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Brick Steel

TU Member
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About Brick Steel

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  • Location
    Panama City, Florida
  • Interests
    Hard bait painting and finishing, Bass fishing

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  1. I have been finishing Predator Pop Max Srs and really like the way them. The Predator site says, “Please take extra care when clear coating around the gill slots in the mouth so you do not plug them.” for good reason. I’ve been using 30 minute epoxy top coat and have had some issue with the slits getting epoxy in them and clogging. (I think dipping in KBS would probably be just as bad). Any suggestions for how to keep the top coat out of the gill slits? I have been wondering if there is something that could be put in the gill slits after painting but before top coating, that won't react with either the paint or the epoxy and that then could be removed once the epoxy cures. Would wax work? Could it be gently melted out after epoxy cures? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
  2. Crackle is an old topic on this forum, but I have just started experimenting with using crackle to get a veiny (as in varicose vein) look on some baits. It seems that the crackle works well on a smooth surface and not so well on baits with molded in scales and other features. I've attached two images. One before applying crackle (red, yellow and light blue) and one of the finished product. I am not thrilled with the way the back (top) turned out. It has very little crackling. I realized that the back was a little rough from sanding and not as smooth as the sides and am wondering if that could be the issue?
  3. Experimenting with trying to get a 'veiny' look using crackle
  4. I made the mistake of mixing some Hobby Lobby extra fine glitter in transparent base and trying to spray it thru an Iwata Eclipse airbrush. Yikes! I ruined a nozzle. I’ve returned to just mixing the glitter in epoxy top coat, mixing well, brushing it on and turning the lures on a turner. The only problem I’ve had with this method is when I’ve used too much glitter and it resulted in little bumps in the finish. As long as I don’t use too much, it comes out pretty nice
  5. My setup is very similar to AZ Fisher’s. I cut a blank in half which prevents over wrapping and (for me) eliminates scratching. For a bait that I didn’t want to cut in half, I made a cardboard cut out, half the bait thickness, to set the bait in while vacuum forming. This was pretty successful in forming stencils that didn’t scratch. It’s funny because none of this is very ‘pretty’ but it works
  6. Brick Steel

    Crappie Crank

    The first step was to make stencils, for the spots and Gil plates. I’ve seen several discussions on tackle underground on how to do that. Basically I’ve made a vacuum forming tool by cutting numerous holes in the top of a six inch diameter can. I also cut a hole in the side and sealed a small shop vac wand into that hole. To make a stencil, I lay a bait blank half (I’ve cut some in half along the seam) on the can top (with the holes). I place a piece of craft plastic sheet over it, turn on my shop vac and then heat the plastic from above with my heat gun. The vacuum draws the softened plastic around the bait body. Then I draw the pattern on each stencil (one for each side), with a sharpie and cut out the stencil with my Dremel tool. After cutting I sand, (particularly the inside of) each stencil so as not to mar the paint layers that will go on prior to using the stencils. Prior to painting, I use masking tape to cover the lip on the blank. As far as painting, I airbrush the following: White base all over Pearl white all over Transparent blue lightly on sides and back at tail only Trans green lightly on the face Silver lightly on the sides and back enough to soften the blue and green Gold Very lightly misted on sides and back to get a light champagne color Using a gill plate stencil transparent black lightly just at back Using the spots stencils, transparent black misted on sides Then transparent black down very center of back A little Orange just on throat I apply 6 mm stick on eyes do a top coat of 30 minute epoxy making sure to put the bait on a lure Turner for 6-8 hours All of the techniques I used were based on things I’ve read on tackle underground. The color scheme I made up from looking at crappie I’d caught and a fish field guide.
  7. Brick Steel

    Prop bait

    Wow. That stinks. Our bass numbers took a hit from Hurricane Michael, but seem to be rebounding. I mostly fish the Apalachicola River system and I think that bait would do well on the lower end.
  8. Brick Steel

    Crappie Crank

    My attempt at a crappie pattern
  9. Brick Steel

    Crappie jerk

    I don't think I've seen a jerk bait in a crappie pattern, however I fish a lake that has some nice crappie and some bass that like jerk baits, so I did this. I hope it works.
  10. Brick Steel

    Black Crappies

    really nice paint job!
  11. Brick Steel

    Prop bait

    I like fishing this type prop bait. My favorite is the Cotton Cordell Boy Howdy and this is the closest blank that I've found. I've gotten some with the props already on and some off. The ones with the props off are easier to paint. I like your pattern. It looks like it will catch fish.
  12. I’ve used both Devcon 2T and BSI 30 minute epoxies. I put them on a bait turner and turn them for eight hours. They are probably cured in less time than that, but I let them turn overnight. I also don’t like to handle for twenty four hours, but after that I’ll put hooks on. I may be overly cautious, but it doesn’t hurt anything. Doing this i’ve never messed up a bait. Also as Danubesalmon said, temperature matters. If you live where it gets cold, curing takes longer in the cold.
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