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Brick Steel

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About Brick Steel

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  • Location
    Panama City, Florida
  • Interests
    Hard bait painting and finishing, Bass fishing

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  1. I am really interested in how this works. I've been cutting stencils by hand after first forming plastic sheets over a blank with a shop vac and heat gun. I then have used a exacto knife and/or Dremel tool to cut out the pattern. I'm pretty limited in what I can do like this. I wonder if when using a stencil cutter (which cuts flat sheets), if those stencils could then be formed over the bait, using the shop vac and heat gun method.
  2. I've had some of that, particularly when I was finishing too many baits at once. I got in a hurry and missed some spots and/or the epoxy was starting to thicken on the last bait. In those cases, I've lightly sanded the bait with 3M pads (after at least 24 hours) and recoated the entire thing with epoxy that I had thinned a little more than usual. They came out fine. I had just tried putting some epoxy over the spots and that didn't do so well.
  3. Those baits look great! I think that BSI is far more durable than the finish on retail baits. All the baits that I've done seem to run fine with BSI epoxy. I had some DT-6s which seemed a little heavy (almost neutrally buoyant) but I think that was the blank more than the finish. I do usually thin the epoxy with very little denatured alcohol. It helps it to go on a little better and maybe makes it a little less bulky on the bait.
  4. I’m using all Createx paints and heat setting them. I followed BobP’s advice and had no problem. I had been thinning the transparent base to be brushed on with 4012 reducer. Without reducer, it went on fine.
  5. I used reducer. I’ll give it a shot without.
  6. I hope that I am learning by my mistakes, because I had three complete failures yesterday. I have been trying to get a smoother top coat when using glitter. On a bait, I did as Mark suggested and as I brushed on the transparent base with glitter mixed in - it took the paint right off the bait. I stripped the bait and tried again, but this time before adding the base with glitter, I sprayed on a couple of coats of transparent base, heat set them and then brushed on. Same results - even with a well loaded brush and gentle brush stokes, it took the paint right off. Then I did something really stupid. I tried spraying the transparent base with glitter mixed in through my Iwata Eclipse airbrush. The glitter clogged up the nozzle. I thought that I had ruined the nozzle, but was able to clean it out with a small sewing needle. I normally epoxy baits right after I paint them. I heat set all coats and have not had a problem, but I wonder if I need to let them dry overnight, even after heat setting the paint. Also, I reduced the base coat, which may have contributed to it taking off paint. Thoughts?
  7. I seem to be missing something. All I see is emojis.
  8. What do you mean by “thinned to water”? I thin the epoxy that I have been using with denatured alcohol which makes it go on better.
  9. Interesting comment by All Eyes, concerning white Createx. I’ve been using opaque white as a base for most baits and have had problems with consistency - much more than any other color. I just threw out a bottle because it was so thick, I couldn’t reduce it to useable. I got another bottle and it’s fine. When I got it from Hobby Lobby, I shook it to make sure it was liquidy (new word - you saw it here first). Also appreciate BBK’s comment on the eye dropper. It’s much more controllable and less waste. I usually reduce the paint in the airbrush cup. A couple of drops of reducer first then add paint. My thinking is that I don’t want a blob of un-reduced paint at the bottom of the cup to clog up the airbrush.
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