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Brick Steel

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About Brick Steel

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  • Location
    Panama City, Florida
  • Interests
    Hard bait painting and finishing, Bass fishing

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  1. Thanks. I live in Panama City, Florida and paint baits for bass, but I'm interested in doing some baits for speckled trout and redfish. I did repaint a redfish bait for a friend that had gotten pretty torn up. I'll have to see how it has held up.
  2. Troutsupport, are you making baits for speckled trout? How does epoxy top coat hold up?
  3. If you have not already started this, I have a suggestion for stripping the old paint off. Soak some pieces of paper towel in denatured alcohol and then wrap them around the lure. Then wrap the aluminum foil around the lure to seal in the alcohol and keep it from evaporating. I did this with some old baits, including Bomber crankbaits and the original paint just fell right off into the paper towels. On some baits, I had to rewrap with fresh alcohol soaked paper towels because all the paint didn't come off, on the first wrap. This is better and less damaging to the bait then sanding. Some little bit of sanding might still be necessary, but hopefully not much. Pleased don't soak in acetone - it will destroy plastic baits. Good luck!
  4. Good list by Ultimate Predators. Get Bit has a 3.5 li’l jerk that may be what you’re looking for. I bought some and they are actually a little smaller than I like.
  5. I think you are right on your last post. I’ve given up trying to repair broken lips on crankbaits because, like you said, removing the remnants messes up what’s left of the bait.
  6. I used my North American fish handbook to paint sort of a Red Breast Sunfish DT-10. Not an exact match, but I was trying to get close with the colors and proportions...and it was fun to try. I have also used pictures of fish from the internet for some patterns.
  7. I did some stencil experimenting this week. First I cut a couple of stencils with flat material with an Exacto knife and then vacuum formed them. A couple came out okay and a couple had the cuts enlarge (maybe what Desertbird and Whitaker201were suggesting.) So then I cut a few and before vacuum forming them, I used masking tape over the cuttings to seal them and hopefully keep them from spreading. This worked fine. The cuts retained their shape. I think this may work with stencils cut with a Cricut or Silhouette cutter. When vacuum forming like this, one of the challenges of a precut stencil is getting it to line up properly during the forming. This works okay for things like a crappie pattern, but don’t know how it will work for stencils the require more precision.
  8. I am really interested in how this works. I've been cutting stencils by hand after first forming plastic sheets over a blank with a shop vac and heat gun. I then have used a exacto knife and/or Dremel tool to cut out the pattern. I'm pretty limited in what I can do like this. I wonder if when using a stencil cutter (which cuts flat sheets), if those stencils could then be formed over the bait, using the shop vac and heat gun method.
  9. I've had some of that, particularly when I was finishing too many baits at once. I got in a hurry and missed some spots and/or the epoxy was starting to thicken on the last bait. In those cases, I've lightly sanded the bait with 3M pads (after at least 24 hours) and recoated the entire thing with epoxy that I had thinned a little more than usual. They came out fine. I had just tried putting some epoxy over the spots and that didn't do so well.
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