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Everything posted by BuckeyeFishing

  1. This is also what I do with some of my molds, flukes, stingers and craws mainly. You can get pretty creative hand pouring the bottom and then shooting the top. I have been able to get craws with 4 different color by hand pouring 2 colors on the bottom for the tail and body, a different color for the claws, and then shooting the 4th color for the top of the craw. Its time consuming but you can get some really unique baits. I have never had an issue with them coming apart either. I usually make sure I shoot the injector a little hotter than normal to make sure they bond well.
  2. I have MF non-bleed flo. pink colorant and haven't had any issues with it bleeding. I have done a number of white body/pink tail 2" paddle tails and haven't had a single one bleed. MF non-bleed florescent colors are about all I use if I am making florescent baits. You might have to use a few more drops than other brands but i have never had them bleed.
  3. just a quick update about my BTS mold. Got a shipping notification Thursday, 16 business days depending on how much got done around Easter. So mine was at the low end of the 14-26 business days, excited to get the mold and shoot a few.
  4. What size are they? Jacobs Molds has some similar to that. http://stores.jacobsbaits.com/split-tail-1-3-4-12-cavity-mold-3-16-dia-body/
  5. Is this the same as Do-it WB400? I was also reading a post before where there was an issue with these not fitting right, is that issue fixed. I would like to order 1000 but don't want to waste my time and money if there are still issues. Thanks for the input!
  6. I don't have a dual injector so I still mess around with my open pour silicon. I have a swimbait, jerkbait, and paddletail. They were frustrating at first because I wasn't getting the plastic warm enough to flow right. I had to do a ton of trimming and sometimes I wasn't getting the tails to fully pour. With practice I have gotten better with them. There is way more skill required in hand pouring than in shooting injection molds. Some of the best looking baits come out of hand pour molds.
  7. The first baits I ever made, I used plastic molds from Jann's. They are the type where you pour your plastic in a reservoir and there is a plastic plunger you use to "inject" the plastic. They worked fine but are tedious, time consuming, and dented. You had to oil them frequently so the bait wouldn't stick, a lot like stone molds. I don't use them anymore now that I have my aluminum molds and a couple stone molds. The only one I would even consider using is the Ned mold and thats because I haven't gotten an aluminum one yet. Having tried plastic, stone, open pour silicon, and aluminum, aluminum is by far superior.
  8. I am not too worried about it. I will give it to the beginning of May and if I don't hear anything I will send off an email to see the status. I just want the mold before summer since I throw a lot of soft plastic jerk baits during that time for smallmouth in the creeks. I ordered the 4.25" jointed jerk bait mold.
  9. Its up to 14-26 Business Days. I ordered a mold last Monday, just hope to get it by mid-May.
  10. BuckeyeFishing

    Lead Molds and Hooks

    Did you get my PM?
  11. Shoot me a pm with your email address and I will forward to you
  12. I put mine in a toaster oven set at like 150-200 degrees. I only leave it in for a couple minutes and also pre-heat my molds that way to. Work awesome in the winter when the garage is in the 30s-40s.
  13. Awesome, nice to hear they are a quality injector
  14. That cutter looks nice. I would really like to get their 2.75" double dipper tube and that cutter but I just can't make up my mind between that or the ultra molds 3.25" tube that I don't need a cutter for. Pour more tubes and cut tails or pour less tubes and don't have to cut tails. Thats the eternal tube makers question...LOL
  15. The only issue I have had with my stone molds is that the runners are really small. On one mold, the runner is literally the size of a 1/8th oz slip sinker. There is not much waste in their molds as far as extra stone material. If I shoot too hot, the baits will dent because their isn't enough of a runner to pull from, these are top injected swim baits. Topping off doesn't help because the runner and gate freeze pretty quickly. These took a little trial and error to dial in consistent baits what wouldn't dent.
  16. I mainly have coloring and glitter from M-F manufacturing, they work well for me. I also have some from Jann's Netcraft. Many people get their coloring and glitter from either lurecraft or Spike-it/Lureworks. Lots of places that make good colors but keep in mind that there are differences between the companies, even when its the "same" colorant. Lots of places to buy plastics too. I have used Do-It, Bait Plastics, and Dead On Plastix. All three have their pros and cons, but Do-It was probably my least favorite.
  17. Trail and error is probably your best bet. Just take note of how much salt you added once you get to the desired effect. Also remember, adding salt will change the color of you bait too.
  18. You can also buy it in a 1/2 pound or 2 oz. for most of their colors
  19. I got a 4 oz injector and would like to pick up some new O-rings. I am not ready to make an order from anywhere so I would hate to just order some O-rings from LPO or some place like that. Can I just pick up some O-rings from Lowes or the hardware store? Anyone know the size that is needed for a 4 oz injector? Do I need high temp O-rings or anything like that? Thanks, Jake
  20. If you get on the facebook group "soft plastic bait makers supply group" there is a guy selling injectors from 4 oz. to 20 oz. They look pretty decent and the price isn't bad, 8 oz $65 and 12 oz is $85
  21. A touch off topic, but I find it sad all the hoops that need to be jumped through in order to sell a couple baits. Small business is supposed to be the backbone of the American economy but when you look into starting one, it sure doesn't feel like they want you to start one or succeed. This isn't just for bait making, but a lot of businesses also. I thought about doing the same thing, sell some jigs and soft plastics. I have a pension where I work but I paid into social security for 15 years prior. If I could get to 30 years in social security I could collect my full pension and full social security when I retire. I thought a little part time side business would be a great way to achieve this. Way too much of a headache for what I wanted to do it for. Good luck!
  22. I thought basstackle used to sell an 8 or 10 oz. It shows it in one of the pictures for their injectors but doesn't have it as an option to buy. You might want to contact them and ask.
  23. Nice looking baits. That might be as good as it gets for your chartreuse. You might be able to get it a little brighter with additional drops of colorant but it will still be transparent. If you want it more translucent you will probably have to add a drop of white or couple drops of yellow to take away the transparency. I picked up a couple LED shop lights from Lowes for my work benches. It made a huge improvement in my lighting issues.
  24. Checked my baits last night, no noticeable difference between 48 hrs and 72 hrs. Even thought the claws like to stick together, in the water they do not and the action is not effected.
  25. I can say mine sat for about 2 weeks before I used it. It definitely separated but didn't hard pack, but it also only sat for 2 weeks. I checked my baits again last night and they continue to improve from the initial pour. Most of the tackiness is gone but I am still concerned that the claws on the craws i poured are gonna stick together while working the bait. Gonna do a test of the action tonight when I get home from work to make sure those claws don't stick together. If they do, I will be going back to Bait Plastics for making craws and grubs.
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