Matthew P.Paul

Hi gang what make or model of air pump do you use for painting you lures want a good one but don't want to break the bank

what is used to make the wraps translucent is persal silk thread with just the epoxy finish on top no color preserver

here are a couple good blanks at a good price http://www.mudhole.com/70-Medium-Power-OEM-Graphite-Blank-SC84M http://www.mudhole.com/72-Heavy-Power-OEM-Graphite-Blank-SC86H don't know what your fishing for but if it is bass the first is a good fit and anything heavier the second will work unless it is bigol catfish. If you want or need more help just ask or e mail me at us2domore @hushmail.com been building many years

T bird this place offers bulk quantities here is a link don't know if this is exactly your looking for http://www.anglersworkshop.com/Eyes/3-D-Molded-Eyes and they have others if you but 10 pks at a time it seems like a good price . the other place I have bought from is Janns netcraft they do the same more you buy the better the price

you see the difference in the weight even though it isn't a lot just a bit using a scale he syringes eliminate the difference as they are of different viscosity and still occupy the same amount of space that is why using a graduated syringes take the error out of mixing epoxy Flex coat has a couple videos on mixing the perfect batch and they recommend using syringes they make the stuff so why would you want to do it any other way. it is like a pound of sand vs a pound of feathers which one takes up more space. here is a link to Flex coat web learning center lots of good info https://flexcoat.com/learning-center Just a few more things when mixing in a cup roll the cup and hold the stir stick to the side you get like a folding action and your epoxy flows over the edge of the stir stick or spatula and drags the every thing to the side from the middle. the little cups are I get mine at the Pharmacy cheap by the 100 if you get a lot of bubbles in your mix just give it a flick of a bic lighter and I do mean just a quick kiss of flame they instantly pop

I tried both ways and the dip method worked best leveled nicely and you could remove the excess drip if one formed I use the rod dancer on fly rods to finish the wrappings is a tough as the finish on the blank when dry but still flexible so that it doesn't chip or crack. hope that helps. good fishing

there are these 2 coatings gives a light glossy finish doesn't yellow this one is xylene based and has quite a smell recommended to be used with good ventilation does give a thin glossy coat http://www.anglersworkshop.com/Trondak/Trondak-Perma-Gloss or there is this one that is water based urethane based gives a slight vinegar smell have tried this one on Ice jigs and worked as well as the perma gloss http://www.anglersworkshop.com/RodDancer/Threadmaster-One for mixing epoxies for perfect mix you should really use these as the resin and hardener yes are different in viscosity but need to be measured equally for a good hard finish http://www.anglersworkshop.com/Flex-Coat/Flex-Coat-Color-Coded-Syringes

If you have a lure parts on line catalog go to rod building section http://www.anglersworkshop.com/RX6/Rainshadow-RX6-Mag-Bass-and-Multi-Purpose-1-Piece-Blanks considering they make this site possible for us

here is where you can get what you need to build your dryer https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=Synchronous+110v+motor lot of different styles and speeds

what I have done in the past is to use either perma gloss or luma seal ya both are xylene based and have quite an order but dry quickly to touch after applying that I let it cure fully for at least 24 hours then paint over it with automotive dupli color paint and it isn't a bad finish and any of the paint you choose will eventually scratch or chip . even with photo dipped seats they eventually chip and scratch it isn't the paint as much as it is the plastics used to make the seats . or you could always tint the perma gloss or luma seal with marbling powder and apply it being xylene based it will eat in to the plastic of the seat the reason I let it cure for so long. try it and hope you achieve the look you want

heat is the best thing for removing seats if you want to save them just be careful not to heat it to a point there you break down the rod it self the other option is to cut it off with a dermel just score a line from one end to the other and pry it apart

you got a great blank it will make a very good rod will handle 1/4 - 1 oz lures had one that I used for salmon with a spinning reel with 15 lb line cast like a rocket lucky guy