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Brick Steel

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About Brick Steel

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  • Location
    Panama City, Florida
  • Interests
    Hard bait painting and finishing, Bass fishing

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  1. I’ve used both Devcon 2T and BSI 30 minute epoxies. I put them on a bait turner and turn them for eight hours. They are probably cured in less time than that, but I let them turn overnight. I also don’t like to handle for twenty four hours, but after that I’ll put hooks on. I may be overly cautious, but it doesn’t hurt anything. Doing this i’ve never messed up a bait. Also as Danubesalmon said, temperature matters. If you live where it gets cold, curing takes longer in the cold.
  2. I have used both BSI and Devcon 2 ton with good results. Initially I had some issues with the epoxy sometimes being a little lumpy. A couple of things that I do are: I always thin the mixed epoxy with a few drops of denatured alcohol. This helps it spread better and also seems to help bubbles to rise out. After mixing and adding epoxy, I let it set for a minute or two for bubbles to rise. I may be kidding my self, but banging the bottom of the epoxy mixing cup on the table seems to help bubbles to rise. If I use glitter in the epoxy, the presence of the glitter seems to break up bubbles. All that being said, 30 minute epoxy only gives you a few minutes of working time. A mistake that I’ve made is trying to clear coat too many baits at once. I have found that I can do a good job brushing on and spending evenly two baits, before the epoxy starts to cure. When I’ve done three or more, I’ve always had to refinish. When I’ve had gaps or bubbles, I’ve waited 24 hours, then lightly sanded and recoated with epoxy, that I’ve thinned a little more than usual. Also a bait turner is essential. I leave baits on for eight hours.
  3. Thanks. I live in Panama City, Florida and paint baits for bass, but I'm interested in doing some baits for speckled trout and redfish. I did repaint a redfish bait for a friend that had gotten pretty torn up. I'll have to see how it has held up.
  4. Troutsupport, are you making baits for speckled trout? How does epoxy top coat hold up?
  5. If you have not already started this, I have a suggestion for stripping the old paint off. Soak some pieces of paper towel in denatured alcohol and then wrap them around the lure. Then wrap the aluminum foil around the lure to seal in the alcohol and keep it from evaporating. I did this with some old baits, including Bomber crankbaits and the original paint just fell right off into the paper towels. On some baits, I had to rewrap with fresh alcohol soaked paper towels because all the paint didn't come off, on the first wrap. This is better and less damaging to the bait then sanding. Some little bit of sanding might still be necessary, but hopefully not much. Pleased don't soak in acetone - it will destroy plastic baits. Good luck!
  6. Good list by Ultimate Predators. Get Bit has a 3.5 li’l jerk that may be what you’re looking for. I bought some and they are actually a little smaller than I like.
  7. I think you are right on your last post. I’ve given up trying to repair broken lips on crankbaits because, like you said, removing the remnants messes up what’s left of the bait.
  8. I used my North American fish handbook to paint sort of a Red Breast Sunfish DT-10. Not an exact match, but I was trying to get close with the colors and proportions...and it was fun to try. I have also used pictures of fish from the internet for some patterns.
  9. I did some stencil experimenting this week. First I cut a couple of stencils with flat material with an Exacto knife and then vacuum formed them. A couple came out okay and a couple had the cuts enlarge (maybe what Desertbird and Whitaker201were suggesting.) So then I cut a few and before vacuum forming them, I used masking tape over the cuttings to seal them and hopefully keep them from spreading. This worked fine. The cuts retained their shape. I think this may work with stencils cut with a Cricut or Silhouette cutter. When vacuum forming like this, one of the challenges of a precut stencil is getting it to line up properly during the forming. This works okay for things like a crappie pattern, but don’t know how it will work for stencils the require more precision.
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