Has anyone done research on these and have the specifications on each style/model of Triple Grip hook?

That is a great idea!!! It's low profile and you've just doubled the capacity of my drying cabinet! Thank you!!!

Hello, I'm new to casting and wanted to know if hard lead is a show stopper when it comes to pouring blade baits and jigs. I got some lead off eBay for a good price before learning that soft lead is the stuff to use. The guy I bought it from said it was a BNH 10 or 11. I compared this lead to the stuff I got from smelting old sinkers and I have to press real hard with my thumb nail to make any impression. Right now I'm using a ladle to pour, with a cast iron pot on top of a single burner camp stove. Can I just increase my pot temp and make sure my mold is hot?

I've been getting my baits mainly from a "highly regarded" source from China. I've had a few from a US supplier also. Compared to store bought baits, these blanks I've been getting break, and in turn, leak very easily. These blanks crack almost instantly if they impact anything that's hard. Some of these baits will leak after fighting a landing a 3-lb bass. I've never fished with stuff that's so fragile; it's like fishing with glass lures. I've been considering selling my custom painted cranks, but being so fragile, I can't possibly stand behind my product and stay in business. Has anyone else experienced this? Who are your suppliers? Is there anyway to make these blanks more durable? I'm using BSI epoxy. A thicker coat perhaps?

I normally use the #2 size BPS oval split rings as a line tie to my cranks, However, I cannot find a source to get this size to save $ in bulk. it seems the smallest that I can find is the sort of equivalent to a #3 or #4 BPS, which is 8mm or .32" long. Does anyone have sources other than LPO or Barlow's? ETA: the BPS #2 size is .27" long

Maryland is a liberal state. The closest I'm able to get are halogen bulbs. I'm wondering if I could just use 60W or even a lower wattage. Why do you use a floor thermostat as opposed to a furnace one?

I've been trying to find incandescent bulbs. I'm limited to LED, or Halogen. I hate the Green movement!!! How many 60W bulbs do you use? Just one? I've thought of using two 100W bulbs. ETA: If you mean the 500W halogen bar lights, I agree that it puts out too much heat and I'm scared to death of it. If you mean the bulbs, these are no longer available as a straight incandescent. If the halogen bulb is OK, I'll try that.

I've recently started painting crankbaits and use BSI as a top coat. BSI cures at temps over 70 degF, however, in the winter my basement gets cold. Temps are usually in the upper 50s/low 60s. I'm thinking of constructing a heater with halogen lights, but I'm worried about the fire hazard. Is there an alternative clear coat that I could use that is just as durable as BSI, but has a wider range of temps? I've looked at KBS but I'm concerned about the fumes, and would like brush it on if possible. What other choices do I have.

I only use one AB and that is a Paasche model H. To reduce wasting paint, I paint at least 6 at a time, and multiples of 2; because when I put the epoxy coat on, I could reliably clear 2 baits for each batch. I've found that this is way faster, saves paint, makes the baits consistent. and I have a lot of different styles in the same color to fish with. I'm looking to add a gravity feed brush (Paasche Talon) so that I could get fine detail lines.

I just got my order not too long ago and the eyes I ordered fell off the card and made a mess inside the bag. Emailed them, but no response yet. The deep diver bodies seem OK though.